Ask Karen - November 2002

November 7, 2002
Confused About Hair Brushing?

Question

Dear Karen,

I hear a lot of conflicting information about whether it is good to brush your hair every day or not. Even worse, some people swear that you should brush your hair 100 strokes before you go to bed while others say you shouldn't brush your hair unless it is tangled.

What is the real truth?

Mattie

Answer

Dear Mattie,

You are right. There are many different opinions about hair brushing. The first rule of thumb is to adopt a brushing strategy designed for your hair type and condition. The old belief that brushing 100 strokes every night is good for you is based on days of old when hair was only washed a few times a month. In those days brushing 100 strokes helped to redistribute the buildup of sebum or natural hair oils. It also help remove dirt and foreign objects.

In today's modern world of regular shampoos and hair care treatments, brushing 100 strokes a day could actual harm your hair. Many trichologists believe that hair should be brushed on an "as needed" basis. While brushing does stimulate the scalp and removes daily pollution, the wrong brush used too often can accelerate split ends and/or other hair damage.

When determining your own brushing needs consider the following:

1. Do you shampoo on a daily basis?
2. Is your brush "hair friendly" and gentle.
3. Is your hair healthy, damaged or somewhere in between?
4. Does your hair tangle easily?
5. What type of results does brushing net for you?

If you shampoo your hair every day, have damaged hair or hair that tangles easily, you may do best to brush only to detangle before you shower or before your bedtime. Brushing your hair more than a few strokes might cause split ends or broken strands.

Healthy hair that doesn't tangle easily can probably withstand more brush strokes than hair that is damaged or has a tendency to develop product build-up.

Whether you brush daily or not or average a few or a lot of brush strokes, always start with the best brush you can afford to buy. Many trichologists recommend either a boar's head or a combination boar's head brush. Look for a brush that doesn't contain hard round knobs on the end of each brush spoke. The little knobs can catch on fragile hair and pull them out.

Mason Pearson is considered the best of the boar's head brush world. However, if you are on a tight budget Ambassador brushes makes a line of boar's head brushes that fit just about any budget.

If you prefer a mix of boar's and synthetic be sure to find a gentle brush that will not harm your hair.

Always do a test with any brush to see how your hair responds. If you notice that the brush seems to cause split ends or accelerate hair shedding, cut back on the amount of brushing you do. In other words, be your own real world brush judge and adjust your brushing based on the results you get with your hair.

Finally, never, ever brush your hair when it is wet or damp. Hair is in its most fragile state when it is wet and will more easily snap or break.

Happy brushing.

Karen

November 6, 2002
Hair Customer From Hell

Question

Dear Karen,

I own a very small spa and retail store in New England.I found your site just in time to read your September answer to the stylist that was distraught about the client who demanded all of her money back after the stylist bent over backward to warn her that her hair may not accept a spiral perm and spent lots of time with her.

I have to tell you that your answer made me feel better about a current customer problem I am having. You addressed a topic that many salon/spa owners struggle with. Many of us are honest and ethical but deal with customers that want something for nothing or even worse.

I sell several high end products that are imported from France, England and Germany in my retail beauty supply store.Many of my distributors will not accept returns from me on opened/used products. Therefore, I can not afford to accept returns on hair care products that customer buy "just to try" at my expense.

I go out of my way to make my return policy clear in advance and to talk to customers who want to try new products to make sure that they understand how a product may work on their hair.

Even after all the steps I take to advise my customers, I still have some that insist on buying products that they have never used and just want "to try".

One recent new customer who had never used one of the more expensive lines bought $125 worth of the products. I explained to her personally that I could not accept opened or used products as returns. I suggested that she start small with just one of the products and even offered to trade with her if she started small with just one of the products. That would have given her a chance to try the product first before spending all that money.

Instead she bought the $125 worth. I spent close to 30 minutes with this woman talking to her about her hair and trying to help her. She did not take any of my advice.

Two weeks after she first visited my store she returned with all the products opened and used. Approximately 2/3rds of the bottles remained. She said that she did not like any of the products and demanded all of her money back. I explained to her that some of the higher end products can take up to two weeks to work on some hair types and offered to help her use the products. She refused and said I was insulting her. I was just trying to help and was very polite in the process.

