Ask Karen - February 2004

I heard somewhere that there is a home recipe you can make to condition hair using butter and milk. It is supposed to really soften super dry strands. Although I love to splurge on the great conditioners from Phyto and Rene Furterer I also like to try some home formulas to stretch my conditioning dollars. Any ideas where I might find this formula?

One recipe that seems to be popular with Europeans does involve softened butter and margarine blended with cream or milk and a regular deep conditioning product. The idea behind this formula is to enrich the chosen deep conditinong product.

This recipe is designed to deep condition and soften the most damaged and dry strands. This mixture does tend to be a bit messy so be sure to lay down some old bath towels before applying to your strands.

4 ounces of any type of regular soft margarine (skip the low fat or diet spreads since you want the oils)
2 ounces of pre-softened butter
6 ounces of true cream
6 ounces of deep hair conditioner (any kind will do)

Separate your hair into 2-3 inch sections and then apply the mixture with your fingers, a rubber spatula or cotton balls.

Apply the mixture from the top of the ears down to the ends. Avoid applying the mixture near the roots.

After you have completely saturated your strands with the Butter Conditioning Mix wrap strands in plastic wrap or a clean plastic shower cap. Either wrap a newly warmed towel over the top or sit under a hood dryer for 30 minutes.

Rinse the treatment out of your hair, shampoo lightly, rinse well and finish with a cool water rinse. Use a good detangling cream or leave-in conditioner. Style as normal.

If you enjoy the results, repeat on an "as needed" basis. If you would like to experiment further, try adding 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of almond oil to the mix for added softeness.

I have seen countless questions and articles in magazines and on websites about people that want to have fuller hair, but I have never seen an article about people that have too much hair!

I want a way to get my wavy hair under control wouthout using too many products!

I am on a VERY low budget! Also, when I read articles about getting sleek hair it mentions blow-drying, I do not blow-dry my hair because previously when I have tried to it makes it even bigger and takes a looong time since my hair is sooo thick!

A little information on my hair, it is about chest length, I have colored it a few times, but I have vowed to never again! Any help you could give me would be

In actuality there are just as many people who struggle with too much hair as those that struggle with not enough.

1. Get a haircut that is designed to thin out the thickness and help the hair to lay sleekly. Not every hairstylist has the ability to cut hair that is too thick because it is really an art. However, a talented stylist with the right skill set can help to thin hair that is too heavy. Take your time, ask around, and find a stylist that specializes in dealing with thick strands.

2. Wear hair no longer than a bob, or very long. Hair that is super thick is most manageable when it is either shorter, because it looks less bulky, or much longer, because the weight of the longer strands weighs the hair down.

Wavy hair also tends to do very well when it is longer because the weight of the hair tends to flatten the waves.

3. Consider getting your hair relaxed, but not straightened. Getting hair relaxed helps it to bend and be more liquid, which ultimately helps the strands to nestle better together.

Relaxing also helps to soften waves and control frizz. Unfortunately the professional home relaxing kits like those from Phyto generally cost around $60. Relaxing may cost even more at a salon when done by a professional stylist.

With your tight budget having your hair relaxed may not currently be an option for you. While there are some relaxing products available from grocery and drug stores, they do not tend to work as well, or last as long. They also may be more harsh and could actually cause more dryness and frizz. I definitely do not recommend that you go the relaxing route unless you can have it done by a stylist or use a professional style kit.

4. Avoid hair color. Hair color tends to swell the hair shaft making hair appear even bigger. Since you have sworn off coloring your hair for now, that is a great decision.

5. Use a good defrisant product to help hair lay sleeker and less frizzy. While Phytodefrisant is considered the absolute best product on the market today, John Frieda also makes one that is probably more affordable for your budget and available from grocery stores.

While it is true that the professional lines do a great job like Phyto and Kerastase and Rene Furterer, it is possible to find decent products in the grocery store lines if you take your time and read all the labels.

You can also dilute shampoo to prevent it from drying hair out which causes it to ultimately frizz and be way too big. Dilute shampoo with 1 part shampoo to 3 parts warm water mixed in a clean plastic cup or bottle and shaken well.

Adding moisture softens big hair and helps it lay smoother and closer together. It also banishes frizz. You don't have to spend a fortune to find a good moisture enhancing product. Buy grocery or drug store brands that advertise on the bottle that they add or create moisture.

You can also experiment with home hot oil conditioning treatments like sesame, extra virgin olive or almond oil. Home hot oil treatments will add moisture to parched or moisture starved strands, making hair softer, less frizzy and more manageable.

Buy the oil, heat it until warm, apply it to your strands approximately 1 inch from the roots, wrap in plastic wrap or a shower cap and then let it sit for about 1 hour.

To remove the olive or other oils, apply a tiny dab of shampoo to the palms of your hands and then pat on top of the oil BEFORE you apply water. The shampoo will cut the oil. Then apply water, suds and rinse well. Apply a good rinse out conditioner and then a leave-in. Again, these can be found inexpensively.

