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Undercut And Overcut Hairstyles

Karen Marie Shelton/Dedicated To FFOS - Copyright - All Rights Reserved 
Revised Date: 10/16/11

Introduction

Undercut/Babydoll Blonde by Anthony Mascolor
Babydoll Blonde by Berry Bachen

Toni & Guy is always on the cutting edge of the latest hair fashions.  The renowned hair company is world famous for creating the haircut and styling looks of the minute.

Back 2006 Toni and Guy released the TIGI Ricochet Collection which was another example of their hair cutting inspiration and brilliance.

The TIGI collection which is designed for both men and women featured innovative undercuts, overcuts and disconnected hairstyles.

Because it was so innovative and offered new haircutting techniques for the undercut, overcut and disconnected cut it was a best selling hair collection.

Although it was quickly adopted by the punk and goth crowds as an ideal haircut and style, some parts of the high fashion world also showcased this hair look.

Ricochet Hair Collection Themes

The TIGI Ricochet hair collection was primarily designed for professional hairstylists to teach them a variety of the latest TIGI hair cutting and styling techniques.  The collection was a best-selling collection for the forward thinking professional hair team.

Besides providing visually stunning new haircuts for men and women, TIGI combined each of the cuts with different hair colors to demonstrate how to take the cuts to new levels.

Continued below ↓
 

Eight Unique Hairstyles

Undercut/Ultimate Brunette Haircut
 by James Morison
Brunette Hair Hues by Berry Bachen

The collection consisted of eight unique styles which were divided into four major themes.

The collection was designed to adapt to different hair lengths (short to long) and textures (thin to thick and straight to naturally textured).

The Ricochet Collection Hair Collection which was available for purchase as DVDs through TIGI and professional hair outlets included the following themes:

1.  Undercut/Babydoll Blonde
2.  Undercut/Ultimate Brunette
3.  Disconnection/Babydoll Blonde
4.  Disconnection/Ultimate Brunette
5.  Overcut/Pop-Art2
6.  Guy's Disconnection

The collection was inspired by the striking artistic vision of Anthony Mascolo, James Morrison and other TIGI masters.

What Is An Undercut Haircut?

The undercut hairstyle is basically a variation of the traditional blunt hair cut.  It's called the undercut because the under layers are cut shorter to create a completely different hair profile.   The under layers can be cut very short or even shaved (known as the under shave) with the over layers ranging from short, medium to long.

Overcut by Heath Grout
Brunette Hue by Berry Bachen

The undercut is usually started at the nape section which is shaved or cut, with shears, scissors or razors, to the desired length. 

Once the nape has been cut, the over layers are created one layer at a time. As the top layers are cut they are usually cut in a graduated pattern to create a longer and concave effect.

Usually is a key word.  Although the undercut became very popular as a result of the TIGI Richochet collection released in 2006, the hairstyle has morphed through a wide range of variations.

The undercut might also be referred to inverse layering and can be reverse cut to create what is know as the overcut where the top layers are very short with graduated long layers for a type of modified mullet hairstyle.

Undercut Has No Rules, But May Not Work For All

When it comes to an undercut there are no rules.  The undercut is designed to work with a variety of hair types, texture and lengths.  A very talented stylist can cut this hairstyle freehand using a razor for a unique and dramatic result.

Of course not all hair types and textures are compatible with an undercut hairstyle.  It does require a reasonably full head of hair to create the best look.

Disconnected Overcut
 by
Thomas Osborn

Naturally wavy and curly hair may or may not work well with an undercut due to the way the hair would wave or curl throughout the longer layers.  There's also the issue of how the hair might grow out over time.

Stick straight hair may not bend naturally and may stick out at angles.  A hairstylist can usually address these issues with weighting of the top layers.

When the under layers are cut short, the top layers tend to naturally flip out, bow or curl under.

Achieving an undercut is directly tied to the cutting skills of the stylist creating the look.

In this cut, the nape section is cut to the desired level, then, each layer after that is cut slightly longer creating a concave effect.

Advantages Of Undercut

The advantages to the undercut is that it's edgy, fresh and eliminates the need for a lot of styling time. 

The use of hot tools such as flat or curling irons are optional depending on the desired finished style.  The style can be finished with a round brush and a blow dryer that ideally has a concentrator attachment.

Ultimately undercutting softens the look of a hair style while providing an overall smooth appearance.

Combining Undercuts With Hair Color

One way to take an undercut or overcut haircut to the next level is to combine it with strategically planned hair color which can provide instant drama.  There are a wide range of color options which can be combined with an undercut.

Overcut by Zak Mascolo
 Hue by Sarah Brookes

TIGI Richochet collection showcased both blonde and brunette themes with a combination of highlighting and lowlight techniques.

Hair color options for an undercut or an overcut are endless and can range from all one color to Ombre to a sophisticated pattern of highlights, lowlights and array of hues.

Summary

TIGI's Ricochet Collection was another example of their hair cutting inspiration and brilliance.  The collection triggered the popularity of the undercut and overcut hairstyles.

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Original Publication Date:  6/25/2006 - Revised Date: 10/16/2011

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