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Goldwell Hair Ice Color-Cut-Style

Copyright - Goldwell - All Rights Reserved 
Revised Date: 12/21/11

Introduction

Model Allison
With
Hair Color by Deborah Gavin
Hair by Dale Seeman
Photos by Frank Wartenburg

Icy platinum blonde hair will never go out of style.  It was Marilyn Monroe's trademark hair color and has been embraced by legions of stars and celebrities including Lady Gaga,  Madonna, Michelle Williams and Lindsay Lohan. 

Even Taylor Swift has incorporated hints of platinum blonde to her traditional honey blonde hue.

Striking platinum hues, when created on any hair, should be enhanced with the proper precision hair cut to showcase the color.

Beautiful hair color applied to a less than stellar hair style will lose a lot of the color's benefits.

Secrets Of Hair Color & Cut Makeovers

Have you ever wondered how your professional stylist or colorist was able to transform your dull as dishwater hair into a fabulous award winning hair color showcased by a precision hair cut styled to perfection?

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

This article demonstrates the amazing step by step hair makeover transformation of a model from a single process high-lift drab blonde hair color, with a natural level of 6, to a stunning icy platinum blonde.

Before
Model Allison
Hair Color by Deborah Gavin
Hair by Dale Seeman
Photos by Frank Wartenburg

 

Goldwell Hair Color Formulas

The hair transformation created with Goldwell color formulas clearly demonstrates how the right precision hair cut and styling amps up the beauty of the new hair color.

Remember that a professional colorist or stylist utilizing the recommended Goldwell formulas and cutting techniques should be able to re-create this, or a similar look.

Of course your natural hair type, texture, color, length and condition would need to be fully evaluated.

This transformation should not be done at home without professional hair help.

Before & After Hair Color

Pastel toning diffusion creates a movement which releases a burst of the client's personality through the hair.

Goldwell has modernized traditional highlighted blondes with sultry, pastel monochromatic tones. Depending on style options and shade choices, color can be as soft or as extreme as desired.

Continued below ↓
 

Model Allison
Figure 1

 

Keep in mind that not all hair types, textures or conditions would be completely right for this color, cut and style.

Ask your professional hair consultant to help you decide if this is the right choice for you.

Step By Step Before And After Instructions

Professional colorists and stylist should follow these instructions to duplicate this stunning look:

1.  Start by applied formula #1 to any re-growth area.  Use the long tail of a comb and take fine partings to completely ensure all of the hair is thoroughly saturated with the hair color formula.

Goldwell Formula #1
50 mL - 40 volume Topchic Lotion
25 mL - Topchic 11P

Shade choice will ultimately determine the end result.  For a more radical or natural result, your hair professional should adjust the shade choice accordingly. 

Model Allison
Figure 2

 

The starting base hair color must also be taken into consideration.  A skilled colorist will know how to adjust the formulas to achieve the desired color.

2.  Upon completion of the re-growth application, start in the nape of the neck by taking 1/8" diagonal slices.

Apply formula #2 (shown below) on the foil, feathering into the retouch area.

Formula #2
35 mL - 20 volume Topchic Lotion
1 scoop Oxycur Platin
10 mL - Topchic Blonding Cream

Model Allison
Hair Color by Deborah Gavin
Hair by Dale Seeman
Photos by Frank Wartenburg
Figure 3

 

3.  Place foils directly on top of the hair.

Continue placing the foils throughout the entire head from side to side, bottom to top, alternating formula #2 and #3 (above and below) in the same diagonal slicing pattern.

Color Balance Formula #3
30 mL - 20 volume Topchic Lotion
30 mL - Topchic Blonding Cream

4. The color on the foils will need to be processed for approximately 45 minutes depending on a variety of factors.

The color should be watched closely during the processing time.

Once the color has been properly processed remove all of the foils one by one.

Before
Figure 4

 

After all the foils have been removed shampoo hair with Goldwell Definition Color & Highlights Shampoo or similar Goldwell formula designed for colored hair.

Rinse shampoo completely out of hair.

5.  Completely towel blot the hair.

Re-section the hair into 4  main sections as demonstrated to the side (Figure 3).

6.  Apply formula #4 to the occipital bone region down to the nape.

Be sure to fully saturate the hair with color (Figure 4 side).