Karen, I could not accept all of the products back. As you probably know, there are health requirements that prevent me from reselling the products to other customers. Plus I do not want to take the legal risk of selling used products that may be contaminated. Doesn't anyone remember the Tylenol case?My vendor will not take them back. For me to refund all of my customer's money would have been a significant financial lose to me.

Even though I tried to warn her of my policies, she made a huge scene in my store and was very nasty. I politely but firmly refused to take the products back reminding her that I had warned her in advance of my return policies. She continued to make a horrible scene until one of my other customers actually stepped in and suggested to the woman that she leave my store, which she did.

She called me on the phone and said that she would report me to the Better Business Bureau unless I gave her all her money back. At that point I felt she was using blackmail. The woman then called the Better Business Bureau to report me as she had threatened. They completely supported me after I presented all the facts, which was so nice. However, she has been spreading rumors about me all over town that are false. I have talked to my attorney and he said that I could probably take action for slander.

Although most of my customers are honest and ethical and understand that I have to follow good business decisions, this one woman has made my consider closing my shop.

Any insights you have would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Jenna

Answer

Dear Jenna,

My heart goes out to you. Although I am sure you try very hard to be a good businessperson and please all of your customers, it is virtually impossible to please everyone all of the time.

This is often a hard business truth to swallow. Yet it is true that there are just some people that no matter what you do or say will not be satisfied. No matter what.

The bottom line is that you have to do what is the best for your business and your good customers. If you have discovered that taking opened/used products back is a business and financial loss, than you need to either be firm about not taking products back or you need to raise your prices to account for customers that are unwilling to follow your policies.

All you really can do with the woman in question is what you have done so far. You can make a special effort to help select the proper products for the customer's hair type and explain your return policies in advance. You can also suggest that customers who want to try new lines, do so slowly, one product at a time. This minimizes the investment risk on both sides. Customers have to be made aware of the fact that sometimes products involve an initial purchase risk.

The most important customer service occurs before the sale concludes. During this time you can advise a customer about the proper products and their use and warn them of any risk factors including your return policies on the product they buy.

It is unfortunate that your customer made a scene. Studies have shown that customers who are the most obnoxious have the least impact on customer service departments when it comes to a win/win resolution. This is because most customer service departments want to be helpful but are also tasked with upholding the company's purchase policies.Abusive or obnoxious people have a lot more to lose then gain.Polite customers get a lot better results when there is a problem. When a customer is polite and tries to find a good resolution, the chances are good that the business knows they can retain that customer. When a customer is obnoxious or abusive, the business knows that they will never hear from that customer again and will also prefer not to have further business dealings with them.

Most of the time the Better Business Bureau will try to be fair to both the business and the customer. If you did everything correctly from working with the customer and warning her of your published policies in advance it makes sense that they would support you. You may want to consider putting together a little booklet about your return policies and slipping it into the bags of customers that you feel might not be listening or could be a concern.

The majority of hair consumers understand that when they made the decision to try new products that it is at their own risk. I personally have about 100 different shampoos and conditioners in my bathroom that I have tried out over the past year. Some were very expensive and some were not. Some worked well for my hair and some were horrible. Unless a product is obviously damaged or has some foreign object in it I would never consider trying to return the products that I opened and used since it was my decision to try the products in the first place. Most hair consumers feel the same way and they understand the risk.

Of course hair type and texture has an impact. This is where you come in. By talking to a prospective customer about their hair type and texture you can help them make a better educated guess on what products might work for them. If they chose to ignore your advice than again, you did your very best.

Most people understand when testing a new product line not to buy more than one product from that new line at any one time. That way it minimizes the investment and overall risk.

Ebay has several pages of shampoo and hair care products listed for resell and trade.This is a wonderful way for consumers who want to try out new products to have a win/win. If they buy a product that they don't like they can sell it or trade it for a product they like for equal or better. Not only can hair product testers make new friends, they can try lots of new products on a rotating basis.

