Ask Karen - March 2001

March 20 2001
Beeswax - Removing From Hair?

Question

Dear Karen

I have read in the past in some of your fine articles that I should only use a beeswax product on my hair if I wanted to keep my dreadlocks permanently.

I also know that you advised that once dreadlocks have been set into hair that it would be difficult, if not impossible, to remove them.

Knowing all this information I started my "temporary" dreads with Redken's WaterWax product. The wax helped my temporary dreads form, but not as tightly as I wanted.

So I then decided to buy the KnottyBoy wax that you sell and I loved it.

I would use a little for weekend hairstyles and then make sure I got it all out by Monday for work. It was a bit of work to remove the wax but it really was worth it for the look that I achieved.

Now I have a problem. I went on vacation to the Bahamas with my boyfriend and he loved the "temporary" dreadlock look. I used the KnottyBoy wax and he loved the results. I spent the entire week laying on the beach and soaking in the sun.

When I got back to work my boss was not happy. He told me that as a front desk person I needed to have a neater style of hairdo. I do work for a group of conservative attorneys so I understand his concerns.

Now I am having a terrible time getting the wax out of my hair. I don't want to cut it all off but I do want the wax removed. Can you please help me with some suggestions?

I totally admit that this was a bad decision on my part but now I am really upset about my hair.

Anything you can recommend would be a blessing. Thank you so much in advance.

Tanya

Answer

Dear Vanessa,

I was recently talking with Adrianna from KnottyBoy about the emails that I receive from people who had decided not to keep their dreadlocks after they have actually used beeswax on their hair. Adrianna reminded me that cutting out the dreads is usually the only solution.

However, since HairBoutique.com sells and advocates the use of the KnottyBoy products I went to the source, namely Adrianna, to discuss your current waxy problem.

Adrianna again reminded me that "people who are only interested in temporary dreadlock styles should not be using Knotty Boy Dread Wax." As Adrianna explained, Knotty Boy "is a beeswax-based product which is very water repellent. It makes it good for dreadlock wearers because it allows the wearers to still wash their scalps without undoing the new locks. It is bad for people only wishing to experiment or have the dreadlock look for one night or a few days.".

Adrianna reiterated "please don't use the Knotty Boy products unless you really want full-blown dreadlocks - it works fast!"

Although Adrianna said that it is possible the KnottyBoy wax will only come out with a cut, she did say that you can try to wash the KnottyBoy wax out of your hair by using very hot water.

Note: Please be careful not to burn yourself, but use as hot of water as you can handle and try to soften the wax as much as possible. Adrianna then recommended that after you use hot water to soften the wax that you use Bee & Flower Chinese bar soap you can get in Chinatowns everywhere on your hair. The soap can help, in many cases, to wash the rest of the wax out. If you can't find the Chinese Bee & Flower soap then use a good bar soap.

If the hot water, Chinese Bee & Flower soap fails, you can also try ProSolv orange scented cleaner you can purchase at Wal-Mart. Adrianna warned me that she didn't personally have any direct experience with the ProSolv removal method but she did hear that it worked in many cases. The bad news is that the ProSolv, is not designed for use on human hair and can potentially damage it or dry it out. So you may get the wax out but still have some damage as a result of the cleaner.

One final tip that was sent to me by a hairstylist in California which involved wax paper and an iron. Jay, the hairstylist, told me that he uses old fashioned wax paper to remove wax from the hair. Jay had his client with wax in her hair, lean over an ironing board. Jay put a cloth down on the ironing board followed by wax paper. He had the client lay the waxy surface of her hair on the wax paper. Then Jay added wax paper to the top of the hair. He in essence made a sandwich out of wax paper with the hair in the middle. Then he used an iron set on medium to carefully apply heat to the hair through the wax paper.

Jay reported that the iron slowly melted the wax in the hair and then the wax paper absorbed it. Although it took quite some time, Jay said that he got a large percentage of the wax out of the hair using his iron method. The heat from the iron softened the wax and this allowed the paper to absorb it. The rest of the wax was carefully combed or picked out of the hair.

I have heard that the best way to remove wax from clothing is to use the wax paper/iron method. So I guess using it on hair is not that unusual. However, there is danger that the heat from the iron could damage the hair.

I hope these different tips help. Please let me know so I can add your results to my files.

Best wishes,

Karen

March 12, 2001
Polycycstic Ovarian Disease & Hair Problems

Question

Dear Karen

I was just diagnosed with a disease that is called Polycystic Ovaria Syndrome. It is also known as PCOS. What I was told was that PCOS is a hormone disorder that can contribute to hair problems such as hair loss and thinning as well as itchy and flaky scalp. Never mind the other possibilities that can result from PCOS. My concern at this point is my hair. I have noticed that it is definitely thinner than it was even one year ago.

What can you tell me about PCOS and have you heard of the link between the disease and hair and scalp problems? Do you have any recommendations on how to treat the problem?

Thanks,

Vanessa

Answer

Dear Vanessa,

I am so sorry to hear of your condition. Yes, I have heard a lot about PCOS and have read quite a bit about it over the past 2 years.

A lot of research on the disease, which affects women, has been down by Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. I have also read that there is a strong link between PCOS and a weakening of the hair follicles resulting in thinning, hair loss and possible scalp problems.

