Ask Karen - April 2007

Question

Dear Karen,

I am upset. Yes, it is true that I have colored and highlighted my hair for years and have also relaxed it at home but I am not sure if she is giving me the run around? She suggested that I try a temporary straightening product with a blow dryer for special events but that when possible I should let my hair air dry. When I do that it is so curly and I hate it.

Do you think this stylist had a secret agenda or just didn't like me? Do you think there is some other reason she won't straighten my hair for me? I am confused and frustrated.

Thanks for any advice you might have.

Gessica

Answer

Dear Gessica,

It is absolutely correct that Thermal Reconditioning (TR) products that are currently available as treatments by salons are known to be potentially damaging to some types of hair and not work as successfully on other types. It is also true that not all types of hair respond equally well to the TR treatments. Hair that is not damaged but is excessively curly may not be as good a candidate for TR as hair that is only moderately curly or wavy.

Since the purpose any given TR treatment is to break the molecular bonds that form your natural curls and reform them to be straight, the process definitely has the potential to cause harsh side effects when it is applied to hair that is already damaged from excessive coloring, highlighting or other chemical processes.

Many stylists that specialize in the TR treatments, regardless whether it is Yuko or some other manufacturer, will strongly advise against TR treatments to hair that they believe will not handle the results. This is actually a good thing. A stylist that advises you not to have any type of treatment because it may harm your hair is actually putting your needs and the needs of your strands above their ability to make money.

If your hair is seriously damaged from over processing you do have the option to use temporary straighteners for special hair events to get a straight look with the help of a blow dryer and a round brush. There are many products available on the market that will help you get temporary straight strands.

If you are serious about having Thermal Reconditioning performed on your hair, go back and pay the first stylist for a consultation. Ask the stylist for suggestions on how you might get your hair into TR worthy shape. Discuss other options that you might hair from temporary straighteners to spot relaxing. Take your time, do your research and think things through. After all, you have to carry your hair around with you wherever you go.

Best wishes,

Karen

June 5, 2000
How To Shampoo & Condition Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have several questions about the proper way to shampoo and condition hair.

Is it best to shampoo in the shower or is it better to shampoo in a bathtub or sink?

Also, can you please walk me through the steps of how to shampoo and how to use a rinse-out conditioner?

Thanks,

Becca

Answer

Dear Becca,

Whenever possible it is best to shampoo hair in the shower rather than the bathtub. Especially if the hair is washed during or after the same time as a bath is given. This is because bath water accumulates dirt and scum which you may not wish to transfer soap scum from your bath water to your hair.

Listed below are some general steps for washing and conditioning your hair. Keep in mind that what works for one may not work for another. Please also remember that some experts recommend not using full strength shampoo products and several hair washing methods have evolved over the years including:

1. Washing with diluted shampoo and water.
2. Washing hair only with water
3. Washing hair with only conditioner
4. Washing hair with diluted conditioner and water.

Remember...its not necessarily the products you usee but how you use them.

Shampooing & Rinse Out Conditioning Techniques

1. Start any hair washing session by first making sure all tangles are complete removed from your hair before you wet it. When water hits hair that has pre-existing tangles the water will lock in the tangles which can make them difficult if impossible to remove. Use a "hair friendly" boar bristle brush to carefully remove all tangles and knots. Start at the bottom of the ends and work your way up towards the roots.

2. Make sure to get your hair completely wet before applying any type of products. Most hair care experts recommend lukewarm water. Avoid hot or cold water (until the final rinse) since hot can damage strands and cold can close the cuticles.

Note: When possible strive to keep your hair as straight as possible as you wash and condition it. When hair is kept straight it prevents unnecessary tangling.

3. Apply shampoo to the palms of your hands and apply water to make a suds. Remember that less is more. Most people apply way too much shampoo product which may cause problems in the long term.

4. Drizzle the new suds over the top of your wet hair roots and pat gently into your scalp. Let the suds gently cascade down the rest of your strands towards the ends. Avoid roughing up your cuticles.

Note: Never ever apply shampoo directly to the roots or the hair. It should always be at least poured into the hands and applied and preferably mixed first with water.

5. Use the pads (not the nails) of your fingertips to massage your scalp. Again, less is more. Don't over massage or rub vigorously.

Note: Except in rare cases (very oily hair, hair that has been soiled with mud or other toxic debris) only one application of shampoo is necessary. Yes I know, in most beauty schools that insist upon two applications but trust me, as a hair consumer you don't want to apply more than one dose of shampoo.

6. Rinse completely. Take your time making sure to rinse and repeat until you are sure that all shampoo has been removed. Keep in mind that any shampoo residue left on the cuticles will result in dull and flat looking tresses. Keep the lukewarm water running from your scalp down to your ends. Use your fingertips to help the rinse cycle.

7. Once the shampoo has been completely removed, use your fingertips to remove any excess water by gently patting and squeezing.

8. Once all excess water has been removed (this is important since you may not want to dilute your rinse-out conditioner) apply the rinse-out conditioner of your choice from the top of your earlobes down to the roots. Avoid glopping conditioner onto your roots.

Focus the conditioning treatment on the most damaged or dry parts of your hair.

9. Get out your "hair friendly" snag free wide tooth comb. Start at the ends of the hair, not at the root area and work your way up the hair shaft. This method helps remove any knots and tangles quickly.

10. Leave the conditioner on for at least 5 minutes. Longer is OK. In fact, you can leave rinse-out conditioner on your wet hair for several minutes.

11. When you are ready to remove the rinse-out conditioner, make sure to rinse well. For the very last rinse or so, consider turning the water setting to cool. This helps to close the cuticle.

Note: Not all hair experts agree with this theory but it works for the majority of people.

12. Towel blot - do not rub - your hair to remove excess moisture.

13. Apply leave-in conditioner and/or styling products.

14. Blow dry or air-dry hair.

Viola. You should have soft and shiny hair that is well-conditioned.

Best wishes,
Karen

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