Ask Karen - March 2007

March 20, 2007
Finishing Spray or Hair Spray?
What's The Difference?

Question

Answer

Dear Donna,

Finishing spray and hair spray are basically the same thing.  The term finishing spray evolved as the old style sticky hairsprays were replaced by a wide range of softer, lighter sprays.

In reality hair spray can be used for a variety of hair styling duties ranging from providing a soft sheen styling finish to offering a firm hold. 

Whereas all hair sprays were pretty much the same, now they vary widely.  You can usually determine the ultimate holding qualities of  hair spray by the terms that describe it.  Usually there is light, medium an firm hold sprays.  You may also find sprays that are super firm or ultra light hold.

Some hair care companies will offer many versions of their sprays and some will only offer one-size-fits-all.

If you hairdresser is suggesting you use a "finishing spray" ask him what the goal should be for the spray.  This should help you figure out if he thinks you need just a tiny spritz for a "light hold" or a major blast for a super firm hold.

Obviously the lighter the formula of hair spray used, the softer the hold.  Most hairsprays do double duty by providing a natural shine enhancer and can be used in place of a shine serum.

Some hairsprays may carry the name "shaper" or "styling" which ultimately means the spray is designed to be soft enough to allow you to "reshape" your hairstyle throughout the day.

Other hairspray products which are specifically labeled as "finishing sprays" maybe defined to address specific hair texture challenges such as hair that is naturally curly or strands that spend a lot of time in the sun.

Two examples of these types of "finishing" sprays are:

PhytoSpecific - Extreme Shine Spray

Hair Care for Curly, Frizzy and Relaxed Hair. This finishing styling spray with ultra-light plant oils conditions the hair and provides stunning shine and luster.

Phytoplage - Protective Beach Spray Maximum Sun Protection with Olive Oil Extract - 3.3 fl oz (100ml)

The protective oil is ideal for hair weakened by the sun, salt or chlorine. The Protective Beach Spray prevents color oxidation and preserves hair shine. Provides a U.V. filter.

Phytoplage - Protective Sun Veil - Strong Protection with Sunflower Extract - 3.3 fl oz (100ml)

This oil-free styling and protective veil forms an invisible screen that protects the hair from the damaging drying effects of the sun, salt and chlorine. Provides a U.V. filter.

As always, the ultimate choice of hair care products is yours to make and should be tied directly to how you want to finish your look.

Some other finishing/hairsprays to consider:

John Frieda - Frizz Ease - Moisture Barrier - Firm-Hold Hair Spray - 10 oz

Finish & hold. Fast-drying formula lasts long, stays strong. Creates an instant barrier that helps seal out humidity & combat frizz, rain or shine.

John Frieda - Sheer Blonde - Crystal Clear - Hairspray - 8.5 oz

Crystal Clear shape & shimmer hairspray holds & finishes. Brightens blonde. Non-yellowing, non-dulling formula dries crystal clear & glossy. Won't darken blonde strands.

Robert Hallowell Prawduct - rawhold hairspray - 8.5 oz (250 ml)

Protective non-aerosol spray. Non-sticky, non-flaking recipe - light to med hold. Infused w/ fennel & natural sunscreen to protect hair from everyday wear & from sun's damaging rays. Basil & rosemary extracts for perfect hold & shine. Herb garden complex.

Leonor Greyl - Laque Souple - Styling Spray for Thin Hair 125 ml

A light hairspray that adds brilliance. It protects from the humidity without drying out hair and is easily eliminated by brushing. Apply on dry hair everyday if necessary.

Paves Professional - Convertible-Proof Firm Hold Repairing Hair Spray

This hairspray is designed to provide "firm hold" that will last through a ride in a convertible.  It is also designed to create a high sheen while resisting humidity.  The product won't move unless you want it to.  It is also designed to repair dry or damaged hair and includes Burdock and Ginseng Root for stimulating hair growth.  Roman Chamomile Oil is included to smoothe dry and irritate scalp.  It is scented with essential oils.