I read an interview about one year ago with renowned British tichologist Philip Kingsley (020 7629 4004) who commented that PCOS is thought to cause a decrease in the actual size of the hair follicle which results in a weakened and thinning condition.

While hair problems are indeed serious. Even more alarming about PCOS is the other problems it can cause from obesity and skin problems to infertility and other hormonal problems. PCOS is actually more common than many people think. It has been reported that as many as 1 in 100 women have the hormonal disorder. Most women may not even be aware of this disease until they experience problems in other areas.

How do you find out if you have PCOS? Visit a gynecologist or internist and ask them to discuss any possible symptoms. If there is a good cause for concern they will do testing.

If you have been diagnosed with PCOS and are having hair problems you should see a specialty that can help you control hair loss. Philip Kingsley also has offices in New York and has been known to treat many people, including Candice Bergen, Mick Jagger, Cher, Jerry Hall and Barbara Streisand, for scalp and hair problems. He is definitely the leading authority on hair health and has been a trichologist for over 35 years.

Whether in or out of the public eye, all come to Philip Kingsley for a common purpose: healthy, beautiful hair.

For information about Philip or his clinics in New York or London you can call the number listed above. Philip also works with other trichologists who can schedule appointments if Philip is not available.

What is the most common indicator of PCOS? Irregular periods.

Best wishes,

Karen

March 11, 2001
Perm Problems

Question

Dear Karen

All of my friends convinced me to get a perm. Not only did my hair look weird, it got super dry. Is this normal? What can I do? Can you recommend a good deep conditioner?

Thanks,

Tom

Answer

Dear Tom,

Unfortunately everyone experiences a perm differently depending on a wide range of hair factors. These factors include the condition of your hair before you had the perm, the type of perm that is used and whether you had a perm designed to add volume, texture or a combination.

Many people do experience a drying of their hair right after a perm. This is because perms are strong chemicals that can definitely impact the hair cuticle and cause a drying.

All is not lost. A good series of deep conditioning treatments that you do at home or have done at the salon can help a lot. I personally recommend Phytokarite Intensive Treatment or Phytojoba Intense Hydrating Mask or Phyto - Phytocitrus Mask - Vital Radiance Mask.

I also love the conditioning of Phyto's Phytosesame Conditioning Treatment. Phytologie makes a great leave in conditioner that will help smooth over any rough spot. Check out Phytologie's #7 or #9 leave in conditioners.

Trying using a good moisturizing product regime for a few weeks to see if your hair recovers its natural moisture.

If all else fails you can consider having the most dry or damaged parts of your hair removed.

Best wishes,

Karen

March 10, 2001
Towel Drying Hair

Question

Dear Karen

My mom told me that if I towel dry my hair that I will damage it. My hairstylist disagrees and says if I blot rather than rub my hair, it will be fine. So now I am confused. What is the real answer?

Thanks,

Jon

Answer

Dear Jon,

Your hairstylist is correct. The key word is gentle when dealing with wet or damp hair. It is important to remember that hair is most fragile when it is wet. That means that if you carefully use a towel to blot, not rub, your hair, you should be fine. So many people remember the old TV commercials where hair was rubbed vigorously with a towel. This was not a good image to share since rubbing wet hair with a towel could tend to cause breakage.

Use your towel to remove excess water that can weigh your hair down when you try to style it. However, wrap the towel carefully around your hair and gently squeeze the water from your hair.

Best wishes,

Karen

March 8, 2001
Balayage - Highlighting With A Comb?

Question

Dear Karen

Have you heard of balayage? I have been trying to find out what it is and how it relates to coloring hair. I understand it originated somewhere in Europe? What can you tell me about it? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Sarah

Answer

Dear Sarah,

Balayage originated in France and is a new type of highlighting technique for hair. Because the technique involves using a comb to add the colors, the results tend to be more natural than when foils or a cap method is used to highlight hair. The Balayage method is highlights that are applied with a comb. When using a comb to add "sun kissed" color, you can have more control over the outcome. This method also allows the colorist to control the intensity of the color that is applied to the hair.

How does it actually work? For a natural effect color is applied using a com to any areas of the hair that is normally lightened by the sun. Generally highlights are combed into the front of the hair and around the face, where the sun would naturally have an impact. Heat is applied for a few minutes, usually less than 5, and this brings out the color.

As the color is combed into the hair, adjacent strands may be touched which gives the look a more realistic hue.

Another advantage of the Balayage method is the fact that because it is so subtle, there is no obvious root growth.

To book an appointment to have the Balayage method applied to your hair call the Michealjohn salon in England. You can reach the Michaeljohn Salon at 020 7499 7529.

Unfortunately I have not heard of the Balayage method being used in the United States. However, call some color experts and they should be able to advise you if they know about the method.

Best wishes,

Karen

March 5, 2001
Drew Barrymore Hair Products?

Question

Dear Karen

I just loved Drew Barrymore in Charlie's Angels. Any idea what hair care product she uses to get good scrunching of her hair?

Thanks,

Donna

Answer

Dear Donna,

I know that Drew is a fan of the Fudge Skrewd product. She has been reported to use it when she wears her hair with maximum curls. The bad news about Drew is that she changes her hair so often it is hard to keep up with the many different products she uses. I do know that she liked the results that Fudge Skrewd gave her hair for maximum bounce.

Best wishes,

Karen

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