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Anatomy Of Creating Curls

Introduction

Pin curls are one of the most basic type of curls that has been around for years. Not only has it been used for a long time, this popular type of curl cycles back into popularity on a regular basis.

Although pin curls can be used to curl an entire head of hair they are more often used to curl much smaller sections of a hairstyle. Pin curls are also often used as "fill in" curls for an overall look.

Fill in curls are used in the areas between shaping that frame the face and run around the crown. They are ideal for creating fluffy bangs. They are also used for just the ends of the hair to unify an overall curl.

Pin curls are always created on damp hair (newly shampooed or misted damp with a water bottle) and can be combined with other types of curls for a unique set.

Pin curls are one of the most basic type of curls that has been around for years. Not only has it been used for a long time, this popular type of curl cycles back into popularity on a regular basis.

Skip Waves

The skip wave is a prime example of a wet set that includes pin curls.

A skip wave is a combination of pin curls and finger waves. To do a skip wave place the pin curls in every other finger-wave formation. When finger curls are carefully arranged in rows around the entire scalp in alternating directions they arrange nicely into natural waves.

Pin curls are either forward or reverse which means basically that they are either clockwise or counterclockwise.

Forward pin curls on the right side of the head are formed in a counterclockwise direction. Forward curls on the left side of the head are formed in a clockwise direction.

Creating Pin Curls

To achieve the same uniformity of curl on both sides of the head, the technique used to form a curl on the right side of the head must be mechanically different from that used on the left side. This is because you use the same hand to form curls on both sides of the head. If you are right-handed, you always use your right hand, If you are left-handed you use your left hand.

The procedures described in the following sections are for right-handed people. If you are left-handed, you should use the procedure given for the right side of the head on the left side and vice versa.

Counterclockwise curls are formed away from your body position, whereas clockwise curls are formed toward your body position.

Steps For Creating A Forward Counterclockwise Curl

  1. Part off a section of damp, not wet, hair for the base of the curl. Apply a small amount of styling gel.
  2. Insert the comb across the section strand. Place the index finger of the left hand in the center of the strand and control the ends with the comb and the thumb of the right hand.
  3. Begin to circle the strand forward with the comb while holding the base of the curl with the thumb and index finger of the left hand. Forming the pincurls is a lot like winding a piece of string into a ball.
  4. Use the end of the comb to ribbon, or stretch, the hair forward, turning it in a counterclockwise direction. Be sure that the very ends of the strand are inside the circle.
  5. Hold the formed curl with the index finger and thumb of the left hand and insert a pin curl clip across the curl to hold it in place securely.

Steps For Creating A Forward Clockwise Curl

  1. Part off a section of damp, not wet, hair for the base of the curl. Apply a medium amount of styling gel.
  2. Insert the comb across the section strand. Place the index finger of the left hand in the center of the strand and control the ends with the comb and the thumb of the right hand.
  3. Turn the comb down a quarter-turn forward so that the comb forms a twist at the base of the curl. Forming the pincurls is a lot like winding a piece of string into a ball.
  4. Use the end of the comb to ribbon, or stretch, the hair down along the index finger of the left hand.
  5. Continue to ribbon the curl upward in a clockwise direction to form a circle. Be sure that the very ends are inside the circle.
  6. Hold the circle with the index finger and thumb of the left hand and insert a pin curl clip across the curl to hold it in place securely.

Steps For Creating A Reverse Counterclockwise Curl

  1. Part off a section of damp, not wet, hair for the base of the curl. Apply a medium amount of styling gel.
  2. Insert the end of the comb into the hair at the open end of the shaping and place the index finger of the left hand over the shaping to hold the hair.
  3. Direct the hair back around the index finger and then place the thumb at the base of the curl to bind the hair into a semicircle.
  4. Ribbon the ends, holding the hair at the top of the circle that is formed. Forming the pincurls is a lot like winding a piece of string into a ball.
  5. Place the circle hair down on its base. The ends are looped into the center of the circle.
  6. Insert a pin curl clip through the center of the curl, pinning it from the open ends. This allows the curls to overlap.

Steps For Creating A Reverse Clockwise Curl

  1. Part off a section of damp, not wet, hair for the base of the curl. Apply a medium amount of styling gel.
  2. Insert the comb across the sectioned strand. Place the index finger of the left hand in the center of the strand and control the ends with the comb and the thumb of the right hand. Turn the comb down a quarter turn at the base of the curl. This tightens the curl at the base and prevents the hair from buckling.
  3. Turn the hair up over the index finger and place the thumb of the left hand over the strand of hair to hold it in position.
  4. Now that a circle has been completed ribbon the hair and lock the ends together. Forming the pincurls is a lot like winding a piece of string into a ball.
  5. Place the completed circle over the base. Hold the curl with a clip as the ends are fitted into the center of the circle.
  6. Insert a pin curl clip through the center of the curl, pinning it from the open ends. This allows the curls to overlap. Avoid using bobby pins when possible. They can leave unslightly bumps and dents in the finished curl.

Removing Pin Curls

After you have created the pin curls either let them dry naturally in the air or sit under a hood style dryer until the curls are completely dry. If you in a hurry you can use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment. Be careful to use the blow dryer on a slow speed, medium heat, to avoid overblowing the pincurls.

Once hair is completely dry, allow them to cool. Remove the pins and then use your fingers to gently fluff and arrange. For bigger hair use a brush. Finish with a good application of hairspray for long term hold.

Summary

Pin curls can be used to create a variety of different styles. Pin curls are more of a finishing touch than an entire do - used for the back when the front's in rolls, or to clean up the ends if you've tried finger waves. You could conceivably do your whole head in pin curls (but in that case you're probably better off with small rollers).

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- Revised Publication Date: 05/03/10

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