Rene Furterer - Instant Hold Finishing Spray

No product drying time required - simply spritz, brush, and go. Enriched with vitamin B5 and Anatide to prevent dehydration and impart a transparent sheen.

Rene Furterer - Styling Solution - Strong Hold - 5.0 fl oz (150ml)

A finishing/hairspray that provides strong hold and designed to pump up the shine.

Phyto's Phytolaque Aerosol Hair Spray 

Phytolaque is a medium hold botanical aerosol spray for all hair types. Botanical ingredients let you style hair without oiliness, stickiness or added weight. Purse size.

Phyto - Phytocurl Curl Defining Spray - 5 oz

A styling treatment specifically formulated for curly hair. Phytocurl spray perfectly structures and energizes your curls from the first application.

PhytoPro - Instant Hold Spray #15

Extra firm holding spray provides continuous strong hold w/out retouching.  The high concentration of active principles guarantees long-lasting hold all over. Great for root lift.

PhytoPro - Strong Finishing Spray - 6.7 fl oz (200ml)

Achieve a firm even hold for perfect, long-lasting style. Myrrh, a vegetable resin, coats each hair shaft for beautiful shine and radiance. The product is easily eliminated by brushing.

PhytoSpecific - Extreme Shine Spray - 2.5 fl oz

Hair Care for Curly, Frizzy and Relaxed Hair. This finishing styling spray with ultra-light plant oils conditions the hair and provides stunning shine and luster.

J.F. Lazartique Revitalizing Shining Hair Blush

J.F. Lazartigue redefines ordinary blush with the introduction of an extraordinary product for hair which is the Revitalizing Shining Blush.

This innovative product was designed to treat dull hair while creating an instant silky sheen. Revitalizing Shining Blush contains two active ingredients to achieve outstanding benefits and instant luster.

Best wishes to you,
Karen

March 8, 2007
Need Leave-In Conditioner, But Find
They Weigh Down Fine, Thin Hair?

Question

Answer

Dear Fran,

If you find that a rinse-out conditioner is too heavy or weighs your fine strands down, you are right to consider other ways to add conditioning to your frizzy, wiry strands.

You have several options to try:

1.  Opt for a very light weight leave-in conditioner that comes in a spray or lotion. 

2.  Use a light styling mousse or for texture a mousse/gel combination. 

Most mousse products have built-in conditioning properties and they provide beautiful body and texture which your fine, thin strands might appreciate.

Mousse Products to try:

Paul Brown Hawaii - Mousse Gel

A combo of mousse and light gel for moisturizing, detangling and styling all in one product.

Paves Professional - FLAWless Red Carpet Firm Hold Repairing Styling Mousse For Dry Damaged Hair

This rich foam formula contains significant concentrations of treatment ingredients which provide a strengthening complex of proteins and polymers to add elasticity and shine, protecting fragile hair from over-styling and over-processing.

PhytoPro - Intense Volume Mousse #13

This product provides intense body & volume by swelling the hair shaft. It makes styling simpler & lengths the hold. Hydrates & softens while enhancing brilliance & sheen.

PhytoSpecific - Integral Hair Care for Curly, Frizzy and Relaxed - Use on dry or damp hair. Restores moisture. Smoothes. Redefines curls. Detangles. Makes setting easier. Protects hair from heat damage.

Like mousse, most detanglers are designed to soften and condition while helping to remove pesky tangles.

4.  Use a leave-in conditioning cream but use on a teeny tiny dab and distribute from the ears down to the ends. 

I adore the Phyto 7 and 9 leave-in conditioning creams but Phyto 9 is designed for thick, coarse, curly or wavy hair that needs extra leave-in conditioning oomp.

If you wish to try the Phyto leave-in creams opt for Phyto 7 and use only a tiny bit.  The good news?  A little bit goes a long way and a tube will last you many months, if not years.

Some people have reported even better results by mixing a tiny dab of Phyto 7 with a drop of water.  This will delete the product slightly and make it even softer.

Other options include:

1.  Using a very light shampoo pre-treatment oil formula on the middle and ends of your hair.  Jojoba is a very light oil and when used sparingly will not weigh down thin or fine strands.

