Thermal Reconditioning:
A Practioner Gives The Inside Scoop |
| Karen Marie Shelton |
| Revised Date: 10/17/07 - Original
Publication Date: 3/20/2002, |
Introduction
 |
|
Marissa Jaret
Winokur
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Tasting Auction
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DailyCeleb.com
All Rights Reserved |
No doubt
about it, many naturally curly folks, given half a chance, will trade
in their ringlets for a walk on the straight side. Although most curly girls and guys love their Mother Nature
inspired corkscrews, sometimes they just want a different look and a
temporary break from daily curly hair wrestling.
The quest
for chemical straightness has been the frizzy hair battle cry for
decades. Hoping to
temporarily ditch uncontrollable curls, many mop tops have subjected
their strands to everything from the traditionally harsh chemical lyes
to the current day ammonium thyoglycolates.
Although the modern relaxers and home treatments made by
Phytotherathrie and Rusk are much less invasive then the traditional
methods, they still require the use of temporary straighteners and
blow dryers to get perfect sleekness.
Note: To check out
PhytoRelaxer Index 1 or
PhytoRelaxer Index 2 visit the HairBoutique.com Marketplace.
Enter
Japan based Yuko
Systems with their patented Thermal Reconditioning process based
upon the principles of restructuring hair’s protein bonds. This hot
new curl busting process has taken the hair world by storm.
This
natural cornstarch-based hair relaxing system utilizes a more gentle
form of ammonium thyoglycolate free of the traditional relaxing waxes
or lyes along with special straightening irons.
Developed in 1996 by Ms. Yuko, the system was designed to
create a non-coating, straightening system that uses the heat
oxidation process to seal in and rebuild hair from the inside out
through a combination of patented chemicals and irons that reach 356
degrees to achieve sleek and silky straightness.
The
majority of good Yuko candidates emerge from the treatments with
almost perfectly straight strands that can last for many months
between touchups. Even
better, the Yuko System promises long term freedom from straightening
irons and hours wrangling with hot styling tools.
A
Report From A Yuko Practioner
 |
|
Marissa Jaret
Winokur
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12-03-06 |
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All Rights Reserved |
I recently
received great feedback about the Yuko process from a kinky haired
Hairboutique.com visitor who had traveled from Nashville, Tennessee to
the Dominic Michael salon in St. Louis, Missouri to have her hair
treated by Amy Reed.
The majority of the current 20+ Yuko certified stylists (see salon
list at the end of this article) are located in either the Los
Angeles or New York areas. Amy has the unique advantage of
being the only stylist in the Midwest that is currently certified in
the Yuko thermal reconditioning process. As a result of her
convenient St. Louis location Amy has many clients travel from out
of town to receive the treatment.
Note:
Amy is also very gifted working with naturally curly and long hair.
When I
contacted Amy by phone she agreed to chat with me about her
experiences with the Yuko thermal reconditioning treatment.
Amy could
not say enough great things about the thermal reconditioning process
even though it is “very time intensive and requires a demanding
hands-on process.”
She has worked with other relaxing systems in the
past but Amy confessed that she was not all that impressed with
previous results that left “the client’s hair feeling thick and
bulky and just not quite right”.
Compared to her work with previous products, “the Yuko
System leaves her client’s hair smooth, silky, sleek and soft”.
When Amy
first read about the revolutionary Yuko Systems training program in a
issue of InStyle Magazine “she was eager to immediately take the
training and get certified”. In August of 2001 she made her way to
Beverly Hills, California to the Yuko Systems US headquarters for full
training in the thermal reconditioning process.
Amy loves
the opportunity to make a difference for her frustrated frizzy haired
clients and has been
doing the thermal reconditioning treatments ever since she completed
her coursework in California.
Amy
reported that “the folks at Yuko Systems did a great job with
training. They also do a
very good job of helping her and their graduates with ongoing full
support as well as offering advanced training”.
Amy is “comfortable with the fact that whenever she
encounters a question or problem during a treatment she can pick up
the phone and receive immediate help from the folks at Yuko”.