Model Allison
Figure 5

 

Formula #4
20 mL - 10 volume Topchic Lotion
20 mL - Water
35mL - Topchic 9NA
5 mL - Topchic 10V

7. With the side sections, take diagonal slices and alternate formulas #4 (above), #5 and #6, scalp to ends (Figure 5 shown)

Formula #5
20 mL - 20 volume Topchic Lotion
20 mL - Water
30 mL - Topchic 10N
10 mL - Topchic 10V

Model Allison
Beginning Of Haircut
Figure #1

 

Formula #6
40 mL - Colorance Lotion
10 mL - Colorance 9GB
10mL - Colorance 10V

8.  Apply formula #5 to the top section.  Again, be sure to fully saturate the hair.

9.  Process for 30 minutes. 

Shampoo and condition with Goldwell Definition Color & Highlights Shampoo and Conditioner.

Refer to the bottom section of this article for detailed Goldwell coloring formulas.

Step-By-Step Before & After Cut

This section provides detailed step-by-step instructions on how  your stylist or colorist can duplicate the Texture Ice style.

Model Allison
Figure #2

 

1. Apply a combination of Goldwell Trendline Volume Mousse Normal and Goldwell Trendline Jelly Mousse Extreme or similar to towel-dried hair prior to cutting.

This combination works well as when cutting hair and provides support and texture.

2. Section off the nape area by using a horizontal parting from ear to ear.

Using a low projection angle to build weight, notch into the hairline to establish length and to create softness and mobility.  

Model Allison
Figure #3

 

3. Take a 45" vertical parting from the occipital bone to the nape. 

Angle fingers to the perimeter guide and notch deeply to create softness and mobility.  (Figure #2). 

4.  Create a horseshoe shaped section from the crown of the head to just behind the ears. 

Model Allison
Figure #4

 

After you have created the horseshoe shaped section take individual vertical sections.

Angle to the previous guide and notch deeply to blend with previous section.  (Figure #4 shown to the side)

Continue from ear to ear.  Repeat on the other side (Figure 4 shown to the side).

5.  To create an asymmetrical undercut, establish natural parting.

Model Allison
Figure #5

 

Starting with the lightest side of parting, part off just above the ear and slightly over-direct with a low projection angle and finger parallel to parting.

Notch deeply to create desired undercut length guide and create a soft edge (Figure #5 shown to the side).

Model Allison
Figure #6

 

6.  Take remaining top section, and using a low projection angle and the nape as your guide length, notch longer, disconnected hair from the side to the chin. 

When the longer disconnected sections are tucked back behind the ear, the shorter guide is revealed to create an asymmetrical look.

Repeat on the other side (Figure 6) shown just above).

Model Allison
After Haircut
Figure #7

 

7.  Soften the fringe area by blending with a notching technique to create soft harmonious balance to the face shape (Figure #7 shown to the side).

8.  Texturize the top sections by using a slicing technique.  This will allow the ends to move freely without appearing wispy.

Step-By-Step Styling

1. Apply a small amount of Goldwell Trendline Jelly Mousse Extreme to the hair at the scalp, and a small amount of Goldwell Trendline Jelly Mousse Extreme to the end to ends to create texture and help support the style.

The shine particles in Goldwell Trendline Jelly Mousse Extreme give added brilliance to the hair.

Model Allison
Final Styling Steps

 

2.  Dry the hair closest to the scalp in various directions to allow the hair to fall freely creating tons of volume. 

Add lift by brushing and forming to create a light, airy feeling.

3.  Using a flat iron, create ultra-straight ends,

Massage a small amount of Goldwell Trendline Shine Wax Extreme onto your hands and gently work it through the hair sparingly.

Goldwell Trendline Shine Wax Extreme has very little hold but a lot of flexibility, so the hair can move freely and still give texture to the design.

4.  For additional lift and texture at the scalp area, lift top sections and spray Goldwell Trendline Finish Spray Extreme aerosol at the hair closest to the scalp. 

After
Model Allison

 

Work through sections with your fingers to blend.

Viola! You now have an After Look which is a stunning sensual blonde color and a choppy bob hair cut with movement and total pizzazz.

Goldwell Color Formulas

Note:  Shade choice will ultimately determine the end result.  For a more avant-garde or natural result, adjust the shade choice accordingly.

Summary

In this article, courtesy of Goldwell, the key technical details for creating this fabulous makeover complete with hair color, cut and styling is clearly demonstrated.

Any Goldwell stylist or colorist would be delighted to share their tips and techniques with you.

Stop by and see all the exciting things that are happening with Goldwell.  For a Goldwell salon near you, call 1-888-881-0330 or visit www.goldwellusa.com

Original Publication Date:  07/15/2002 - Revised:  12/21/11

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