Products to try:

HairTopia - Beautiful Hair Oil

A synergistic blend of pure organic jojoba oil, essence of flowers, vibrational elixirs of gems, pure essential oils of lavender, bergamot, grapefruit, rosemary & lime designed to moisturize dry hair and scalp.

HairTopia - Beautiful Hair Mist

This light mist formula works can be used all day long on all hair types.  Because it has a water base it does not get oily and will not weigh not fine or thin strands.  This formula is a synergistic blend of pure distilled water, essence of flowers, vibrational elixirs of gems, pure essential oils of lavender, bergamot, white grapefruit, rosemary & lime designed to moisturize dry hair and scalp.

You can also experiment with using a detangling spray as a pre-treatment option.

2.  Diluting your shampoo with water to minimize the potential drying effects which lead to wiry and frizzy strands. 

3.  Perform a cool/cold water final rinse to close the cuticle and add shine while minimizing frizz and wiry strands.

The key when selecting a product is to be willing to experiment a little bit to see what works best for your hair type and texture. Remember, what works best for one may not work well for another person.

In  your case you might start with the lighter leave-in products like a detangling spray, mousse or light cream and work your way up to the creams.

I would not recommend that you experiment with using medium or heavy gels or waxes since they can be too heavy for fine strands.

Best wishes to you,

Karen

Question

Dear Karen,

I am never sure what size of barrel I should use with my curling irons.  Can you give me an overview of the different sizes of barrels.  What is the smallest barrel and what is the largest?  Is there a right or wrong size?  Is there a right or wrong way to utilize the barrels?

Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Clara

Answer

Dear Clara, 

In the past ten years the number and types of curling irons have grown by leaps and bounds.  There used to be just a few to choose from and now there are so many different types, features and barrel sizes it has become somewhat confusing. 

I understand your challenge and will do my best to provide you with a general overview.

Ultimately select a curling iron you will fell the most comfortable using.  If an iron doesn't feel good in your hand, you may not achieve the results you really wish to achieve. 

It's also wise to have irons with different sized barrels to make sure you have flexibility when creating different sized curls, waves and texture.

One key point to remember when selecting a curling iron barrel.  The smaller the barrel, the smaller and tighter the curl.  The larger the barrel, the bigger and bouncier the curls or waves.  How you hold and roll the iron along with the size of the hair section curled will also create different results.

Size Of Different Curling Iron Barrels

When it comes to curling irons, there are the traditional thermal curling irons which are intended to be heated in a traditional curling iron stove and electric curling irons which plug into electrical outlets.  Thermal curling irons do not plug into electric outlets.

Thermal curling irons have even smaller barrels than electric curling irons.

1/5 inch thermal curling iron barrel:  This is probably the smallest barrel you can find on a curling iron and it is designed for extremely short hair.  The 1/5 inch thermal curling iron creates very tight curls, tendrils and hair wisps, especially around the hairline.

1/8 inch electric curling iron:  This is a rare barrel size which may sometimes be found on an electric curling iron. It is ideal for the very shortest hair length or the very tightest curls, tendrils or ringlets.

3/8 inch barrel: This barrel size is available in both thermal and electric curling irons. Like the 1/5 inch barrel, these are designed for very short to short hair.  The barrels will create tight to very tight regular and spiral curls, fringes, tendrils and hairline wisps.

5/8 inch barrel:  Available in both thermal and electric curling irons. These barrels are great for short to medium (chin length) hair which is fine to medium in type.  These irons are great for gently creating bend to the ends of the hair.

1/2 inch barrel:  Available in both thermal and electric curling irons.  Designed to work with short (ear length), medium (chin length) or slightly longer (top of shoulders) lengths.  Creates well defined curls, ringlets and root lift.

3/4 inch barrel: Available in both thermal and electric curling iron models. The 3/4" barrels are designed specifically for fine hair. This size of barrel creates long-lasting volume and full body right at the roots without the need to tease or backcomb hair. 

