Great Hair Scoops For Fall ‘08

Introduction

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Bobs get broken up, short is sexy and color’s the unreal thing. Check out what else pros coast-to-coast have to say about what’s haute in their hoods.

Suitably Short and Suitably Blonde.
Don Francis, Marie Bove salon, NYC

Right for You? If you’re confident, go for it.

Getting the Look: “The short cut is back,” says super-stylist Don Francis, who works at Marie Bove in NYC.  “Simple, clean, easy lines are slightly stronger now and a touch more architectural than they were in summer.

For fall, the look will be softer, grown-out, casual chic that’s textured for a geometric feel. Also, soft and dimensional-horizontally color that’s still lighter than your natural color will continue to be in vogue.  Just be certain the blonde you love isn’t too light for your skin tone.”

The essence of getting the look, adds Francis, is simplicity. Instead of using a brush, shake your hair out with your fingers, and use a blower for speed drying or a touch more body. As for products: “Just use whatever is going to give your hair more performance. If you need more shine, blow in some style cream. If you need more bounce, blow in a light mouse or spray gel.”

To avoid product that shows,  put touchable styling products at the top of your fall shopping list.

Heavy A-line Bobs with Waves
Kiyoshi Mizota, Pam Cacpal  and Ines Arnold
Paul Brown Salon and Day Spa  Honolulu, HI  

Right for You? If wave comes naturally

Mizota and Pam Cacpal, towel dry your hair, then take a small amount of Paul Brown’s Diamond Head. Work it through the hair, staying away from the root area.  Then blow dry half-way, as you fingerstyle. To finish, add Paul Brown’s Hapuna Beach, and let hair air dry.

Continued below ↓

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Natural-looking Hair with Bangs
Scott Fisher, Pamplemousse, Chagrin Falls, OH.

Right for You? Everyone wants and can have it!

Getting the Look: Women in Cleveland are asking for “looks that are natural, effortless and chic.” Scott Fisher, owner of Pamplemousse, says they’re the three main words he hears the most.  

“Every season is redefined according to the trend,” says Fisher.  “Here, that means bangs with wavy hair, bangs with straight hair or bangs that open up and lengthen the face. We call them V-shaped bangs. By creating a V-shape at center of the left eye, then sweeping the hair over to the right eye, you maintain a  nice length for the face.”

For styling, Fisher recommends two styles of brushes—the classic Denman brush with plastic bristles for smooth finishes or the Mason Pearson boar and plastic bristle combination for other textures.

“Use a blow dryer that has settings from super-hot to low, variable air flow and a cool shot button,” he adds. “As you dry, you can feather the hair around your finger to encourage wave or scrunch-dry. When going from curly to smooth, or for smoothing bangs, use Straight from Bumble and Bumble. It absorbs into the hair shaft to keep the cuticle flat.”

The Personalized Pixie
Amber Evano, recent cosmetology graduate, now a  teacher’s license candidate, Empire Beauty School, Williamsport, PA.

Right for you? Naturally, it’s personalized!

Getting the Look:

Amber Evano, who recently won Empire Beauty School's 2007 National Competition in the Ladies Trend Cut & Style, Color category, knows what the younger set likes: Personalized bobs and pixies.

“For fall, the medium-length bob, which has been so popular because of its simplicity and versatility, will go even more geometric and asymmetric with stronger angles and the sides, a shorter length in the back and longer hair in the front,” says Evano. For the look, she recommends using a smoothing shampoo and conditioner to keep hair straight and smooth. Then, she teaches clients how to blow dry their hair over a round brush to give it lots of volume. 

For girls who want to stand out but can't devote lots of time to daily styling, Evano loves the pixie cut. “They're the ultimate personalized cut and are so easy,” she explains. “It takes less than five minutes to blow dry and then finger style the hair with a bit of wax, placing each piece exactly where you want it to fall to play up your best features.”

Big Hair with Contrasting Colors
Fabian Bordelon, Fabian's, Baton Rouge, LA.

Right for You? Mostly for younger, high-fashion types

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Getting the Look: Daring clients are asking for Geo-Hybrids, cuts that combine geometrics with softness—and they always wear them off the neck. The best color-match for the cut uses contrasting shades that work with natural color and skin tones, says Fabian Bordelon, owner of Fabian’s in Baton Rouge, LA.

“Either several dimensional colors are foiled throughout the head, or different colors are used on a fine sections in different places, like the roots, midshafts and ends.

It sounds more dramatic but really, it’s all in the colors that are chosen. The color placement always takes its lead from the cut. 

“For a big-hair style, use KMS Blow Dry Lotion at the bases. Dry the hair with a flat paddle brush for straightening. To soften the ends, switch to a large, round brush.”

To boost texture, Bordelon likes Alterna's Rapid Repair Spray. First, pin the hair up in sections, then mist on the spray and dry for fullness, section by section. Next, use Taffy from L’anza. It adds pliability and control, as you further manipulate the hair into super-sized shapes.

The Bob
Eric Fisher, Eric Fisher Salons Wichita, KS

Right for You? Absolutely

Getting the Look:  “With so many variations, anyone can wear a bob,” says Eric Fisher, owner of Eric Fisher Salons in Wichita KS. “They’re razor cut and very loose, with an imperfect, editorial look Soft-edged, layered or graduated, curly or smooth, the newest bobs are almost always paired with bangs.”

