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Goldwell: Mohawk Diffusion Color-Cut-Style


Have you ever wondered how your hairstylist or colorist transformed your dull dishwater locks into a fabulous award winning do?

Thanks to the good folks at Goldwell we have some stunning Before and After photos that show the step by step transformation from ho-hum blah blonde to a stunning diffused blonde Mohawk with incredible color, cut and style.

The goal for this model was to refine color and style and to create two very different evening looks - modern sophisticate and urban chic.

Although we do show the key technical details for creating this fabulous look, keep in mind that a professional colorist or stylist utilizing the recommend Goldwell formulas and recommended cutting techniques would be required to handle a similar transformation for you.

Step- By- Step Before & After Color

Goldwell modernizes traditional highlighted blondes with sultry, pastel monochromatic tones. Pastel toning diffusion creates a movement that releases a burst of the client's personality through the hair.

(Before photo of Alex shown to the side above).

Depending on style options and shade choices, color can be as soft or as extreme as desired. Keep in mind that not all hair types, textures or conditions would be completely right for this color, cut and style. Ask your professional hair consultant to help you decide if this is the right choice for you. Professional colorists and stylist should follow these instructions to duplicate this stunning look:

1. Starting at the nape, take 1/4" horizontal slices and apply formula #1 (see detailed Goldwell formula information at the end of this article) from scalp to ends. Avoid any over-processed ends. Place foil on top of the section. Continue throughout the remaining sections following the head shape (figure 1 shown to the side)

Note: Shade choice will ultimately determine the end result. For a more avant garde or natural result, your hair professional should adjust the shade choice accordingly.

2. Process for 30 minutes. Remove foils and shampoo with Goldwell Definition Color & Highlights Shampoo.

3. Towel dry thoroughly. Re-section out a rectangular "Mohawk" section starting from the forehead down to the nape. (figure 2 shown to the side)

4. Take 1/4" horizontal slices and alternate a fresh mixture of formula #1 and formula #2, turning the brush at an angle to create a feathering effect.

5. Start feathering from the scalp out about 2" up the strand, leaving the ends light. For a more natural look, stagger the length of the diffusion. Cover with foil and continue throughout the "Mohawk" section (figures 3 above & 4 below).

5. Apply formula #3 to the remaining hair, starting with the filler first. This will give the hair additional contrast and shine.

6. Upon completion of the color-balance application, process for 30 minutes. Shampoo and condition with Goldwell Definition Color & Highlights Shampoo and Conditioner.

Cool blonde highlights with pastel toning was brilliantly utilized to create movement and add personality. Next steps involve cutting and then styling the hair.

Step- By- Step Before & After Cut

This section provides detailed step- by- step instructions on how your stylist or colorist can duplicate the Mohawk diffusion cut. Subtle layers follow the contours of the face and neck to create a fresh, modern look.

1. Apply a combination of Goldwell Trendline Volume Mousse Normal and a small amount of Goldwell Trendline Gel Wax Normal to towel-dried hair prior to cutting. This combination works well as a cutting tool.

2. Establish 1 1/2" wide rectangular "Mohawk" starting at the temples and continuing down to the nape, created in 3 sections.

Comb or clip this hair to the side to be shaped later (fig 1 - shown above)

3. Starting with either side, hold fingers at a vertical angle using pivotal (pie shaped) partings and point cut to create desired softness and length.

Continue towards the face. The last section may be over-directed slightly to maintain length. (figure above & 3 shown to side)

4. Repeat the same on the other side. The shorter the length, the more dramatic the undercut.

5. Take the "Mohawk" section at the crown of the head with fingers in a horizontal position; comb a manageable section into your fingers.

Your fingers should be in the center securing the section at the base. Slide cut to create a light, airy texture. (figure 4 shown to the side).

6. Continue cutting towards the temples over-directing slightly to establish length as you work to create the fringe area.

7. Using the same angle and finger position, follow the contours of the head from the crown down to the nape.

Continue to slide cut for texture. (figure 5 shown to the side)

8. Finish the nape and side by using a notching or slide cutting technique to soften and define the perimeter.

A short, notched fringe may be cut to create a stronger, bolder design. (figs. 6 shown to the side & 7 shown below).

The remaining section of this article provides detailed instructions on styling that you stylist can duplicate in the salon or you can follow at home to recreate your new Mohawk diffusion style.

Haircolor by Deborah Gavin, Cut & Styling by Dale Seeman for Goldwell Professional Haircare. Photographer: Frank Wartenburg. (All rights strictly reserved - Copyright 2002 Goldwell USA)

Step- By- Step Styling

For maximum lift and support, apply Goldwell Trendline Styling Gel Strong onto hair at the scalp area only.

Apply Goldwell Trendline Jelly Mousse Extreme to the ends and side before blow-drying. Begin drying the sides forward for a softer or sophisticated look or angled back for a more dramatic, urban chic look. Use Goldwell Trendline Mello Goo Extreme to separate and accentuate pieces of hair.

The "Mohawk" section may be styled with your fingers either holding the hair at a 90" angle for a more dramatic look, or slightly to one side for an asymmetrical feel.

For a less dramatic re-style option, massage Goldwell Trendline Mello Goo Extreme in your hands and work throughout the hair until it feels pliable.

Work the longer, disconnected top into the side toward the face and through the back towards the nape.

Keep the top hair loose and messy for a fun, chic look (fig 1 shown at the top of this section).

Viola! You now have a fabulous color, cut and style that can take on two different looks from a modern sophisticated look to urban chic.

NOTE: For additional shine and texture, work a small amount of Goldwell Trendline Gel Wax Normal into your hands and massage into the hair for textured shape.

Goldwell Color Formulas

Note: Shade choice will ultimately determine the end result. For a more avant garde or natural result, adjust the shade choice accordingly.

Balancing The Canvas:

Formula #1 20 mL - 20 volume Topchic Lotion 20 mL - water 10 mL - Topchic 10V 7 mL - Topchic 9NA 3 mL - Topchic 8RR

Formula #2 20 mL - 20 volume Topchic Lotion 20 mL - water 10 mL - Topchic 10A 5 mL - Topchic 9KG 5 mL - Topchic 8KG

Color Balance Formula #3 40 mL - Colorance Lotion 10 mL - Colorance 10V 5 mL - Colorance 10N 5 mL - Colorance Clear

Any Goldwell stylist or colorist would be delighted to share their tips and techniques with you. Stop by and see all the exciting things that are happening with Goldwell.

For a Goldwell salon near you, call 1-888-881-0330 or visit

Goldwell Cosmetics (U.S.A.)., Inc., 981 Corporate Boulevard Linthicum Heights, MD 21090 Tel (410) 850-7555

If you want to talk more about this or other hair care articles on or anywhere else, please post a message on's Hair Talk Forums.

All hair color for this article was masterfully performed by Deborah Gavin. The cut & styling work was done by Dale Seeman for Goldwell Professional Haircare. The fabulous photographs were taken by photographer: Frank Wartenburg. (All rights strictly reserved - Copyright 2002 Goldwell USA).

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