I am sure the false rumors are painful for you. If you believe you did the right and ethical thing then don't feel bad. Look at the bright side, at least someone is talking about you and often controversial information will attract more customers than if no one says a word about you. Know that your good customers will continue to come to your store and just remember to do your very best on a daily basis. That is all you can do. Yes, you can probably go after her for slander but do you want to lower yourself to her level? Even if you get a restraining order, she will still probably spread untrue rumors and it will cost you legal fees to boot.

Please email me the name and location of your shop and if I am ever in town I am going to make it a point to come and shop with at your store.

Best wishes,

Karen

November 4, 2002
Hair Shape?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have a new hairstylist who seems to want to teach me all about hair. Recently she told me that my naturally wavy hair has a oval shape. Does this make sense or was I not paying good attentions?

Just Curious Connie
Via Email

Answer

Dear Connie,

Your stylist is correct. As a general rule, hair has one of three basic shapes. As the hair grows from the scalp, it assumes the shape, size and direction of the follicle. Under a microscope hair will generally look like the following:

1. Straight hair appears to have a round shape
2. Wavy hair appears oval
3. Curly or kinky hair is flat

Although hair generally follows this trend, there is no absolute rule. In same cases straight hair might appear oval while wavy hair might appear round. For the most part hair follows the trends explained above.

Best wishes,

Karen

November 3, 2002
Hair Extension Licensing Requirements?

Question

Dear Karen,

I love anything to do with hair extensions. I want to go to school to learn to apply them. However, I do not have a hairstyling license and I do not want to spend time going to school to be a hairstylist since I only want to work with extensions.

Can you please suggest a list of hair extension schools?

Rhonda
Via Email

Answer

Dear Rhonda,

Anyone who works with hair in any way, whether it be styling, braiding or applying hair extensions, must first go to beauty school and pass a state licensing process. Although the states vary a little, all of the states in the United States agree on this requirement.

If you are serious about going to a school to learn to work with hair extensions and you wish to work on clients, you will be required to first go to beauty school and obtain your license.

Best wishes,

Karen

November 2, 2002
Hairstylist Is MIA

Question

Dear Karen,

My hairstylist of the past 4 years suddenly disappeared from the salon she has been working at. When I called for an appointment the manager suggested another stylist. The manager would not tell me where my stylist went or how to reach her.When I asked if I could leave a message for her, the manager got very huffy.

I decided to go to a different salon but would love to find my stylist. Any suggestions?

Susan
Sante Fe, New Mexico

Answer

Dear Susan,

You have stumbled into the long standing controversy of what happens when a stylist leaves a salon. Some salons believe that they own the ultimate rights to the clients even if the stylist leaves. Other salons believe that the stylist owns her clients and is free to take them with them.

It sounds like the salon where your stylist works believes that you should stay with the salon even if your stylist has gone. You have already decided to leave the salon and go to another establishment which is perfectly OK if that works best for you.

Many stylists will contact their loyal clients after they leave a salon if they are legally able to do so. Unfortunately this may take some time for your stylist to catch up with you. Since the salon is unwilling to help you find your stylist you will need to try other techniques while you are waiting to hear from your stylist.

Start by looking her up in the phone book to see if she is listed. Then call her at her published number, if she has one, and politely inquire to the location of her new salon. You might also contact friends or acquaintances that shared your stylist to see if they have any information to share on her new whereabouts.

If you can't locate your stylist through the phone book, try doing a search on the Web.Sometimes stylists will participate in hair related websites and their emails will be listed in some of the people finder sites. HairBoutique.com has many stylists who visit on a daily basis and participate in some of the consumer hair forums.

Finally, you can contact the state cosmetology board to find out if your stylist has changed her licensing information. This is a long shot but may work in some cases.

Can you try to get information from the other stylists at the former salon?Unfortunately if the salon's management believes that they own the clientele, it would put the remaining stylists in jeopardy if you pressed them for information.

I know that losing a stylist is always difficult. Be patient, take your time in your search and hopefully you will be reunited with your stylist in short order.

Best wishes,

Karen

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