| Instant Curls: The Pros & Cons of Chemical Texture Services (Perms) |
| Karen Marie Shelton |
| Revised Date; 715/08 - Original Publication Date: 3/26/2002 |
Introduction
 |
|
Nichole
Kidman
2002
Academy Awards |
|
ABC/Craig Sjodin - All Rights Reserved
|
One of the biggest hair trends flexing its muscle at the
2002
Academy Awards was curls. Big curls, spiral curls and all
sorts of curly updos were in abundance. While some of the curly
coiffed celebrities like Sandra Bullock and Nicole Kidman are
blessed with natural ringlets, not everyone is quite so lucky.
When curls return to the
hair fashion scene,
as they do on a regular basis, chemical hair perms are
usually right behind.
For people with
stick straight strands, perms that offer "wake &
shake" instant curls, waves or big texture are a very definite temptation.
Although curls can be temporarily created with a wide assortment of
hook and latch curlers, curling irons or hot
rollers, perms may cut styling time
to the quick. Like everything else in life, options that offer
convenience have pros and cons. Such is the case
with chemical perms.
Are curls really
here to stay? Master Atlanta stylist Bob Steele of The Bob
Steele salon believes "that curls are long overdue".
After all, he pointed out, "all major hair trends come back
around and curls are due their turn". Straight
is boring and it is time for curls to burst forth.
 |
|
Amy Acker
Winifred on Angel
2002 |
|
The WB Television Network - All Rights Reserved
|
Just
like everything else in life, achieving instant curl confidence is
not always as easy as it seems. For some people the perming
experience is a walk in the hair park.
For others, transforming their straight locks into
curls throws them into a series of bad hair days that
make them pine for their lost short, straight strands.
How
do you adopt the new curl intelligence without getting burned?
Research, research, research.
New
Name & New Image
If you haven't had a perm since you were getting ready for your
First Grade dance recital, you might be in for a big shock if you
decide to shop for a perm.
Most stylists have
ditched the term "perm" for chemical texture
service or other marketing terms designed to dispel consumer perm
phobias. Hairdressers also want consumers to believe that they
have dumped the harsh chemicals and noxious
odors of perms from the 50s and 60s. But have they? Maybe,
maybe not.
 |
|
Keri
Russell
as
Felicity Porter |
|
The WB
Television Network - Jeffery Thurnher
All Rights Reserved |
To try and lure consumers back to the chemical perm
salon cash cow, perm companies have created "new
chemical formulations" that are mixed with a range of
new ingredients including herbs, natural ingredients and
essential oils.
Some hairdressers add so-called conditioning oils to
the perm mixes with the claim that it will protect hair
from the chemicals.
Salon owners and hairdressers are also touting
maximum flexibility of wave and curl creation by
offering new rolling patterns, techniques and perm rods.
Hair manufacturers discovered in the mid-90s that newly empowered
hair consumers demanded a more efficient, streamlined, healthier
perm process. They were also unwilling to suffer through
months of damaged and burnt strands from harsh perm chemicals or
faulty application techniques.
Hair consumers were more pressed for time. The days
of spending all day in the salon while your perm "cooked"
has been replaced by high tech formulas for optimal hair
texture creation and faster chemical processing.
"Express perms" are only part of the hair
texturing options that are possible in some select salons.
Of course to successfully create new texture in the form
of curls and waves, perms still require the use of harsh
chemicals. Express perms simply leave the damaging
chemicals on the hair for a shorter time period.
New Tools
Even
the perming rods have changed. Depending on the size of
rollers or tools that are used, a hairdresser can entice a hair
customer to have a perm by offering a lot or a little texture.
The rods have changed dramatically to range in all sizes.
Again, a major marketing ploy to drive more salon dollars into the
perm coffers.
 |
|
Keri
Russell
as
Felicity Porter |
|
The WB
Television Network - Jeffery Thurnher
All Rights Reserved
|
It used to be that the
hairdresser had limited options on which rods to use to create
perms. This is no longer true. While one hairdresser may
use one style and size of rods to create your perm, a hairdresser at
the very next station may feel more comfortable with different sized
rods.
Keep in mind that some perm experts have dumped the traditional rubber rods for scraps of
thick carpet, empty juice cans, old fashioned sponge rollers,
aluminum foil, pin
curls, rag rollers and pipe
cleaners. You name it and you can probably find a chemical
texture artist who utilizes some wild curling tool.
