Ask Karen - April 2007

March 25, 2004 
Baby Fine Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have baby fine hair that is basically blah.  It just lays on my head like a wet blob.  I prefer to wear my hair short but once I get it short, I never know how to style it so that it is more versatile.  Right now I have a chin length bob that is really boring.  Please don't tell me to grow my hair longer because I am really out of ideas for longer hair.  Plus my paper thin hair just doesn't look great when it goes below my shoulders.

Thanks,

Jessica Anne 

Answer

Dear Jessica Anne,

Congratulations.  You are one of the lucky ones that understands your hair's texture (baby fine) and how it looks best on you (shorter).  So many people have a hard time figuring out what really works best with their hair.  The fact that you know your best length is wonderful.

To play up your baby fine hair's best attributes, ask your stylist to give you a shorter razor shaped style, adding long, face-framing strands that offer instant versatility.  

Whether you opt for the hot new short caps that hug your head or a choppier bob, the ultimate style and short length for you should be determined by your face shape and best facial features.

If you want to play up a gorgeous pair of eyes, ask your stylist to match the longer face-framing strands with blunt, chunky brow-skimming longer bangs.  

Or if you prefer to soften an angular jaw, ask that the face framing tresses extend in a graduated flow below your chin.

Once you have a masterful cut, there are many ways to punch up your look to banish boredom.  

For daily wear, shampoo your strands, then towel blot to remove excess moisture. Apply a tiny dab of defrisant cream like Phytodefrisant.

Using a flat paddle style brush, blow dry your tresses straight forward from the back of your crown, directing the dryer's air flow from behind your head towards the front of your face.  Continue to blow dry until your hair is completely dry.  This styling technique should result in a sultry cap that softly frames your face.  Use a small barrelled curling iron to spot finish and turn any edges under.

Instantly change your sensual short cap style for even wear by mussing it up.  Dampen your hair with a overall spritzing of a styling tonic like Robert Hallowell's Super Volumizing Tonic or similar.  Using a round barrelled brush or your fingers, lift and separate your strands at the root area.  Use a blow dryer with an air concentrator to direct the air flow from the ends of your strands up to the root.  This will ruffle and add instant new texture to your tresses. 

For a presto chango look from short silky cap to messy bedhead do, brush eye skimming bangs to one side while adding a little molding mud or light gel to the face framing strands.  Use your fingers to scrunch the longer strands and direct them back away from your face.  Instantly your short strands have new movement and texture.

Remember that the best way to instantly change up a style if to change the direction the hair lays, add texture like waves, curls or end flips and change the part, fringe and faceline style.  With these simple ideas, any short style can morph from casual to hot and edgy with just a few minutes and the right styling products and tools.

Best wishes,
Karen 

March 23, 2004 
Scrunching?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have a hair that wavy with a little bit of curl that is cut in a chin length bob.  When I went to see my stylist I asked him to suggest new ways to wear my bob to make it more interesting.  He told me that I should experiment with scrunching with my fingers and a good molding mud or gel.

OK.  Well I have to pull a Jessica Simpson but what the heck is scrunching anyway?

Thanks,

Annie 

Answer

Dear Annie,

Scrunching has come back into vogue in response to the big demand for Spring 2004 Pre-Raphaelite curls and waves.

Scrunching, also referred to as crunching or hair runching, is a technique that involves crushing sections of hair together.  This process is used to add instant texture to naturally curly or wavy hair from enhancing curls and waves to creating a cross between the two.  

Although some types of straight hair with natural bend can benefit from scrunching, the process works best on hair that is curly or wavy.  

Scrunching can be performed with or without other tools such as a finger diffuser and/or a blow dryer.

How To Scrunch Hair:

• Use your normal shampoo and rinse out conditioner.  If you wish to enhance your natural texture consider using a texture enhancing product mix like PhytoCurl which helps define curls or Phytobrush which was specifically developed for use in scrunching, blow drying and creating waves.
• Rinse well and finish with a cool/cold water rinse which helps to seal in moisture, add shine and helps enhance the hair's ability to form curls and waves.
• Carefully squeeze out any excess water with your fingers.  Remember to never rub wet strands but use a combination of techniques from squeezing out the excess water and then blotting strands with a towel.
• Towel blot with a thick towel or towel designed to speed dry your hair like the Earth Therapeutics Towel. It is best to wait to apply products to super wet strands since some of the product will drip off in the process.
• Apply your product of choice to the middle and ends of your strands.  Avoid applying product near the roots which may weigh them down except in the case of adding volume sprays like Phytovolume Actif or similar.
• Don't be afraid to layer product to get the best look.  You may wish to mix a defrisant products along with your styling product to add texture and block frizz at the same time.  It is possible to mix Phytodefrisant with your favorite mousse, glaze or paste.
• Once your hair has been properly prepared with the styling products of your choice, use your hands and work from side to side around your head scrunching individual sections.
• You have the option to use a blow dryer or long finger diffuser to help set the scrunched sections.  Whether you use a blow dryer or a long finger diffuse, remember to use a cool setting on a low speed to avoid blowing out the newly formed texture.
• Scrunching hair is a lot like crumpling up a piece of paper.  To scrunch effectively you need to pick up a section of hair, squeeze the strands between your fingers, and then crumple the ends of the strand up toward your roots, causing it to wrinkle and crinkle. 