To determine the right bob for you, says Fisher, determine how your hair will look cut to the natural hairline. Pull your hair back and look at your face shape. Hold a comb right on top of the hairline at the nape, parallel to it, then rotate the comb to the side of your face to see exactly where that length falls. If you have a square face and it falls at the jaw, you can go longer or get a shorter, graduated bob. Or, have the sides angled. 

“To further customize the look to your face shape, the fringe can be wide or narrow, square or soft,” adds Fisher. “A soft, tapered fringe with a little wedged bob is perfect.”

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Warm and Cool Color Mixes
Sandi Pavlik, Humphrey’s, Las Colinais, TX

Right for You? Just adjust the warm/cool balance and it works for anyone.

Getting the Look:  Colorist extraordinaire and haircolor educator Sandi Pavlik says if you have cool skin tones, be sure the first inch or two of color around your face at the hairline is cool. If your have warm skin tones, do the opposite. Then, balance warms and cools throughout the rest of your hair with color highlights or panels.

“Cool tones are trendy for fall,” notes Pavlik. “If you have naturally warm colorations, add one cool-toned highlight for every warm-colored one. Your natural color, closest to your face and between the foils, balances the entire color design.”

Women who have naturally cool skin tones or haircolor can embrace the trend with blocks of color and rotate the shades to favor cooler colors. In either case, the hair closest to the face around the hairline creates the right illusion and prevents color-clash.

Embracing Natural Texture
Suzie Bond, PERFECT 5^th,  Mooresville, NC

Right for You? If you’re willing to stick with your natural texture.

Getting the Look: Fall has lots of great style in store for us, says Suzie Bond, owner of Perfect 5^th in Mooresville, NC.  What’s happening: Bangs are going through the lengthening process to become a side swept fringe. Extremely long hair will stick around, boosting extension business. But medium lengths with lots of seamless, long layers will prevail. Add texturizing, and you’ll keep daily styling to a minimum.

“Work with your natural texture as much as possible,” says Bond. “Curly hair can be softly tamed with Goldwell's Move Control, used on damp hair and allowed to air dry.  Try just blow drying the fringe with a medium round brush to soften the silhouette  Follow the drying process with a light pomade,  like Pureology's Dry Shine.

“For straighter textures, applying a firmer-hold product at the scalp, like Pureology's Root Lift, will help hold the volume for nearly 12 hours,” she continues.  “Lightweight styling creams, used thru the midshaft and ends will protect against hot tools, while adding soft, flexible hold.  Start the drying process with your head up-side-down, and use a vent brush to lift the hair from the scalp for volume. When hair over 80% dry, lift your head flip and switch to a paddle or round brush to polish the ends.”

As for color, lowlights return for fall, “winterizing” the sun’s summer bleaching, adds Bond. Dimension is always key to making haircolor glisten.

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All About Bangs
Jet Rhys, Jet Rhys Salon, San Diego, CA

Right for you? You bet!

Getting the Look: If you never thought you could wear bangs, think again, says Jet Rhys, owner of her namesake salon in San Diego.

Here’s how: First,  train your bangs! After getting them cut for the first time, your bangs won’t stay in place. Your locks don¹t lie there naturally, so you have to coach them.

“Each night before going to bed, stretch a piece of tape over your bangs; within 48 hours, they’ll be in position,”  says Rhys. “The key to smooth, sleek bangs is brushing them back and forth with a paddle brush, in a windshield-wiper motion. This will take out cowlicks or unwanted waves; otherwise, bangs will look too bouncy and a little dated.

“A long, face-framing fringe will flatter any face shape. A soft, feathery cut will minimize full cheeks and adds contour to your face. To blow dry these bangs, begin by applying a dime-sized amount of grooming creme.  Then, clamp a two-inch section between your fingers and blast air flow at the roots.”

If you want to keep the focus on your eyes, Rhys suggests that you go for
eye-skimming, piecey bangs that hang down to your lashes.  The playful
length is ultra-alluring!

Asymmetrical Styles
Dino Minnella, co-owner and stylist, Chatters Salon & Beauty Supply Outlet, Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada

Right for you? Absolutely    

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Getting the Look: Whether women love their hair long or short, asymmetry is what's hot fall. 

“The newest look is the short asymmetrical pixie cut that's long at the front  and shorter at the back, a la Victoria Beckham,” says Dino Minnella, co-owner and a stylist at Chatters Salon & Beauty Supply Outlet, Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada. “It's a natural progression from the bob, which has been so popular; it takes it a step shorter.”

To get the look, Minnella recommends asking your stylist for an asymmetrical pixie that's longer in the front. To make sure you're speaking the same language when you say, "short" or "longer," take in a picture of Posh or show where you'd like your hair to fall. 

For fine hair, apply a product called Cherry Balm, "your blow-dryer buddy." Rub a dime-size amount through wet hair, then blow dry, using a medium-sized round brush. The product will do the rest, leaving the hair with shape and brilliant shine.

For thicker hair, work a dime-sized amount of Joico Smoothing Balm through wet hair and blow dry with the same brush. If you prefer a more polished style, finish hair with a flat iron.

To enhance the cut, Minnella says darker tones for fall will be warmed up with caramels and mochas. Highlights will appear more natural, as they'll be placed throughout and underneath, rather than on top, of the hair.

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