This barrel may be too large for super short hair or too small with long or very long hair.  Depending on the size of the hair, this barrel will create medium sized barrel and ringlet curls as well as waves.

7/8 inch barrel: This barrel size is usually more easily available in thermal curling irons. This iron offers and option between the 3/4" and the 1" barrels which are more standard.  Like the 3/4" barrel the 7/8" barrel is best for medium, long or very long tresses.  It is very good for creating solid barrel curls and full ringlets.

1 inch barrel: Available in both thermal and electric curling iron models.  Creates lush and full barrel and ringlet curls.  Also excellent for creating loose S shaped waves.  These irons are also good for creating full root lift.  Work best for hair which is medium to thick as well as chin length, shoulder length or bra strap (BSL) length. 

1 1/8 inch - This is a rare barrel size which can be found in thermal irons.  It may or may not may  be found on an electric curling iron. It is ideal for creating smooth and loose barrel and ringlet curls on hair which is medium to thick and shoulder length or longer.

1-1/4 inch barrel: Available in both thermal and electric models.  Because the barrel is relatively large, this size works best for large, loose barrel and spiral curls, barely-there waves and loose root lift. These barrels are great for creating lush volume along the roots and through the crown.

1-1/2 inch barrel: Available in both thermal and electric models.  Designed to facilitate the creation of large loose barrel and ringlet curls on longer, thicker hair.  This barrel size is designed to great really loose and big curls.

2 inch barrel:  This barrel size is more easily available in electric curling iron models although they might be available in thermal stove models.  These barrel irons are designed for thick to very thick hair that is bra strap length or longer.  This big barrel can be used on shorter hair lengths but the barrel will create very loose curls and waves.

Marcel Curling Irons and Spring Curling Irons are a type of curling iron which is different from the thermal irons but similar to some of the electric irons.  They come in a range of barrel sizes.

Multiple irons.  These curling irons usually contain three separate iron rods attached to the same iron bridge.  The individual irons are usually all the same size.  Kate Hudson's celebrity hairdresser often utilizes multiple rod irons, which can be found in the thermal and electric models.

One of the most common questions about curling iron barrels is why barrels larger than 2" rarely exist.  The reason is because curling iron barrels larger than 2" would most likely be inefficient in transferring heat evenly throughout the strands.

A popular technique is to use a flat iron in lieu of an actual curling iron.  Another popular technique is to use the largest barrel size possible, but re-roll the newly curled strand around your fingers in a larger diameter and then pin against the scalp to set.

Best wishes,

Karen

Question

Dear Karen,

I have stick straight, one length, bra strap length hair.  I'm trying to grow it longer but to be honest with you, I'm getting really bored with my current go-to hair styles. I generally wear it straight down, or with some France Luxe or Camilla barrettes (I buy from your fabulous Marketplace) holding the sides back.

When I was much younger, in my late teens and 20's I used to create a variety of pigtails and braids but I feel it isn't really professional for a 35 year old to wear to work.

I have looked through your fabulous hairstyle gallery but I would appreciate any suggestions on what do do with my hair?

In one respect I am willing to experiment but don't want to look unprofessional or like I am reliving my teenage years.

Thanks in advance.

Kelly

Answer

Dear Kelly,

A great professional hairstyle is a nape knot which is a form of a chignon, hair twist or bun.  It is very simple to create and can be combined with any type of fringe, if you like that option.  Or it can be created without a fringe of any kind.

A nape knot is so incredibly versatile because you can wear the sides and top very tight and sleek or you can pull the hair back softly allowing a veil of tendrils, which are very popular now, to escape.

To create a nape knot do the following:

1.  Brush or direct hair from hairline back and down towards the nape of the neck as if you were going to create a low ponytail.
2.  Capture the hair in a Blax, Bungee or some other "hair friendly" elastic in the same color as your hair. 
3.  Pick up the tail of the new pony and wrap it up and over the base of the pony elastic to form a knot.  You can wrap the tail about the base until you have achieved the desired shape of the knot.  You can wrap tightly or softly.
4.  Use bobby pins in the same color as your hair and anchor the new knot to your scalp.

