Ask Karen - December 1999 

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December 25, 1999
Best Style For Long Thin Face?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have a long slender face (oval) and I want to know what kind of hairstyle would look good!

My hair is straight! It goes down to my breast at the moment and it is layered! I don't know what to do with it!

I also want to color it! Its a medium blonde with natural highlights!

My main question is what hair styles look good with my shape of face?

Can you send me some pictures! Or if not that is okay!!!

Thank you very much,    

Jessica

Answer

Dear Jessica,

There is a difference between an oval face and a long face.  The shape as not the same.

An oval shaped face is neither too wide nor too long.  The jawline is in proportion to the forehead.  If your face is really oval, the majority of hair styles look very good on an oval face. 

Most oval faces can carry off styles that emphasizes the cheekbones or you can carry off outrageous edgy styles. 

Because an oval face is so balance it can handle varying angles and color that can make the style stunning.

If your face is long and slender, it tends to have a long, narrow bone structure.  Often. long slender faces have broader necks.

If you have a long face bangs will make your face instantly appear shorter. 

Also, bangs that are brushed across the forehead will reduce the length.   Long slender faces do best with styles that are cut either around or above the cine line.  A short wavy bob will add width to a very thin face.

December 24, 1999
Best Style For Chubby/Round Face?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have a very round face and want to slenderize it as much as possible with my hairstyle.  I have shoulder length hair, and am open to suggestions or photos that you may have.

I would love to grow my hair longer but am not sure that it is OK with a round face.  What do you think?  Is there a right length or a right style?

Thanks for your help.

Aimee

Answer

Dear Aimee,

There are a lot of opinions about the best styles to wear for a round face. 

Many hair experts believe that you should slenderize it by adding tendrils or hair that hugs the cheeks.  Some hair experts believe that you should instead add lots of height to the crown area with layered hair.

A lot depends on the texture of your hair.  Is it straight, wavy, curly, thick or thin?  The texture of your hair will also determine the best way to wear your hair for your face shape.

I just want to encourage you to find a look that works best for you and that you feel comfortable wearing.  After all, you have to leave with the results.

There is not right hair length for a round face.  Or for any face shape.  The right length is the length that you want to wear.  All hairstyles can be modified to enhance the face shape.

LongFringsDrA200.jpg (2934 bytes)The first style that is shown is from Beauty Guide's Wedding & Long Hair Guide.  I personally love this style for rounder faces (I have a round face shape myself) with medium to longer hair. 

This style looks great with or without the long fringe of hair hanging on the face.   I personally prefer for both eyes to be visible, but the "Veronica Lake" of hair over one eyes was very popular recently.

This style works very well for thick or even naturally wavy hair.  The style have a long feathery graduated look that seamlessly blends the shorter layers in the bangs and the crown down to the shoulders. 

gallery005t.jpg (2887 bytes)This graduated layered style (shown from the Hair Boutique Women's Gallery) can be dried straight and sleek using a good paddle brush or it can be "scrunched to show off any natural waves.

This style also looks fabulous with subtle but well placed highlights around the face and the edges of the bangs.

As you can see, it slims the face.

Another option when searching for your ideal hairstyle for your face type is to identify some stars that you admire who have round faces and then watch to see how they wear their hair.  Emma or Baby Spice of the Spice Girls has a very round face and has been known to wear all sorts of different hairstyles that both slenderize and flatter her face shape.

gallery808t.jpg (2960 bytes)If you prefer a shorter look choose layered bangs rather than ones which are straight and heavy. 

Short styles which give height work the very best.

If you have curly or wavy hair keep the sides or your hair short and use the curls or wave  to create height.

gallery027t.jpg (2829 bytes)A round face is generally as wide as it is long.  Therefore it is not recommended that you adopt styles that will add even more width to your face. 

Stay away from big curls or waves that fall at or below the cheekbones. Remember to only add the height at the crown and not at the sides of the face.

SuperShortA200.jpg (3091 bytes)Some round faces will do well with the "Bedhead" look which utilizes a short side area and height at the crown to add height.

Looks for styles that either elongate the neck area or softly de-emphasize it.

Remember that highlighting and color can be used to add slenderizing lines.  The look above from Remy of London is tipped with blonde highlights to add a beautiful eclectic vibrant look.

Just remember to take your time and feel OK about whatever look you do decide to adopt.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 23, 1999
Best Shampoo For Wavy Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have very frizzy wavy hair and I haven't found a shampoo that has helped any.  Can you help me.

