Since 1983 the famous Queen Of Curl – Ouidad – has been educating the world about curly hair.   One of the ways Ouidad has helped people with natural textures to tame their curls is to help them understand their hair type so they can then find the right naturally textured cut, how to shampoo, the best curl products to use and related natural texture hair care tips and techniques.

(Image of Kristen Bell with strick straight strands.  Kristen is known to have fine hair which is naturally straight – DC Media – All Rights Reserved)

Understanding Your Hair Type

A key part of anyone with natural textured hair is to try and understand what type of hair they really have.  Is it naturally wavy with some curls (my own hair), naturally curly with big curls and a few waves, tightly curled without a wave in sight or kinky curly?  Maybe it’s a combination of all of the above or none of the above.

Hairdressers Have Used Hair Classification And Typing Systems For Many Years

Every head of natural waves, curls and kinks are like fingerprints, completely unique.  However, without some sort of guidelines it’s difficult, especially for the naturally textured novices to find their way.  Natural textures are part of a general hair texture classification system which has been in place since almost the beginning of hair dressing days. (more…)

I met Barbara Lhotan shortly after I founded HairBoutique.com in 1997 when I spied her first updo book at a beauty supply store.  Actually Barbara’s book had already sold out and the only one left was the owner’s copy.

(Image of natural curly cut, color and style created by Barbara Lhotan – Courtesy of Barbara Lhotan – All Rights Reserved)

When I discovered the book was sold out I literally begged the owner to buy her book and even offered double the price.

Beautiful Updos & Long Hair Expert

The book was so great because it not only dealt with beautiful updos, it honored long hair, which is originally what lead me down the path of starting HairBoutique.  I later discovered Barbara is in big demand for her long hair and updo classes.

Although I didn’t personally know Barbara, I hunted her down and called her on the phone.  After a lovely chat with her sweet mom we finally connected and it felt like we had been working together all of our lives. (more…)

Paul Mitchell Schools recently rolled up their green sleeves to help raise national awareness of Earth Day.

During the week of April 20-24, the network of nearly 100 schools participated in a nationwide initiative to communicate a green message, offering a number of eco-friendly services such as recycling drives, community cleanups, and reducing carbon footprints in the school locations.

To kick off the Paul Mitchell Schools’ Earth Week event, Paul Mitchell Future Professionals created the “Cut Hair, Not Trees” campaign. Guests at participating Paul Mitchell Schools during Earth Week could receive a haircut ranging from $10 to $12 along with a complimentary T3 Wash House Experience. (more…)

Although my own hair is very long, it is naturally wavy and has lots of natural curls, especially in the back of my neck.

The famous Curly Girl, Lorraine Massey, dubbed me a true curly girl, but because my hair is so long, the curls have virtually been replaced by very loose waves.

(Image of Curly Junkie’s Coffee Coco-Cream Lite – Available at CurlyJunky.com)

I’m always looking for new products to add moisture to my parched strands and often crossover into the curl world in search of new products.

Curl Junkie

Ironically, when I founded HairBoutique.com back in 1997 there were very few hair products designed specifically for those with curls.  Since that time the curly hair product world has literally exploded and it’s often impossible to track all the independent lines which pop up on a regular basis.

Even the big name companies have jumped into the texture fray providing a dizzying array of natural curl and texture products to select from. (more…)

Yesterday I was talking to some of my hairstylist friends and of course we’ve all been watching Shear Genius 3 (SG3) every week on Bravo/TV.

As a result of the show lots of topics of hair conversation have been popping up.

One conversation was the Shortcut Challenge which is one of two challenges which takes place every episode on SG3.

The challenge is always timed.  Often the SG3 contestants are only given 60-120 minutes, depending on the hair challenge and what other hairdressing tasks might be included such as applying color, chemicals, hair extensions or other adjunct hair styling procedures.

Which brought up the question, how long a hair cut should really take.  In the real world of course.  Not on a reality TV show. The answer?  It depends.

A haircut may include the following variables:

1.    Length of hair (very short to very long)
2.    Texture of hair (straight, wavy, curly, kinky, mixed textures)
3.    Type (thin, medium, thick, very thick)
4.    Children of adult cut
5.    Male of female
6.    Wet haircut or dry haircut
7.    Cut only or cut with blow out and styling options?
8.    Haircut combined with other chemical treatments such as color or texturizing?
9.    Cost of the cut (inexpensive to full service cut)
10.  Type of salon or hair establishment (cut-in-the-box, high end or celebrity salon)
11.  Experience and skill level of hairstylist as well as reputation
12.  Number of people involved.  Are assistants included?