A creative hair artist will use just about anything
that works for them to achieve a custom designed texture
and curl that looks natural and beautiful. After
all, the goal is to encourage consumers to have perms,
whatever it takes.
Don't assume that
because your stylist utilizes a certain type of rod that they are
not well versed in the proper rolling techniques. While no two
surgeons use the same exact type of scalpel, no two stylists use the
same tools.
If you have your heart
set on a certain type of rod from your past and your stylist is
unwilling to use that type of rod you may want to terminate the
perming process. Some clients believe that a certain rod is
best for them and their hair. If this is your case and the
stylist wants to use another type of rod then find a stylist that
will support your needs.
Is
A Perm Really Right For Your Hair?
 |
|
Keri
Russell
as
Felicity Porter |
|
The WB
Television Network - Jeffery Thurnher
All Rights Reserved
|
While
a perm is marketed to offer maximum flexibility from a quick toss
and tug to elegant ringlets, perms are not for everyone.
Dallas
based stylist Shelley Pryor warns that "not all types of hair are well
suited for the perming process. Even though many experts
believe that thin or damaged hair can safely survive a perm Shelley
argues strongly with this premise".
Pointing
out that she has helped "repair lots of fried hair from perms
that should never have been performed" Shelley will not agree to
perm anyone's hair "without checking it very carefully".
Even in the very best of circumstances Shelley warns that
"not all people will react well to perms". She believes
this is true "no matter how
carefully you work with their hair, the type of rods that you use or
how much you do your best."
Shelley noted that many people see a great looking perm on
someone else and assume that they can achieve the identical results.
Unfortunately this is a common fallacy in the hair world. Especially
if you are comparing natural curls with chemically induced curls.
Many people make the mistake that a perm can duplicate natural
curls. In the majority of cases Shelley explained that natural
looking curls are easier created from non-chemical
techniques.
Since Shelley has almost perfect naturally curly ringlets she is
often told that her clients want "a spiral perm with curls just
like yours". As Shelley noted, her "ringlets are the
gift of Mother Nature and can not be duplicated through a perm in the majority of cases".
Are
Perfect Curls A Myth?
Although many
celebrities and actresses like Keri Russell have perfectly formed
ringlets, there is a well-known secret behind the perceived hair perfection.
As Shelley explained "even naturally curly hair doesn't
always form the most uniform ringlets".
When natural curls go askew most stylists like Shelley will use a
series of curling irons to create that tight ringlet that looks
effortless, but isn't.
If you are lusting after a perm because you believe
you will have perfect curls, you may not be a good
candidate for a perm.
Why
Do Perms Fails?
Barbara
Lhotan, a senior educator with Paul Mitchell Systems pointed out
that "every great hairdresser has clients that just don't take perms
well". As Barbara explained "it's just a risk that the client
has to be prepared to accept or else they should not even consider a
perm".
 |
|
Melissa
Peterman
as
Barbara Jean |
|
The WB
Television Network - Andrew Eccles
All Rights Reserved
|
Perms
fail for a number of reasons. People on certain types of
medications or with thyroid or other health problems may be
candidates for a botched perm. Many stylists report that
women on birth control pills or hormone replacement medications have
hair that will not take a perm well. Pregnant women or women
who have just given birth are other "problem perm"
candidates.
If
your hair has previously been colored, highlighted, permed,
straightened or otherwise altered, you may NOT be a good
candidate for chemically induced curls.
When it comes to chemical perms
there is no guarantee the treatment will be what you dreamed it
would be.
Keep that in mind as you weigh all perming pros and cons. Never rush
into a perm no matter how spontaneous you are as a person. If
you get a perm and don't like the results you will have to live with
that perm for several weeks unless you surrender to the scissors for
a major chop.
Does
Your Hair Have Permability?
Is
your hair really a good candidate for a perm? It is always
best to work with a stylist in order to get their evaluation of your
hair's porosity and viability for any chemical process, including a
perm.
If
you are unsure whether your hair will do well with a perm solution,
you can do an at-home evaluation.
Check
your own hair for permability by snipping a strand or two of your
hair from a place on your scalp that is not obvious. Place the
strands in a glass of fresh water. If your hair floats there
is a good chance that your hair can survive a chemical
treatment. Floating hair means that the cuticle and cortex
layers are healthy.
If
your hair sinks, the cuticle and cortex may be damaged and could not
withstand a chemical treatment. If the hair is too porous a
perm won't take and color won't stay on the cuticle.