Mary P.

Answer

Dear Mary,

I have naturally wavy hair and I have had fantastic luck with the following shampoos:

1. ARTec Smoothing

2. Aveda Shampure

3. Aubrey Organic Honeysuckle Rose

4. Aveda Blue Malva

There is no guarantee that these shampoos will work for you, but they do work for me.  

I have also found that the longer I let my hair grow, the easier it is to control the waves because the weight of the hair will keep the waves in check.

The other things that keep my hair from getting frizzy is weekly hot oil treatments using heated olive oil or Aveda's Beautifying Oil which has a high concentration of jojoba oil. 

Frizziness usually results from dry hair.  Keep it conditioned and moisturized and you should see improvements.

To keep hair super straight you have the option of applying a temporary straightener and using a paddle brush to blow dry your hair without waves.

Keep in mind that constant blow drying can potentially harm hair over time so try to limit how often you  blow dry your hair.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 22, 1999
Lower Priced Dandruff Shampoos?

Question

Dear Karen,

I love your site. Hair Boutique is head and shoulders above all the rest of the hair sites around.  

Which brings me to my concern.  I have dandruff.  It is not a terrible case, just a mild one.  I have read all the different dandruff articles you have on Hair Boutique and still have not found the answer I want.

Is there an off-the-shelf shampoo that will combat dandruff that does not smell like a medicine cabinet?  I can't really afford the high priced products like those made by Phytologie (although I know they are great).

What are some of the other brands that I can try for good results.

Thanks for much.

Ken

Answer

Dear Ken,

Dandruff seems to be a problem for so many people that there are a wide range of products to address all sorts of cases from very mild to severe.

The key to a product that will help is usually one that has a combination of zinc pyrithione (ZPT), ketoconazole (formerly a prescription treatment) and salicylic acid.  

Like everything else, you will have to try different brands to see what works best for your.

However, here is a list of the "off-the-shelf" products that my research has told me are fairly good at controlling dandruff and not medicinal in their aromas.

Since I do not have dandruff I can't really recommend a particular brand.  

My usual recommendation for an off-the-shelf solution is the Phytologie product but since that is out of your price range, here is a list of more moderately priced products (from least expensive to most expensive) to try (check Drugstore.com for brands you can buy online):

1.  Herbal Essences Anti-Dandruff Shampoo and Dry Scalp Conditioner.  The average cost is $2.99 for 12 ounces.  This product contains approximately 3 percent salicylic acid and is considered to be effective for mild cases of dandruff.  The product has a nice scent of iris and daisies and is made with chrysanthemum, Mulberry Root and Mountain Spring Water.

2.  Head & Shoulders Refresh.  Average cost of $3.99.  This product contains 1 percent of ZPT and is scented with peppermint.  Head & Shoulders were an early dandruff shampoo manufacturer in the war against dandruff and they keep making their products better.

3.  Pantene Pro-V Anti-Dandruff Shampoo.  Average cost is $3.19 (13 oz).  This product also contains 1 percent of ZPT.  The smell is fresh and clean just like the regular Pantene shampoo formulas.

4.  Redken Solve Anti-Dandruff Shampoo.  This product is more pricey at $9.90 a bottle.  However, it is made by Redken and I love their hair care products.  This product contains 1 percent of zinc pyrithione (ZPT) and the lather is rich and creamy.  The scent is clean and not medicated in any way. This product can be purchased at any beauty supply store or salon.

5.  Nizoral A-D.  The Nizoral product contains 1 percent of ketoconazole which was formally only available through a prescription from a doctor.  The buzz on this product is that it works well for mild to more severe cases of dandruff and does not have a strong medication smell.  It has also been reported to me that the product leaves hair soft and shiny.  At $9.69 (4 oz) or $14.69 (7 oz) for the approximate cost the product is in the same price range as the Redken Solve Anti-Dandruff shampoo.

6.  Origins Snow Removal.  The most expensive product on the list at $12.50 a bottle, this product contains salicylic acid.  It suds well and has no tar or medicine smell.  

For more details about dandruff check out the August 1999 edition of AskKaren or read the following Hair Boutique article:

Dandruff Faqs

Best wishes,

Karen

PS.  If you have tried dandruff shampoos and would like to share your experiences please write me.


December 21, 1999
Special Hairpins For Fat Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I love to wear my hair up in buns but my hair is too thick for regular hairpins to hold it up.  After a few minutes of being pinned up my hair pops out and falls out.

What can I do?  Any suggestions that will help hold my hair up in a bun?

