Curling, Crimping & Flat Irons: How To Use

Introduction

In the ‘60s, ironing hair meant using your clothing iron and pressing away until your hair was flat as a board. 

While the finish lasted until you shampooed, it also left your hair weak, dull and damaged.  

(Image of the Conair ShinyTools 4 in 1 iron above & to the side that lets you create 4 different ironed looks with just one iron.  Includes Flat Straightening Plate, Flocked Plate, Deep Wave Plate and Micro-Crimp Plate).

Today, all that’s changed. New technology has created space-age irons that let you curl, crimp, bend, flip, spiral, straighten and create unique designs and shapes.

Note:  There are now hot tools sold on the hair care market that combine multiple plates for multiple actions. One iron can straighten, curl, crimp or create waves.

(Image of the Conair 5 in 1 Tool shown to the side.  Includes 1/2" Spiral Curling Iron, 3/4" Iron, reversible Crimper & Straightener plates & a 3/4" Brush Sleeve attachment).

In addition, thermal protectors are now added to almost every mousse, lotion, styling spray, gel, cream and wax to both help keep the hair healthy and hold the style in place.  Together, these tools put the power in your hands to create whatever style suits your mood—no matter what your natural hair type.

Wanna’ know more? Here’s a rundown on flat irons, crimping irons and curling irons — with pros’ tips to guarantee the perfect finish.

Continued below ↓

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Prep School

Before you iron or crimp, get your locks ready.  

“Styling products are no longer about volume and hold,” says Cyd McCoy, technical education manager for Goldwell USA. “Today, they protect the hair to keep it healthy, shiny and beautiful.” 

For fine hair, McCoy recommends a liquid gel, a light styling lotion or a temporary straightener or frizz buster which offers thermal protection without being stiff or sticky. 

For fine to normal hair, she combines these products with a good shine product. For coarse or curly hair, she adds a good shine wax to actually press in ultimate gloss.

A popular myth is that people with really fine hair should spray it until the desired design is actually ‘cooked’ into place,” says Nuccio Basilisco, co-owner of ESBI Salons in Sterling Heights, MI, and Cleveland, OH. 

“The problem is a hairspray with a lot of alcohol actually enhances the damage and makes the hair more flyaway.” He recommends applying a firm gel at the base and a light mousse on the ends to make hair manageable, without frying it. Then, dry hair before ironing.

Pulling it Straight

Hollywood star like Gwyneth Paltrow have created a demand for super-straight sleek hair, says McCoy. What people tend to forget is that these “It” girls have celebrity stylists working for hours before any public appearance. (Shown above - Conair 1 1/2" metal barrelled flat iron with 20 different temperature settings).

Traditional flat irons are metal, while the newest flat irons are made of ceramics. What’s most important: Purchase an iron with a temperature control.

“Fine hair or color-treated hair needs to be pressed at lower temperatures, while the iron needs to be hotter to press coarse or curly hair,” says McCoy.

Make small partings no longer than the base of the flat iron itself and comb through to detangle. The smaller the partings, the cleaner and straighter each of your sections can be. Then, use a slow pulling motion to get a smoothing, silkening effect.

Depending on your natural texture, you might want to combine a variety of products and techniques.

“I have a lot of long, very curly hair, but it’s also color-treated and very fine,” says McCoy. “When I want to wear it straight, I apply a thermal protector then blow-style over a round brush. Next, I use the flat iron starting at the bottom and working toward the base to get a sleek, very straight finish.” She adds that with super-curly hair, it’s important to get as close to the scalp as possible, then pull the hair straight. A second, quick run through gives the super-sleek finish.

Springing for Waves

Curling irons will be useful for creating texture, notes Basilisco. “Over the past few seasons, we’ve straightened hair in every way possible,” he says. “It’s time to do something different.” Luckily, today’s curling irons offer barrels in a range of sizes and even a range of shapes—from traditional round to the more square shapes that create a Z-pattern to spiral rods that produce undulating waves. (Shown above - Conair Shiny Big Waves with plates to produce gorgeous waves).

Both McCoy and Basilisco note that most people place a curling iron on the ends of their hair and roll it up. However, you need to do the exact opposite.

“The base needs the most heat and the ends need the least,” says Basilisco. “With the traditional approach, you’re basically cooking your ends and not creating enough effect at the base.”

Your best bet: Place the iron about an inch from the scalp, do a half rotation toward the scalp then begin to feed the rest of the hair through the iron as you work down the hair shaft slowly. Use a constant motion of opening and closing the tong as you work down the shaft.

Pressing Your Point

Crimping irons feature a flat plate that lets you press a design into the hair. Some let you change plates for more designs; newest ones even “emboss” stars and shapes into the hair. 

"Crimping requires a pressing motion,” explains McCoy. “You start at the scalp, do a press up and a lift down. It pays to practice until you can start and stop equally. 

“Crimping lets you get really artistic and express your personality in myriad shapes from a waffle finish to a zigzag pattern,” says Basilisco. “The downside is that wherever you crimp your hair, you create a weak area right at that point, so work quickly.”

The bottom line: Using curlers, crimpers and straighteners requires practice to get the look you want. If you’re unsure of what to do, ask your hairstylist for a lesson.

Iron Clad Facts

If you’re ready for a “hot” new style, just remember these basics:

1. Select an iron that lets you control the temperature.
2. Usually, the higher the price, the more options the appliance provides.
3. If you use an iron daily, invest in a quality product. The heating elements will last longer.
4. Apply a thermal protector before ironing. Check out salons, drug stores and beauty supply stores to find one that’s right for your hair type.
5. Use the iron as soon as it reaches its optimum heat.
6. The base needs the most amount of heat; the ends need the least.
7. Experiment with different irons and have fun styling your hair. Today, any texture goes. Straight one day, wavy the next, crimped and funky for a fun night out.

Remember that with any hair care tool practice makes perfect.

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