Of course there are always unforeseen variables but in general the key variables are listed.

In cosmetology school once we were taught to caught hair we were required to practice, practice, practice and focus on getting fast while being being precise and efficient.  Of course time is always money in the world of hairdressing.

(more…)

I have to ask this question because it’s been driving me crazy.  Where do the producers of Bravo’s Shear Genius 3 (SG3) find their model?  Last night’s Short Challenge was beyond surreal.

The remaining contestants consisting of Matthew, Janine, Brian, Jon, Amy, April and of course the obnoxious Brig, were challenged to dry cut models with naturally curly, frizzy, hair into an asymmetrical bob.

After they were finished dry cutting the curly hair, the SG3 contestants had to turn in their scissors and shears and not touch them again.

Of course they were allowed to wash the hair after the cut but not cut again after a trip to the shampoo bowl.  It was interesting to see some of the contestants even coloring the tresses of their models.

If the hair wasn’t ruined enough with the creation of basically a haircut designed for naturally straight hair, it was definitely not helped by dying it.  Which Amy did and guest judge, dry haircutting guru Moulay Yacoubi questioned.

(Image of Brig’s naturally curly haired model on Shear Genius 3 after the Short Cut Challenge on Episode 5 – Bravo/TV – All Rights Reserved). (more…)

Using a razor to cut hair is not new.  In fact, it’s been used by hairdressers for many years.

Some of the best hairstylists use razors to create dramatic and high fashion styles for runways.  Which explains why razor hair cutting is more popular in Europe than in the United States.  Many in the hair profession believe to achieve the most finished results for a tailored hair cut, the razor is the best hair cutting tool to use.

Note: For some images of razored hairstyles check out:  Razor Sharp: Shredded, Chopped & Sliced Hair

Vivian MacKinder, my own personal hairdressing heroine (who I recently saw and interviewed at Cosmoprof 2009), is probably one of the most skilled hair cutters with a razor of any hair professional I have yet to meet in the hair world.  Watching Vivian work with a razor is like watching a sculptor with their special tools.

Note: To read more about the amazing Vivian MacKinder please check out:  The Evolution Of Vivienne MacKinder

Vivian visited the Paul Mitchell school when I was there attending classes and demonstrated several of her techniques.  It was one of the highlights of my attendance at the school.  She also make some very special hair cutting razors available for purchase.  Yes I did buy the razor with some back blades. (more…)

Hairdressers and stylists who cut lots of hair on a regular basis must find the very best shears for their hands and fingers.  It is their most important tool.

(Image of 100% handmade Elite Shear from Shark Fin® Shears – All Rights Reserved).

Risk Of Carpel Tunnel Nerve Damage

Not only will this cutting tool allow the hairdresser to create the very best hair cuts and styles for their clients, it will also protect from over extension of the middle finger, which reduces carpal tunnel nerve damage and other health related problems caused by improperly fitted shears.

Traditional shear design allows your hand to misalign causing dexterity strain and other pressure. (more…)

One of the best experiences of my life, was attending a Paul Mitchell The School located here in Texas.

At the school I attended along with all of the Paul Mitchell The Schools, the students are referred to as “future professionals” which is a welcome title to carry.

(Image of Paul Mitchell the school in Cosa Mesa, California – Paul Mitchell – All Rights Reserved – 2009).

Paul Mitchell schools don’t just focus on teaching students about hair.  Many of the schools also offer courses for aesthetic students which my school did.

Note: If you wish to consider attending Paul Mitchell the school visit this link to find a school that works for you. (more…)

Recently I received an email about an article I had written about long hair informing me the author was obviously “clueless” about the topic.

Maybe I’m indeed clueless about long hair, but after having long hair (6″ below my waist and holding strong) since 1988 I think I have some insider’s knowledge of the topic.

Not to mention my experiences going to cosmetology school and writing over 3,000 articles about hair topics (consumer and professional) over the past 10+ years.

(Credits: Hair: Sunnie Brook Jones, Photographer: Sean Armenta, Makeup: Jennifer Thorington, Creative Consultants: Lucie Doughty – Paul Mitchell – All Rights Reserved).

It should be noted the writer of the “you’re clueless about long hair” email was promoting their own hair website and letting me know I should be using their work instead of my own articles.  OK.  Well a little strange way to make a new friend, but whatever.

At any rate, the number one email I am receiving right now is about a wide range of home hair coloring disasters.  It is very frustrating to me because it’s impossible to really help someone with a hair color disaster via email, or even over the phone. (more…)