Thanks in advance.

Sandra 

Answer

Dear Sandra,

When hair is too thick, curly or long to be controlled by regular bobby or hair pins then an updo pin can work wonders.  An updo pin is a thick oversize pin, often tortoise shell, that can hold thick hair tight against the scalp.  The thicker, curlier and wavier your hair, the better that the updo pin will work.  

The updo pin is easy to use.  Just wrap your bun and then spear the bun with the updo pin and it will grab it and hold it in place.  I have had the best luck personally by placing my updo pins near the "tail" of the bun to hold it firmly in place.  

You can actually place an updo pin in any location on the bun as long as it hold the hair in place.

If your hair is fine, straight or thin you will probably need to add a few bobby pins to hold the style in place.

You can usually find the updo pins at most beauty supply stores like Sally Beauty or Cosmetics Plus.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 20, 1999
Creating Zig Zag Parts ?

Question

Dear Karen,

Can you please tell me exactly how to create a zigzag part?  

KT

Answer

Hi,

To create a zig zag part you need to brush hair completely back from your face and use a tail comb or a brush with a tail and draw a zig zag shape through the hair.  

If you create the zig zag on wet hair and add a little finishing gel the part will last longer.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 19, 1999
Difference Between Dry Scalp & Dandruff?

Question

Dear Karen,

Can you please tell me what the difference is between dry scalp and dandruff?

Andrew 

Answer

Dear Andrew

There really is no difference from a technical view between these two conditions.  Dry scalp as well as dandruff results when there is an increased production of skin cells in the scalp area.  The cause may be dry scalp or it may be dandruff or even a combination.

Some people believe that the solution is to add oils to the scalp which actually will only clog the pores.  The best thing to try when you have flakes is a good dandruff shampoo.  The other option you have is to seek the advice of a dermatologist or other medical professional that specializes in scalp/dandruff problems.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 16, 1999
Formal Updo Ideas?

Question

Dear Karen,

I really need a new updo for my long hair. I am attending a formal event tomorrow evening and I have no idea how to do my hair.

Could you please email me instructions on how to create a new, but contemporary hairstyle?

Thanks so very much.

Halle

Answer

Hi,

With just one day's notice it is impossible to give you personal or detailed information on how to do your hair.  However the Hair Boutique is chock full of updo information. 

All of the articles have step-by-step instructions as well as photos to help you pick out the styles you might like.

Please check out the following sections and articles:

Hair Boutique list of Hair Styling Tips & Articles:
http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tips.htm

Long Hair Styles & Updos:
http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/longhair.htm

Updo styles:
http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/updos.htm

Braided styles & updos:
http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/braidstyles.htm

Updos and tips for curly hair:
http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/curlyhairstyles.htm

With all the different styles I am sure you will find a couple of "hot" styles for long hair that you can try.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 6, 1999
Phytologie For Dandruff?

Question

Dear Karen,

I am confused.  I have dandruff that needs constant shampoo treatments and yesterday a woman at Saks told me that I should try the Phytologie brand of dandruff shampoo.  HUH?  I thought Phyto makes only leave-in conditioners and shampoo for normal hair.

I guess a part of my confusion is that there are so many different formulas in each product line.  When people start to talk about the Phytologie line or the ARTec line my eyes glaze over.  Can you help me figure all this out?

Thanks and I appreciate the help more than you know.

Priscella

Answer

Hi,

You are right.  Things can get really confusing.  Yes, Phytologie does make an excellent shampoo for dandruff hair. 

It is called Phytosylic Dermatological Shampoo. It was specifically designed by Phytologie to eliminate dandruff as well as to tone the scalp. 

The great news about the Phytosylic is that is a very mild shampoo and can be used every day, if you wish.  It will not harm the hair like some of the stronger dandruff formulas. 

I read somewhere that when tested in clinical trials it was proven to be approximately 84% effective in containing dandruff. 

In keeping with Phytologie's normal policy of using the highest quality of natural products available the Phytosylic is made with extract of willow leaf and cypress oil which is known to eliminate dandruff as well as tone the scalp.

I personally use Phytologie's #7 & #9 leave-in conditioning cream and I love it.  It leaves my hair so soft and silky without any buildup or gummy feeling.

I have listed all the Phytologie shampoo variations that I personally know about in the table below. 

I may have missed some although I think the list is pretty complete.  

I hope this table helps you determine the differences in the Phytologie shampoo line.

