How To Detangle Curly, Wavy Or Kinky Hair Care Using Fingers, Picks Or Wide Tooth Combs

Introduction

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When HairBoutique.com was first on the Internet back in the mid-1990s there were literally only a handful of hair focused locations.  By the time we officially launched HairBoutique.com there were a few more but still the landscape was mostly empty in the hair world.

The reason HairBoutique.com was designed for all hair types was to make sure we covered everyone from man to woman to child who had hair questions, issues and challenges.  That meant straight, wavy, curly, kinky or no hair at all.

Over the years a lot of misinformation has popped up on the now thousands of hair and beauty related sites.

Sometimes it's like gossip where someone starts a rumor and by the time it passes through thousands of sites the information is completely distorted.

Of course there is always personal hair experiences and desires which always need to take absolute priority over what someone on a website, blog, Facebook or social networking tells you. 

Always be true to your own hair type, texture, condition, needs and budget. 

Detangling hair, depending on how thick your hair is, how long and the type of texture detangling can take some time.  Make sure you allow plenty of time to detangle because if you rush you risk pulling, stretching or ripping delicate strands.

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Curly, Wavy, Kinky Hair Care - To Fingerpick Or Not Fingerpick?

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Depending on which curly hair expert you speak with, the type of texture you happen to have and your own hair care routine it may be best for your hair to be detangled, dried and styled using just your fingers.  This is known as finger picking or finger styling.

The theory between finger picking or finger styling is that when you use fingers (especially ones without rough skin or fingernails) less hair will be pulled out from the scalp and the curls will be detangled more easily.  Is this always true?

Not necessarily.  Some natural curlies, wavies and kinkies find that a lot of hair will come out when they detangle, especially if they haven't detangled in some time.  It also has a lot to do with the moisture of the curls. 

Naturally curly hair is naturally moisture deprived because of the structure and shape of most curls.  Moisture easily escapes.  The same is true for wavy hair but not as much and definitely true for kinky way.

When natural curls are dry and they are finger picked, just as much hair may come out as if a wide tooth shower comb or a pick is used. 

So what are you to do?  Make your own decision about what method is best for your curls.  You might try finger picking and finger detangling and decide for yourself which works the very best for you. 

At the end of the day it doesn't matter what your friends, relatives or forum talk buddies say, you have to care for your hair and if you don't think your fingers are working, then switch.

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Curly Hair Care - Using Wide Tooth Combs, Hair Picks And/Or Brushes

One key concept about using wide tooth combs or hair picks on curly hair is to make sure the teeth are smooth as silk.

Whether your hair is naturally curly, wavy or kinky, if you use a shower or other type of hair comb with rough teeth, it will rip, snag and pull your hair.

If you find your hair responds better to a wide tooth comb or wide tooth pick than to your fingers then definitely utilize this method of detangling your hair.

Generally speaking whether a wide tooth comb or pick is a good detangling option may be tied to the curl pattern of your hair, the length and the overall health of our ringlets.

Should you use a brush on your curls, waves or kinks?  The majority of curl, wave and kinky curl experts say never ever to use a brush on either wet or dry hair.  If you must use a brush never use on wet or damp hair since hair is fragile in this state and will rip and tear easily.

Some people with kinky curls will use what is known as a baby brush to detangle but only because their hair is so dense and thick it can not be detangled any other way.  When in doubt talk to your naturally curly, wavy or kinky hair expert to get their advice.

Disrupting Your Natural Curl Formation

Curly Girl (CG) Guru Lorraine Massey says that using a comb on natural curls will disturb and disrupt the natural curl formation.  She advised not using a comb. 

In fact, many Massey followers will refer to their care methodology built around their natural curls as the CG Method.  It simply means they follow Lorraine's tips from her original "Curly Girl:  The Handbook."