7. Avoid any type of layered styles. Cutting in layers makes hair actually look fuller and bigger.

8. Wear hair braided. When hair is wet, braid it into a tight braid. This will help to contain the hair when it is dry.

Keep in mind that your hair will be bigger when you undo the braid but this will help keep it neat during the day. You can also experiment with buns which will contain the hair as well.

9. Avoid washing hair in hot water and if possible, allow your hair to "age" a few days between shampoos. This allows natural oils to accumulate and soften frizz.

10. Experiment with a variety of hair accessories that will help hold down the volume of your hair. Try large volume barrettes, thick elastic bands and jaw claw clips. Karina makes a fabulous line of inexpensive but very functional hair accessories.

When done correctly and using the correct products, blow drying hair can definitely make it sleek, straight and less wavy.

1. Start by using a moisture enhancing shampoo. Keep in mind that you may wish to dilute the shampoo that you select so that it is less harsh on your strands.

2. Use a moisture enhancing rinse out conditioner. Be sure to focus the conditioner or the driest part of your strands and keep the conditioner approximately 1 inch away from your roots. This allows the conditioner to be focused on the part of your strands that need it the most.

5. Apply a good leave-in conditioner or detangling spray w/ conditioning properties.

8. Apply a good defrisant product. Yes, it is OK to use a defrisant product on top of a detangling or leave-in conditioning product. The products will work together to help you achieve the ultimate sleek look you desire.

Be sure to only work on one section at a time. Take a paddle style brush (Conair has a good one that is very well priced) and anchor the strand from the ends. Blow dry with a special concentrator, if possible. Direct the air DOWN the shaft from the roots to the ends rather than from the end to the roots. When the air goes DOWN the shaft, it helps the strands to lay flatter. Remember that blowing the air up the shaft ruffles the cuticles and will make hair bigger.

8. Work slowly around your head one section at a time and blow dry until the hair is 100% dry. Hair that frizzes is often not 100% dry OR needs more moisture.

9. Never blow dry your hair upside down. This will cause the cuticles to swell and look even bigger.

10. When finished, apply a little dab of defrisant into the palms of your hands OR a serum to add shine and then lightly glide your hands across the top of your hair.

Every stylist and colorist has their own hairspeak that may or may not be clear to the clients. The majority of hair pros that I have talked to over the years really care about helping their clients find their ideal color and style. In the future, if you are feeling confused when discussing a potential treatment with your hair care professional, ask them politely to please explain in more detail so you are clear about what they are recommending.

There are actually a myriad of coloring techniques that colorists use to achieve a soft, believable blonde.

Highlighting simply means to infuse light into the existing color. Depending on what you wish to achieve, the skill of the hair colorist and current hair fashions, highlights can range from tiny, delicate strokes to bold, random stripes or chunks. Highlights can also combine a series of compatible colors. Thus a blonde could have lighter blonde hues mixed with light and dark red colors for a stunning result. A redhead might go with lighter and darker ruby tones mixed with some blonde tones.

Lowlighting means to enrich or intensify natural darker tones. Therefore a colorist might apply actual highlights and lowlights in the same treatment with the low lights bringing our rich darker tones and hues.

Color chunking has actually been around since the mid 90s when Brad Johns who was formerly at the Oribe Salon in NYC use contrasting blocks of color, not fine streaks, to achieve a natural looking just-home-from-the-beach blonde.

Over the years many new highlighting techniques have popped up including color quilting which was perfected by Henry Amador in Florida at the Elite Group (954-779-2821), baylage by the Siggers Salon in Atlanta and color strapping from the genius haircolorists at Paul Mitchell.

Generally speaking most of the blonding techniques are designed around making blonde soft and believable. Blonde is best when it is low maintenance, healthy and grows out with minimal rootage.

The good news is that you found a professional colorist that appeared very knowledgeable. Once you find a good colorist that you value, hang on tight because they are a good find.

Karen Shelton

February 8, 2004
Prom Hair Problems

Question

Dear Karen,

Where do you suggest that I go to get ideas for how to wear my hair for my Prom which is coming up in June of this year? I have found my dress and accessories but am not sure where to get styling ideas.

Thanks,

Tiffany

Answer

Dear Tiffany,

The good news is that you have lots of time left to find your dream Prom hairstyle. The bad news is that it will take a little effort and research.

Listed below are some great places to search for special event hairstyle ideas:

1. Golden Globe, Grammy & Oscar Award Shows. All of the celebs have the very best hairdressers, stylists and makeup artists work and are perfectly coiffed for any formal hair event. Pay attention to the prominent hair themes. In 2003 the hot style was the polished chignon. For 2004 it is curls, waves and lots of gorgeous hair accessories like ultra chic headbands, jeweled hair combs and a range of flowers.

2. Hair magazines like 101 Celebrity Hairstyles, Short Cuts and similar often have Clip & Save pages with a range of styles that you can snip for future reference. Or do as I do and use little colored stick on flags to mark pages with styles you love. Not only can you use the styles as reference, you can take them with you when you visit your stylist for your pre-Prom consultation.