Best
Candidates
 |
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While the
Yuko system provides great results, not every head of hair is a good
candidate for the treatment. All of Amy’s prospective local
customers are strongly encouraged to schedule a pre-treatment
consultation to determine the probable results for their hair.
Out-of-town clients are required “to send advance hair
snippets and close-up photos” so that Amy “can determine in
advance if they are a good candidate for the treatment.
This prevents everyone from “wasting unnecessary time and
money”. Amy has had to
turn away prospective clients because she did not feel that their hair
would benefit from thermal reconditioning.
Since Amy is dedicated to “working only with clients who have hair
that will respond well to the thermal reconditioning process”
sometimes she has to “turn away prospective clients”. “The
treatment is time-consuming and expensive”. As a result, Amy
definitely “wants her clients to be happy with the results”.
Working only with the right hair candidates is one way of helping to
guarantee client bliss.
The ideal
candidate for Amy “has fairly healthy, chemically virgin hair, that
is frizzy, coarse and at least four or five inches long”.
Great
candidates “are the type of people who don’t get great results
from temporary straighteners and generally have to spend hours blow
drying and temporarily straightening their hair every day just to get it to look
decent”. After thermal
reconditioning this same client, according to Amy, “will only have
to spend 5-10 minutes to blow-dry and style their hair”.
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Super
short hair is generally not a good candidate for the thermal
reconditioning process. This
is because the benefits of the treatment will not be as long lasting
on short hair as it is for longer hair.
Yuko System clients with shoulder length or longer hair have
reported the best long term results.
Each person who has the treatment will experience different
results, however, for many people, the effects of the reconditioning
can last up to six months.
The very
best candidates have chemically virgin hair that has not ever been
colored or processed in any way.
Unfortunately most women have some type of chemicals applied to
their hair before they decide to opt for the Yuko system.
While Amy will consider working with people who have color or
other chemicals on their hair, she is still careful about her
pre-selection process.
Some damaged or naturally fragile hair may not respond well to the
treatments. While some stylists will apply the treatment to fragile
or damaged hair, Amy does not generally like to work with hair that
may not withstand the chemicals and the excessive heat from the Yuko
straightening irons. Each stylist is different and may have
different requirements for the type of hair they feel comfortable
working on.
More
About The Process
Thermal reconditioning is not a simple process. As Amy
pointed out “most hair consumers have never seen anything like it
before”. Because of the time commitment involved, Amy only
schedules four or five thermal reconditioning treatments per week on
her lightest work days so that she can give her client her total
focus.
Depending on hair length, thickness and overall condition the
thermal reconditioning process can take anywhere from three to six
hours to complete.
The Yuko
thermal reconditioning treatment uses heat to restructure the hair’s
protein bond resulting in smooth, straight, shiny and sleek hair.
The system is protein-based and uses special Yuko patented
straightening irons set at very high heat to seal in moisture once the
hair’s cystine bond is broken, allowing the hair to be
straightened. Heat actually consolidates the entire
straightening process.
Step-By-Step
Thermal Reconditioning
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Amy
explained that it is impossible to describe all of the individual
steps that occur during a thermal reconditioning process.
This is because even though Yuko recommends a series of
processing steps, each practitioner is encouraged to custom fit the
steps in the process to the individual hair needs of each customer.
One thing
is certain, all customers receive two different applications of
chemicals and their hair is flat ironed at least twice.
Of the two chemicals applied, one is the protein bond busting
chemical formula while the other is a special Yuko chemical
neutralizer. The
chemicals remain on the hair for various time lengths ranging from 5
to 20 minutes, again depending on the texture and condition of the
hair. The chemicals are
applied at different points during the multi-step reconditioning
process.
Yuko
manufactures two different patented heat irons that hold a patent.
Some thermal reconditioning specialists use both irons, which
consists of a small and large iron, while others only use just one of
the irons. Again, this is
based on individual stylist preferences.
During the reconditioning
process the Yuko iron is applied to individual sections of the entire
head of hair. Each
section is approximately 1/8” thick.
Depending on the thickness and length of the hair, this can
take a long time to complete. The
Yuko irons heat up to 356 degrees.