Scunching With A Finger Diffuser

When using a finger diffuser to scrunch, direct the air flow from the diffuser/dryer up the strands toward the chunk of hair you are scrunching. Do not attempt to use a regular blow dryer on scrunched strands since the force of the air will blow out the wrinkled effect.

It is also important to remember that when using a diffuser, make sure hair is 100% dry to prevent frizz.  

Finish with an appropriate hairspray. For added shine, apply a tiny bit of gloss or shine serum to the palms of your hands and glide across the top of your newly crumpled do.

Scunching & Then Air Drying

If you prefer, you can apply product, scrunch completely and then let your strands air dry for a different effect. 

A favorite option is to towel blot hair, apply styling product, scrunch and then use a bunch of condor, banana or regular duckbill type clips to hold the newly crunched form in place while it air dries.

My favorite technique is to towel blot my hair, apply a liquid glaze and then finger scrunch my hair.  Then I create a series of two or three damp buns that consist of my newly scrunched hair that I clip with condor or dophin clips.  I let my hair air dry and viola, waves galore.

General Scrunching Guidelines:

1. Experiment with styling products designed to be most compatible with your hair texture and type.  In general it is best for all hair types to avoid styling products such as heavy gels, thick waxes or molding products that might make your strands sticky or give them that "too gelled" look after they dry.  
   
   Mousse, light sculpting creams and styling sprays tend to be lighter and offer more control and a softer overall hold for fine to medium textures.  A good hair glaze or hair paste works for thicker hair types and textures.
   
2. Use your fingers to scrunch individual sections to create a crumpled look.  Depending on the look you are going for, you can scrunch lightly, or heavily around your head.
   
3. Although you have the option to crunch as many or few sections as you desire, it is usually best to experiment a few times to determine the ideal look for your hair length and type.  
   
4. Experiment with different methods of grabbing the hair in your hands.  Interlace strands between fingers to scrunch to create defined waves.  Ball hair up to create bigger curls.  
   
5. Scrunching takes time and patience.  Think of scrunching as a type of Origami for your hair.  Be sure to allow yourself enough time to create the style you desire.
   
6. Be willing to cheat.  If you scrunch your hair and it looks more like you just came in from the rain rather than a hip, happening, crunched look, dig out your curling iron to fine tune the curls and waves.
   
7. Keep in mind that crunching larger sections of hair will result in larger waves and curls. Smaller sections will result in tighter texture with more of an abundance of curls and waves.
   
8. Remember to take your time and experiment.  

After a few times of scrunching you will know exactly the best products to use to create the results you desire and will be a scrunching pro.

March 20, 2004 
Scrunching Straight Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I want to scrunch my short strands but alas they are stick straight.  Even when I use a curling iron, the curls fall out fast.  Do you have any ideas of how I could get some edgy ripples in my strands?

Melissa 

Answer

Dear Melissa,

For hair to scrunch appropriately, you are right, it requires some natural bend.  Stick straight hair will definitely require more imagination to get the scrunched look.

However, never fear, it is still possible to get an edgy crunched up look that will not instantly fall out.  The key is to sleeping in either rag curlers, soft rollers or braids.  This will help to set the look you wish to achieve.  

Before you got to bed spritz your hair to dampen with a water bottle.  Separate hair into 1-2 inch sections.  Apply your favorite setting products.  Keep in mind that gel may be too heavy for hair that is thin or fine.  You might try a setting cream or light paste.  

Roll your hair in old fashioned rag rollers, soft rag rollers like those available from Conair or similar or soft sponge rollers.  If you don't like sleeping on rollers, you can braid each section into 3 strand braids.  Tie off each section of the braid with a hair friendly elastic band.  

After you have finished setting your hair in your desired style, sleep on your set.  In the morning remove the curlers or braids and use your fingers to break up the curls and waves.  Spray with a super hold hairspray and you will have beautiful, long lasting texture, as if you scrunched it with your fingers.

If you want to try the crunch style but can't wait for the hair to set over night, you can sit under a hood dryer for 15-30 minutes to help the style set.  Before you remove the rollers or braids, be sure that the hair is completely cool.  Spray well with a super holding hairspray.  Remove the rag curlers or braids and then use fingers to arrange.  Finish with a final spritz of super holding spray.

Enjoy.

Best wishes,
Karen 

March 15, 2004 
Annie Lennox Hair Color?

Question

Dear Karen,

I adore Annie Lennox's hair color.  Can you tell me what color it is and what I would need to do to create it?  My hair is cut very short like hers into a choppy style and I think I would look great in her similar hair color.  Any help would be appreciated.

Cara

Answer

Dear Cara

Annie Lennox is a long time favorite of mine.  And yes, she has striking hair.  Her very short choppy crop is bleached white.  To achieve the same color ask your favorite hair colorist to take you to a bleached blonde white shade.  

Best wishes,

Karen

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