3. Surf the Internet. Sites like HairBoutique.com have an extensive collection of Prom, Wedding and updo articles with step by step information. HairBoutique.com also has an extensive Gallery of styles that can be viewed right online at no cost.

4. Read the fashion magazines like InStyle, Cosmo, Glamour, Allure and Marie Claire for hot hair trends in the fashion world.

5. Check out the weekly fashion section in your newspaper for hot fashion trends.

6. Check out the annual prom magazines that hit the magazine stands every year for specific Prom hair tips.

7. Ask your friends to share any of their magazine updo or Prom hair clippings for additional ideas.

8. Channel surf for great ideas. Watch shows like the OC to see what Mischa Barton's latest styles encompass. Keep track of your favorite celebrities like Jessica and Ashlee Simpson and watch how their styles change.

Another great idea is to start a Prom hair notebook. Write down hairstyling ideas, todos and wishes. Attach images that you find of celebrities with dressy hair styles that you like. Not only does a notebook keep your organized as you track your ideal Prom style but you can take the notebook with you when you visit your stylist to discuss how you want them to style your hair for the big night.

Best wishes,

Karen

February 4, 2003
Ponytail Problems?

Question

Karen,

Maybe you can answer my question. Why is it that when celebrities like Jessica Simpson and Jennifer Lopez wear ponytails they always look sleek, silky and totally healthy while my own ponies look super messy and unhealthy. Hair pop out all over and I look like I slept in my pony. What am I doing wrong?

I appreciate your help greatly.

Tamy

Answer

Dear Tamy,

One secret about Jessica Simpson and Jennifer Lopez is that they often share the same hairdresser. Celebrity hairdresser Ken Paves who often travels with Jessica to do her hair, also does JLo's tresses when joint schedules permit.

Although ponytails look like a very easy style, the highly polished ones are actually harder to create than they look. And yes, they take some advance planning and a couple of pair of hands. Many people don't realize that celebrities can have those super high flirty tails because someone else is lifting the hair ends high in the air to get the right positioning of the base of the pony on the head.

When Ken is planning to coif Jessica's hair into a sleek ponytail from scratch, he blow dries her fine strands perfectly straight with the help of his favorite Mason Pearson Popular boar's head brush. Ken then straight irons all Jess's tresses to make sure that all the kinks and waves are completely removed, applying some additional styling finesse by brushing her hair several strokes. Before he creates the actual tail he applies a spritz of Phytolaque Soie (Jessica's favorite hairspray) to help hold the hairs in place.

Brushing all strands back from the crown, Ken will ask Jessica to hold the newly formed pony in place with her fingers while he tightly wraps one of his favorite bungees the same color as Jessica's hair around the base of the pony. He finished up with a quick touch up of curling iron on the ends to give a flirty little flounce or curl and a final spritz of Phytolaque Soie (as shown above). When appropriate he will add a jewel encrusted pony elastic or other accessory to Jessica's finished style.

If all that hair preparation seems like a lot of work just to create a ponytail, you are right. It is time consuming.

If you want to shave some time off the ponytail prep time, you can cheat the clock by starting with day old hair that has had a little time to accumulate some natural shine producing oils. Aged hair is also less slippery and will stay put better than freshly washed hair. Use a boar's head brush to smooth hair up and back towards the crown of the head. Then make sure hair is pulled tightly into the base and held by a bungee or a Blax band so that loose hair will not slip out. You may want to touch up your strands with a straight iron to help eliminate kinks and hair wrinkles.

Remember to use good styling and finishing products to keep hair neatly coiffed. Finally, a beautiful hair accessory always helps to elevate a style to a whole new level.

Best wishes,
Karen Shelton

February 1, 2004
Hair Color Confusions

Question

Dear Karen,

I am sooooo over my hair. It is long, to my bra strap with a bit of a natural wave that I blow dry straight. I want a new look but am afraid that if I go really short my hair will get too wavy. Do you have any suggestions of how I can mix up my hairlook without going with a major chop?

Thanks in advance,

Linda

Answer

Dear Linda,

Curls and waves are very hot for 2004. Why not instantly change your style by changing the texture? Instead of blowing your hair straight, why not reach for a long finger diffuser and blow dry your hair to encourage lots of luscious waves?

Other ways that you can instantly change your look without getting a cut include the following techniques:

1. Change your front fringe or bangs. You can add them, change the way you wear your current bangs or grow them out.

2. Change your part. Experiment with a deep side part or a zig zag or even a new center part. Changing the part instantly gives hair a fresh new look.

3. Add highlights around your face. This will open up and lighten your look without a major color expense.

4. If you always wear your hair down, consider wearing it up in a series of new ponytails, braids and half up/half down dos.

5. Add different hair accessories and toys to instantly add new interest in your locks.

If boredom overtakes you and you still feel the need to go for a chop, keep in mind that naturally wavy and curly hair does spring to life when there it is shorter because there is no weight from long strands keeping it in check.

Best wishes,

Karen

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