Depending on the condition of the hair, the stylist may use
various heat settings on hair that ranges from wet to dry.
The last
step in the process involves a second ironing of the hair after it has
been completely dried with a blow drier.
At this point the thermal reconditioning process is complete
except for the required after-care steps.
After
Care
The most
critical after-care factor is keeping the hair 100% bone dry for a
minimum of 48 hours after the process is completed.
This can be challenging in terms of bathing but it is essential
that this rule be strictly followed.
The hair must remain 100% dry.
Carry an umbrella everywhere to make sure.
You must
use the Yuko recommended products to maintain your straight hair.
Amy reports that “the after-care conditioner that comes with
the Yuko system is absolutely incredible”.
The
thermal processing after-care hair products include:
-
Shampoo
-
Conditioner
-
Blow
Dry Essence
-
Shine
Spray
Challenging
Side Effects
One of the
rare complaints with the thermal reconditioning treatments is that the
hair may feel dry as a result of the chemicals. Whether hair is relaxed the traditional way or the Yuko way,
it generally requires post-treatment deep conditioning and
moisturizing on a regular basis.
The Yuko post-treatment products are designed to counter any
drying effects. If you need an extra moisture dosage, ask your stylist to
recommend a deep conditioner that you can use in conjunction with the
Yuko products.
Maintenance
For the
majority of people, their hair remains perfectly sleek and straight
until curly re-growth appears at the roots. While there is always an
exception to every rule, once hair is straightened chemically it
remains straight until the roots grow to a certain point. Depending on
your hair, treatment need to be repeated every three to nine months if
you wish to retain the straight look.
If you
decide to repeat treatment it is advisable that you return to the
stylist that performed the last thermal reconditioning process.
Not only will the stylist be familiar with your hair and
condition, they will make sure to only apply the chemicals to the root
re-growth and not over previously treated hair.
The
Cost
So what
does all this shiny sleekness cost?
Like everything else in the hair world, the cost ranges wildly
depending on the location and the needs of your hair.
The price can range anywhere from $500 all the way up to
$1,000+ depending on the condition and amount of time it takes to work
with your hair. Be sure
to always get a cost estimate during your evaluation consultation to
make sure that you don’t suffer checkbook shock after you have
already had the treatment applied.
Is the
treatment really worth all the time and money? Salon professionals along with curly haired men and women
rave about the Yuko process. If
you dream of a life of stick straight locks, thermal reconditioning
might just be worth it for you too.
For
More Information
Contact Amy Reed through the
Dominic Michael Salon at 314-721-4230.
Salons
With Yuko Certified Practioners (As Of January 2003)*
*To get a
current list of certified stylists or more information on the Yuko
system, call the Yuko Systems Salon in Los Angeles at 310-550-8850 (877-YUKO-SYS.)
Yuko is at 351 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA. 90210.
Note:
The information in this article was correct at the time of original
publication. HairBoutique.com makes no guarantee to the timely
accuracy of this list. For an updated version contact YUKO at (877-YUKO-SYS).
California
Salons
*YUKO
Salon & Shop
(Originators of YUKO System)
351 North
Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA. 90210
(877-YUKO-SYS)
Los
Angeles Area
Artistic
Gallery
141 North Atlantic BLVE #109
Monterey Park, CA. 91754
626-576-8838
Ben
Artistic
Gallery
(Second Salon)
18750 Colima Road #A-2
Rowland Heights, CA 91748
626-913-8828
Estetica
9635 Brighton Way
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-274-1553
Ana
European Hair Institute
3140 Bear ST #250
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714-850-9993
Gene
Bailey
Los Angeles Stylist
Note: Gene
personally trained the staff at John Barett in New York
City.