Detangling Options

Besides deciding between whether to use your fingers, a comb or a pick to detangle you can either detangle:

1.  Bottom to top - starting at the ends of your hair slowly fingerpick up the entire length of the strand slowly continuing until you get to the roots.
2.  Working through the separate sections - surface picking means you use your fingers to stroke through the hair on the surface, starting at any point on the strands, and then slowly work through to the underside. 
3.  Combination of both ways to detangle.  Some people like to start at the ends and then will switch half way through the detangling process.
4.  Apply a leave-in conditioner and/or detangling product to wet hair and wrap hair into a wet bun allow conditioners to totally penetrate before detangling.  You can also apply styling products to the top of the hair and allow them to penetrate as well before separating hair into sections before detangling.

Tips For Detangling Natural Curls

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A lot of hair breakage occurs to natural curl, waves and kinky curls because of improper detangling.

Although most curly hair experts recommend using your fingers, the key is starting with properly conditioned strands.  If you get better results with a wide tooth comb or pick, then use what works best for you.

1.  Remember, when you wear your hair natural, adding back moisture is key.  If your hair is chemically treated the need for moisture is doubled. 

If damp strands aren't first prepped for detangling with a rinse-out conditioner in the shower and then a cocktail of leave-in conditioning products, tresses will naturally be harder to detangle hair, regardless of the detangling tool used.

2  Apply a rinse out conditioner that works for your hair's normal texture, type and condition.  Consider trying a color co-ordinated mask such as Okara Restructuring and Protective Radiance Mask  to intensify your existing color.  Avoid using the conditioner on super fine hair or near the roots.

3.  Finish with a cool/cold rinse to close the cuticle and help add natural shine.

4.  Towel blot (never rub or rough dry) to remove excess water.

Remember to take your time blotting and detangling your hair.  Keep untangled hair tucked down to prevent air from prematurely drying it out.  Dried out strands cause breakage.  If you are using bobby pins to pin up your different sections be sure to only use pins with covered ends. 

Also, use extra large bobby pins, especially if your hair is thick because the bigger pins will penetrate easier into hair that is thick, extra curly or bushy.

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In general it's best to stay away from conditioning and/or detangling products which contain lots of alcohol or petroleum which can coat your hair and block out natural air flow.

If you get to a knot of tangle that is particularly difficult to detangle you can either apply a little more leave-in conditioner or detangler to your fingers and then work through the knot.

6.  Whether you detangle with your fingers, a comb or pick, untangle one of the pinned up sections.  Start at the ends of your hair and slowly work up to the top towards the roots.

If you feel the need to use a comb or pick wait as long as possible to switch from your fingers, especially if your hair is dry or damaged.  

When you're finished detangling twist the detangled section back up and pin back onto the scalp.

Note:  When your hair is thick to very thick and has masses of curls to get through you may wish to use a detangling comb or pick with the longest teeth you can find. 

The longer the teeth, the easier to penetrate through the thickness of any section of hair you are detangling.   Combs and picks with shorter teeth do not penetrate into thick hair as easily and may cause unnecessary tearing or pulling. 

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7.  Remember to always use Hair Friendly combs or picks which means they have silky smooth teeth with the ends being tapered or rounded but not blunt. 

If you use your fingers be sure they do not have sharp nails or skin which will snap wet strands.  You may even wish to apply cream or leave-in conditioner to your fingers to keep them silky smooth before de-tangling.

8.  Once hair is completely detangled and all the detangling sections are pinned back up you can allow hair to air-dry or you can use a short or long finger diffuser or a sock. 

The options are endless to finishing your styling once your hair is completely detangled.

If your hair actually dries out before you are finished detangling you can either spritz with a water bottle or a detangling spray.

Summary

Whenever possible avoid using narrow toothed combs and brushes, use wide-toothed combs instead which has less of a tendency to cause breakage and frizzing.

Remember to treat your waves, curls and kinks like a very fragile antique silk gown you wish to preserve with lots of Tender Loving Care.

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Original Publication:  10/23/09 - Revised Publication:  10/23/09

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