Ask Karen - June 2005

June 20, 2005
Hair Long Enough For Hair Extensions?

Hi Karen,

I was wondering if I could ask a few questions. Well my hair is about six inches long and completely drenched with damage from dying it so many different colors. So I stopped with all the dye for almost two months and my natural color is coming out.

and I was thinking of cutting all of the damaged hair down to just my original "natural inch of hair". Then I wanted to add extensions.

Can I still get extensions with my hair being super short? And what is the shortest length of hair you can have and still get them?

Well thank you for all of your time.

Jennifer

Answer

Dear Jennifer,

I think you're on the right track with your idea to have as much of your damaged hair trimmed off as possible. Once hair sustains major chemical damage, as yours has, it can never be completely recovered. Cutting and starting over does give you a chance to make a fresh start.

Hair extensions can be a wonderful option and definitely worthwhile in many cases to instantly have lush tresses.

However, please keep in mind that regardless of the method utilized, hair extensions may cause their own challenges to the ends of your hair. Be sure to take your time and evaluate all the various options and ask about the long term impact on your tresses.

While some extension experts might be able to work with less hair, most suggest that you have at least six inches of hair on your scalp to allow for attaching the extensions. I would suggest that you contact some of the hair extension experts in your area to ask for advice on how much hair that they require to work with you.

You may also wish to go ahead and get most of the damaged strands removed and give your hair a little rest. Hair accessories from scarves to headbands are sizzling hot right now. Why not play with edgy headgear or cute hair clips, barrettes or clips to give you a new look and your hair a much needed rest.

Whatever you decide to do, I applaud your willingness to take a step to get back to healthy strands.

Best wishes,

Karen

Whenever I go to have my shoulder length hair trimmed my hairstylist blows it out for me at the salon. Somehow she makes my hair look amazing. It is super shiny, bouncy and smooth. The problem? I can't ever seem to get the same results as she does when I blow dry my own hair. I am frustrated and can't figure out what I am doing differently. Any suggestions?

Many stylists will saturate damp hair with styling products such as mousse, gel or leave-in conditioners and/or shine products that will provide a super shiny, smooth finish. If you watch your stylist closely from the minute she takes you to the shampoo until the time that you leave the salon you will probably notice that she uses a lot more products on your hair than you probably do at home.

Next time you go to the salon, take a notebook and a pen and tell your stylist that you love how your hair looks when she blows it out that you want to try and duplicate the look at home. Ask her is she can tell you exactly what products she is using and then watch how much she actually uses of each type. Ask her what each product is designed to do. Is it a gel, a cream, a leave-in product or a shine product?

Watch carefully how she applies each product to your strands. Does she use a big glop of mousse rather than a tiny amount? How much gel or cream formula does she rub into the palms of her hands before she applies it to your strands? Does she carefully and evenly comb the products she uses through your hair so that it is evenly distributed? Does she use her fingers, a wide tooth comb or some other method? All of these things make a big difference in the final look of your tresses.

Another factor that can impact shine and smoothness is how carefully shampoo is rinsed from your strands. Because stylists have the advantage of having the assistance of a shampoo person who works at the bowls all day long, or because of their own experience, they tend to take more time and care when rinsing out any shampoo residues. Often, they will rinse several times with lukewarm water and finish with cold. When all the soap is not completely rinsed out, a filmy residue may remain which can dull a natural shine.

The actual blow drying technique that your stylists uses is also noteworthy. Pay attention to how she sections off your hair. Does she work from the top down and how thick are the sections that she blow dries? Ask her to show you and explain how to do the same blow drying technique at home. Most hair experts will blow dry the hair from the roots to the ends, moving in a methodical pace to make sure each section if smooth and completely dry. Some hairstylists will use a round brush, others a flat brush, depending on the hair type and style desired.

Finally, many stylists will finish a blow drying session with a blast of cool air to set the style.

While it is not necessary to buy all the same products that your stylist uses, it is important to acquire similar tools. For example, if your stylists always uses a mousse on your hair, you should invest in a mousse with the same properties. If a leave-in conditioner is part of her secret weapon for your shiny strands, make sure you follow her example and use one that is developed along the same lines.

Each hairdresser has their own signature style when they blow dry their client's tresses. The key is to ask your stylist to help you learn, take good notes, ask questions and then when you get home practice, practice and practice some more.

I have stick straight hair that is medium to long. I want to add some body, especially around the roots but even when I blow dry, it seems to always just be straight and flat. Do you have any suggestions on how I might add some body?