Getting
The Same Look Without The Perm
 |
|
Jessica
Biel
as
Mary Camden |
|
The WB
Television Network - Jeffrey Thurnher
All Rights Reserved
|
Over
the past few years many hairdressers have learned that they can
mimic the similar texture and movement of a curly or wavy perm by utilizing a
great cut combined with fabulous gels, mousses, glazes and molding muds.
Hair extensions and clip-on hair that is already
chemically curled or waved is another hot option without
the damaging heat.
The
good news is that taking the perm-less route to create waves and
curls results in much less damage to the hair.
Many hairdressers who worry about perm damage will offer
their clients a
curly or wavy look created in the salon with hot rollers
or irons. This offers clients something a little
unique that lasts for a day or two until the curl stretches out or the
texture is washed out. With a little training, clients can learn to
recreate the curly looks at home using curling irons, hot rollers
and modern rag rollers..
Granted
the high tech styling products can only go do far. Yes, they
will product curls, texture, flexibility and great shine but the set
only lasts until the next shampoo.
Can
a cut make up for some of the desired chemically induced texture? To some extent it is possible but
again, a great cut can only take you so far. The most brilliantly
executed hair cuts
still can not cause curl or waves to form.
Long
Hair Perm Considerations
If
you have long hair you may want to think long and hard before
subjecting your hair to any type of chemically applied
texture.
Keep in mind that if you spent a long time growing gorgeous long
hair, a less than perfect perm might damage your tresses.
To add desired hair movement, first consider "long hair
friendly" techniques such as rag rollers, pin curls or old
fashioned "under the hood dryer" sets. If those
options don't work, apply a good leave-in conditioner and carefully spot
curl your ends to get more hair body and movement.
 |
|
Alyssa Milano
as
Phoebe Halliwell |
|
The WB
Television Network
Andrew MacPherson
All Rights Reserved
|
Unfortunately it's true that some unsuccessful perms can only be
removed through time or a scissors. Cherish your long locks. If you must apply chemicals, do it carefully and with lots of
forethought.
Hot
Trends In Movement
A popular trend for hair
consumers
is to demand more natural movement and flow from their stylists.
A hair
client with stick straight hair is definitely a challenge to some
hairdressers.
This is because their cuticles have virtually no
natural bend or twist. For those type of clients, the curls
may have to be created from chemical scratch. True hard core movement
may really only be achieved with chemical texturizing in
some cases.
Whereas a curling iron creates
perfect curls, the more spiral results of these techniques mimic the
capricious corkscrews and crinkles of natural hair. All kinds
of hot, Velcro and other types of rollers have become pretty popular
again as a result of the current curls and waves fad. Halle
Berry influenced the return of the finger-wave look in 2001 and
it'ss still going strong in some regions.
Good
Perm Insurance
 |
|
Permed
Ringlets |
|
ARTec
All Rights Reserved
|
If
you have your heart set on a perm and have made peace with the fact
that there are risks, then follow your curl fantasies. It is
important to look for a hairdresser that has significant practice
with chemical processing. If they offer a wide range of perm
options with a range of tools, you know they can help you achieve a
great look.
Whether you have tresses that are healthy, or damaged - long or short
- don't rush into the perm process. Take at least a few
weeks to give it some serious thought before you take the plunge.
Understand that your hairdresser will have their own methods and
techniques that work best for them.
Always be wary of a hairdresser that seems to
pressure you into having a chemical perm or texturizing
service. Ask yourself why there is pressure.
Any hair care treatment that you undertake should be at
your own discretion.
If your perm doesn't turn out as you had hoped then your first
responsibility is to go back to the stylist and ask them to work
with you, no charge, to modify the outcome. Reputable stylists will
always stand behind their work and will either deep condition the
hair to soften the curls or do spot processing to tighten the curls.
There are many ways that perms can be adjusted. Remember
that you will never have a chance to turn a heartbreaking experience into
a happy outcome if you are unwilling to talk to the stylist and ask
them to work with you. So many people are afraid to contact
the stylist and tell them they are unhappy.
Understand that good stylists want happy customers and are only
too delighted to make adjustments.
Conclusion
Chemical
perms may or may not be the best solution for your luscious
curls. If you decide to go for it, make sure you find a
stylist that has expertise in this chemical arena.
Keep in
mind that if your hair is damaged, unhealthy or you have some other
extenuating circumstances, a perm may not be your best option.
Instead, dust off your favorite curling iron, hot rollers or rag
rollers and go to work winding away. |