If you prefer, create a pony base with your fingers but don't secure with an elastic.  This will create a messier knot.

You can also experiment with creating a looped chignon which is more formal.  You may also experiment with positioning the base of the knot higher up on your head.

Of course you can also play with different parts or you can position the knot so that it is slightly off center or even to one side. 

Another option is a top knot pulled high up and positioned between your hairline and your crown.  It's definitely a sleek and very professional look which goes well with any type of business attire.

One way to banish hair boredom is to play with a wide range of options and have fun.

Best wishes to you,

Karen

Question

Dear Karen,

I am confused.  Someone told me to use coconut milk as a hair conditioner.  I was told to purchase Goya Milk at the local grocery store.  I had a hard time finding it and then I couldn't figure out how to use just the milk all by itself. 

I was talking to a woman at work and she said that people use coconut oil on their hair for conditioning and not coconut milk because it's not rich or thick enough.  Now I am not sure what to do.  Should I buy coconut oil, should I buy some other type of oil or should I try and make a go of the coconut milk?

What's the pros and cons of using either coconut milk or coconut oil to condition my hair?

Thank you.

Marg

Answer

Dear Marg,

While many people do use coconut oil as a deep conditioner and even a pre-shampoo or pre-poo conditioner, others do utilize coconut milk like Goya as a pre-poo base mixed with other oils such as Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), coconut oil, almond oil or other oils.

The key questions you have to ask yourself is:

1.  What's your hair type (very fine, fine, medium, thick, very thick or combination)
2.  What's your hair texture (straight, wavy, curly, kinky, combination of textures)
3.  Length of your hair (short, medium, long)
4.  Your hair moisture needs.  Is it normal, dry, damaged or chemically compromised?

If your hair is fine, straight and normal in moisture balance you will not benefit from either a coconut oil pre-poo or deep conditioning treatment.  Either will be too heavy and oily.  Also, both types of treatments are extremely messy and take a lot of time compared to commercially prepared products.

If you have hair which is naturally curly, wavy, kinky and in need of pre or post conditioning, you can work with either coconut milk or coconut oil.  You can also combine Extra Virgin Olive Oil or your other favorite oils combined with coconut milk to do a pre-poo or a deep conditioning treatment.

The good news about either coconut milk or coconut oil is the aroma.  It's so yummy you make be tempted to lick your fingers.  And yes, you can because its all natural.

Many people would suggest that coconut milk alone would not make a good deep conditioner.  Alone it could be a nice pre-shampoo conditioning treatment although it is very messy.

Also, coconut milk is not expensive.  It can also be combined with organic honey, avocado or other products to create a variety of face and hair masks if you wish to experiment.

Suggested Ways Of Combining Coconut Milk With Coconut Or Other Oils For Your Hair

Depending on the length and thickness of your hair add 2-4 tablespoons of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Almond Oil, Jojoba Oil or similar to 1 to 2 cups of GOYA or similar coconut milk. 

Apply the mixture to dry hair while standing in the shower before you turn on the water or wash your hair.  Optionally you can apply the mixin a bathtub. 

You may wish to catch the drippings from the coconut milk/oil mix in a large clean tupperware or similar bowl.  If you catch the dripping from your hair you can keep reapplying it until all have been completely saturated into your strands.

The advantage to applying in a shower or bathtub is to minimize the messiness factor.

After the mix has been applied wrap with plastic wrap, apply a clean plastic shower cap or wrap in clean dry rags.  You may wish to add a towel on top of the plastic caps.

Allow mixture to penetrate into tresses for 1-2 hours and then cleanse hair with normal products and routines. 

Although this will increase softness to your hair the amount of softness and added moisture will vary according to the type and texture of your hair.

To increase the value of the treatment, consider allowing hair to air dry.  Experiment with different oils and combinations.  All different hair types and oils will benefit hair in a unique manner.

Best wishes to you,

Karen

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Original Publication Date:  03/2010 - Revised Publication Date:  03/06/10

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