You may wish to investigate some volume enhancing shampoo and styling products to infuse your strands with body and movement. Start by applying a volume shampoo like PhytoVolume or PhytoMousse Volume with contains Mango & Shea Butter extracts to hydrate and coat the hair shaft adding moisture and volume. Rinse out the shampoo and unless your hair requires it, skip the use of any conditioning products which may soften strands and result in unwanted flatness. If possible, finish with a blast of cool water to help naturally plump up the cuticle.

Using your fingers, lift a small section of hair and pull it tight. Gently twist it in a clockwise direction. This helps to add to naturally add body and movement.

While still holding the twisted section, direct hot air from your blow dryer to the roots until completely dry. Then direct air to the rest of the twisted section. To lock in the new volume, finish with a blast of cool air.

Repeat this action in a circular direction until all of your tresses are completely dry. Finish with a light hair spray like Robert Hallowell Prawduct - rawhold hairspray or Phyto - Phytolaque Soie Hair Spray that will hold in the new body and volume.

I love to experiment with all sorts of at-home hair treatments. I am always wanting to try new things. Do you have some unusual at-home recipes you can recommend?

Answer

Dear Ginny,

I am always happy to share tidbits that I have discovered over the years. However, I want to start with a big disclaimer on the list I am about to provide. Please proceed with caution and avoid using any products that you may have a known allergy to. When in doubt, check with your physician.

Some well-known at-home beauty treatments include:

1. Banana Avocado Hair Conditioning Treat

Purify your hair and remove environmental gunk and junk. Use this weekly (but never daily).

Ingredients:

� 1/2 ripe banana
� 1 heaping teaspoon plain vanilla yogurt
� 1/2 ripe ripe avocado
� 1 tablespoon of Olive Oil

Directions:

Combine the ingredients together a blender. Mix well. Pour contents into a clean plastic squeeze bottle (old ketchup squeeze container works well).

Shampoo scalp and hair. Rinse well. Towel dry to remove excess moisture. Work the Hair Treat into your hair. Coat well, especially the ends but AVOID the scalp areas.

Use a wide toothed comb to distribute the mixture through the hair. Cover head in plastic cap or plastic wrap and cover with a warm towel. Site for 25 minutes.

Rinse well with lukewarm water. Shampoo. Do a final rinse. Apply a leave-in conditioner if you wish.

Warning: Always do a small patch test on any of these recipes to make sure you are not allergic to any of the ingredients.

Recipe provided by Robert Hallowell - Celebrity Hairdresser & creator of Prawduct Natural Haircare line.

2. Jell-O can be used as a styling gel/mousse.

Use Jell-O to create your own hair setting product. Buy Jell-O in the same shade as your hair, if possible, or the closest to your shade. Depending on the amount of hair you have to set, use 1/2 of the suggested recipe. If you have a lot of hair to style, use the entire amount in the Jell-O package. Follow the directions on the package and then let sit at room temperature until the mix is cool enough to apply to your hair.

Apply liberally to towel dried strands. Dry with a blow dryer or air dry.

Optionally you can use plain gelatin products if you prefer to simply set your hair without adding any hue.

3. Fabric softener rinse out conditioner.

Depending on the length and thickness of your hair, dilute 1 to 2 teaspoons of the softener to 8 - 16 ounces of warm water. Shake gently to mix. Drizzle through middle to ends of your hair and rinse with warm water. Finish with a cool water blast. Be careful to avoid getting it in your eyes.

4. Honey leave-in shine treatment

Stir one teaspoon of honey into four cups (1 quart) or lukewarm water. After you shampoo and have completed your final rinse, drizzle the honey mixture through your strands. Do not rinse. Detangle and blow dry or air dry as normal. As an option you can add one squeeze of lemon to the mixture.

If your hair is fine or thin, you may either wish to dilute this recipe using 1/2 teaspoon of honey to four cups of water or mix 1 teaspoon with 8 cups of water.

Recipe provided by http://www.honey.com.

5. Honey Hair Conditioner

For dry or damaged strands, mix 1/2 cup of honey with 1/4 cup of olive oil. For normal or oily strands, mix 1/2 cup of honey with 2 tablespoons of oil.

Using a small amount of the mixture at a time, work it through the hair until it is completely coated. Cover hair with a plastic shower cap and leave for 30 minutes. Remove shower cap, shampoo with your regular shampoo and rinse well. Finish with a cool water rinse. Blow dry or air dry normally.

Recipe provided by http://www.honey.com.

6. Pear Pack Volume & Texturizer

Run a ripe Bosc pear under warm water to soften. Peel and remove seeds. Place the pear in a bowl and mash with a fork. Mix in one teaspoon of plain gelatin. Apply the mixture to just washed hair, massaging into the scalp and working completely through the ends. Leave on hair for 15-30 minutes. Shampoo out and do a final cool water rinse.

Recipe above from Bargain Beauty Secrets by bestselling beauty author Diane Irons.

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