323-359-7170
email Gene at:
You_Go_Straight@msn.com
Hair By
NHC
15909
#D
Gale Avenue
Hacienda Heights, CA 91745
626-330-0055
Nob
Han's
Beauty Salon
407 West Imperial Hwy
Brea, CA. 92821
Ask For Agustin
714-529-8988
ID4U2000@aol.com
Mary’s
Beauty Spot
1600 Potrero Grande Drive #6
Rosemead, CA. 91770
626-571-1513
Mary
Manage A
Trois
8822 Burton Way
Beverly Hills, CA 20211
310-278-4420
Gene
Salon
Gregorie's
200 Newport Ctr. Dr.
Newport Beach, CA 92660
949-644-6671
949-735-7416
Drew
Salon
Mirror Mirror
148 S. Solana Hills Drive
Solana Beach, CA 92075
858-794-0372
Yuki
Sharoni
9960 Little Santa Monica Boulevard
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310-282-5440
*YUKO
Salon & Shop
(Originators of YUKO System)
351 North
Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA. 90210
(877-YUKO-SYS)
Palm
Springs
Area
Miko's
Day Spa
285 N. Pala Canyon Drive
Palm Springs, CA 92262
760-320-6884
Miko or Ken
San
Diego Area
Jet
Rhys Hair
3846 Fifth Ave.,
San Diego, CA 92103
619-291-7511
Three Yuko stylists available.
www.jetrhys.com
2nd Street Salon
San Diego, CA
Ms. Crystal Well
760-753-4424
Note: Crystal is a
wonderful hair master & also specializes in dealing with long
hair.
admin@2ndstsalon.com
Detour Salon
San Diego
760-634-1999
admin@detoursalon.com
San
Diego/Mission Valley
504 Hotel Circle North
San Diego, CA 92108
619-295-5796
Carolejt@prodigy.net
Salon
Salon
6236 San Dieguitto Road
Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067
858-756-0082
Stacey Prida
San
Francisco Area
Patrick
Evan Salon - New Information as of 2/1/04
Patrick Evan
San Francisco, CA
415- 421-1111
patrick@patrickevan.com
Call or email for more info.
Visit Patrick's excellent website at:
http://www.thermalreconditioning.com/
Toshi
Union Square Salon
166 Geary St.
San Francisco, CA 94108
415-956-4667
Toshi
Florida
Harvey C. Salon
111 S. Olive Avenue
West Palm Beach, FL 33401
561-832-2944
Vincent J. Salon
3301 NE 33rd Street
Ft Lauderdale, FL 33309
954-566-6601
Vincent J
vincentj@vincentj.com
Georgia
Halo
Salon
3165 E. Shamowlawn Drive
Atlanta, GA 30305
404-816-0005
James Wright
Hawaii
CHOP
500 Ala Moana Blvd Space 2G
Honolulu, Hawaii
96813
808-585-7400
Kihan
Maryland
La Clinica
1624 York Road
Lutherville, MD.
21093
410-828-7464
laclinicadayspa@aol.com
Jayne
Zoe
Salon & Spa
701 Russell Avenue
Gaithersburg, Maryland 20877
301-921-8801
Lakeforest@zoesalon.com
Massachusetts
Beaucage
71 Newbury St
Boston, MA
02116
617-437-7171
Dean
Missouri
Dominic Michael Salon
8220 Forsyth Street
St. Louis, MO.
63105
314-721-4230
Amy Reed
Nevada
Roni
Josef International Salon & Spa
10050 South Eastern
Suite 120
Henderson, NV 89052
702-217-8296
Maggie
maggie@stylefan.com
New
York
Bumble & Bumble
212-521-6500
John Frieda Salon
NYC
212-879-1000
Ty Holbrook
ty@angelfire.com
John Barrett Salon
754 5th Avenue
New York, NY 10019
212-872-2700
Tara Gonzalez
Texas
Nasrin Salon
3401 Airport FWY #108
Irving, TX. 75038
972-252-1332
Nasrin
London
YUKO SALON Unit 2,
1 Curzon st.,
London W1Y7FN
(011-44-207) 629-7555;
FAX (207) 629-7778
Canada
Anju
Instyle Hair Care Salon
8296 120th Scott Road
Surrey, BC
V3W3N4
(604) 543-5993
Additional Article Revision Dates: 6/18/2002,
1/3/2003, 2/1/2004, 4/4/2006 |