Ask Karen - January 2001

Question - Best Glass Frames For Face Shape?

Dear Karen,

Now that I have figured out that my face shape is mostly oval with a square jaw and chin line, I am ready to go shopping for the correct eye glass frames.

Can you please provide tips on which frames would be best for me and my face?

Samantha

Answer

Dear Samantha,

Since you have a combination face, you may wish to consider frames that flatter both an oval face with a lower square jaw and chin line.

Listed below are the types of frames that work for each face shape. It is important to realize that indeed most face shapes are not "perfect" and can be a combination of more than one classic shape.

Which means it is possible to have an oval face that is also rectangular or a round face with a square jaw or pointed heart shaped chin.

When selected glass frames for either regular glasses or sunglasses consider the following flattering face shape options:

Oval Shaped Face - This face shape can carry off any size or shape of frames. Select glass frames that reflect your current image. If you are going for a glam look, select an oval shape. Take the size of the frames up a notch to achieve that Old Hollywood look. Or select a rectangular shape for a more serious look.

Round Shaped Face - The key is to minimize the roundness of your face shape. Avoid rounded or circular frames that may make your face appear more rounded than it really is. Instead, consider face slimming shapes like butterfly or cat's eyes.

Square Shaped Face - Balance a square face shape with oval or rectangular shapes.

Heart Shaped Face - This face shape tends to look best in round or oval aviators or sassy wraparound that draw attention away from your traditional prominent chin.

Rectangular Shaped Face - Break up a long face with glass frames that have a combination shape between round and oval

If your face shape is a combination of more than one shape, select glasses that balance and minimize.

When selecting glass frames take a friend or loved one with you and try on several different styles before making your final decision.

When in doubt, ask for guidance from the sales consultant at the eyeglass store.

Best wishes,

Karen

January 3, 2001

Question - Stubborn Gray Hair -
Give Up Or What?

Dear Karen,

How about a tip or two for people like me that are dealing with graying hair. I am currently letting it grow in (naturally, it's about 50/50 now- black and silver). I've decided to let it grow all the way out and start over, I don't think I'm ready let it go gray for good.

I've tried several coloring options, the simplest being dying it its original color, but the upkeep now is too hard on my hair (straight and fine) and the gray doesn't hold the dye well and slips into various shades of red as it fades to tinsel like gold colors.

I've tried going lighter, but my hair grows fast and I'm fighting two tone roots. OK...I'm 47 years old, by no means an old lady. Should I just give up and try those new gray hair brighteners or can you come up with a better solution for me.

Donna

Answer

Dear Donna,

By all means keep exploring your options before you decide to just accept the new gray hair brighteners. There are still options you may not be aware of including pretreating gray hair to make it easier to accept and hold various colors.

Last year I interviewed a great colorist, Henry Amador, for HairBoutique.com. During the interview I specifically asked Henry to give me some tips for dealing with coloring gray hair. When I explained that many people want to get rid of gray hair and don't know the best approach, Henry had some great suggestions. Henry told me that the hair industry is seeing a lot of baby boomers who are now putting their focus on dealing with their gray hair. This includes men and as well as women.

Henry told me that gray hair can be very tricky to deal with because gray hair has a different texture than hair that is not gray. Because gray hair basically has no pigment, it has a very coarse texture that is tough. Consequently it is difficult to apply color to gray hair and get results if the gray hair is not first "pre-treated".

As Henry explained it, part of the trick to coloring gray hair and getting the color to stick, is to pre-soften those tough wiry gray hairs. Please note that it is best to have a professional colorist or stylist do the pre-treatment for you. This pre-treatment is not advised for at home use.

Henry recommends that gray hair be pre-softened by a colorist or stylist who can apply a 20% peroxide solution to "pop open the hair cuticle" and soften the hair so that it will easily accept any color that is applied. When Henry does this treatment he applies the peroxide, combs it through the hair, leaves it on for 5-10 minutes, depending on the client, and then rinses it off. Then he applies the desired color.

Henry explained that is someone is 50% gray they will definitely need to pre-soften their hair or any color that is applied will not cover well because of the texture of the gray hair. Henry said that with gray hair you can color it completely and keep your original natural color or you can just cover the gray hair and not color the complete head.

A lot depends on the state in life that you are in with regard to your gray hair. Some people only want to color the gray while others want to color the entire head. It is purely a personal thing.

Another key factor in dealing with gray hair is to understand that to successfully color gray hair you need to make sure that you apply a color that has a gold base. Gold is a primary pigment in all hair color. A medium golden shade will provide good color coverage to most gray.

A good colorist or stylist can help you pick the shade that is right for you.

Best wishes,

Karen

By submitting your question, you grant HairBoutique.com permission to publish it. Due to the volume of mail we receive, Karen regrets that she cannot respond to every question. To Ask Karen your questions send e-mail to askkaren@hairboutique.com