Phytologie Product - Shampoo Line Brief Description
Phytojoba Milk shampoo designed to be gentle on dry hair.
Phytocadamia

 

Designed to be good for extremely dry hair.
Phytosatine

 

Nourishing Shampoo for dry hair.
Phytocidre

 

Restoring shampoo that is best used on chemically processed hair.
Phytargent Whitening Shampoo For Grey Hair Whitens grey & white hair.  Helps eliminate yellow & brassy tones. Contains chamomile azulene which restores silver highlights.  Softens & hydrates to eliminate natural coarseness of gray hair.
Phytomen Hair & Body Shampoo Designed to be used on both hair and body.
Phytolactum Scalp Shampoo

 

Shampoo designed for frequent use.  Good for people who shampoo every day or even more than once a day.
Phytosylic Dermatological Shampoo

or

Phytocoltar Phytocypres

 

 

 

 

Designed specifically for dandruff.  Is gentle enough to be used on a daily basis.  Includes extracts of willow bark and cypress.
Phytoplage Hair & Body Sun Shampoo Shampoo for hair or body to protect against the damage of the Sun.
Phytopanama Mild shampoo for frequent washing.
Phytosteine Sebum Cleansing Shampoo

or

Phytosaponaria G25
Phytossoul

For oily scalp.
Phytovolume Volumizing shampoo for fine and limp hair.
Phytorhum Fortifying shampoo for lifeless hair.
Phytospecific Hydra Repairing Shampoo Shampoo for damaged hair.
Phytocyane For Women
Phytopolleine Plus For Men
For thinning hair
Phytomixte Combination hair.
Phytoapaisant Shampoo for sensitive scalp
Phytonectar Ultra dry hair.

Best wishes,

Karen


December 5, 1999
Pink Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have dark blonde hair with light blonde highlights. I would like to do something really
different for New Year.

If I use a pink semi-permanent on my hair will I be able to get it back to blonde in a week or two?

Thanks,

Iain

Answer

Hi,

OK...well first of all...thank you so much for asking first. 

So many people do the unusual color deal to their hair and then discover it does not come out and they are left with permanent pink/purple/orange...etc hair.  :-)

If your hair is in good shape and not overly porous, you can probably (although no guarantees) do the pink semi-permanent color without a permanent lasting color. 

However, there is no guarantee that your hair will
not "suck up the pink" and then refuse to release the color from the cuticle.  

This happens to hair that is porous or curly or slightly wavy, because the cuticle is always a little bit open.

If you want to go ahead knowing that this is a slight risk that the pink will not go away, that is OK, but at least you know what to expect.

Worst case, to get the pink out, you may need to go to a color expert who will have to remove all the color and then put back a color close to your
original color.

Can you minimize the risk?  Yes.  First of all, apply the semi-perm on day old hair.  If hair is newly washed and clean, it will take more of the color into the cuticle. 

Also, if you can, use a good wash out conditioner and a good setting gel on your hair BEFORE you apply the pink. 

The gel and conditioners will act as a protective layer.  Last thing is to remember to wash the pink out the very next day or as soon as possible after you apply it.   This will lessen the hold of the color.

If you are not sure, apply the pink to an underside part of your hair that does not show and then try to rinse it out. 

If you do this about 1 week before you apply the pink to the top part of your hair that shows, you can see what happens. 

If the pink does not come out, it would be on the
underside of your hair where it did not show.  A good test.

Last thing.  Never apply a color like pink, orange, green etc to hair that has been bleached. 

It is almost a guarantee that it will turn a new color because the chemicals will likely mix and then who knows.

If you apply the color to your hair when it has a setting gel/mousse layer, this will protect the cuticle. 

Also, wet or slightly damp hair will not
absorb as much of the color as bone dry hair.

Hope that helps.

Best wishes,
Karen

PS.  When in doubt, how about a wig?  :-)


December 1, 1999
Difference Between Highlighting & All Over Color?

Question

Dear Karen,

I want to lighten my hair color.  My stylist strongly recommends that I get highlights rather than all-over color.  I really want to have light hair.  Is my stylist giving me the best advice?  What do you recommend?  Is there a difference between highlighting all apply all-over color?

Appreciate the help.

Joan

Answer

Dear Joan,

Highlights involve coloring only selected strands of hair that are segregated from the rest of your hair by either being pulled through a cap or through the use of well planned foils.  

The more you highlight, the lighter your full head of hair will appear.  Highlights can cover a small, medium or loss amount of your hair.

When you apply color to your entire head, everything is lightened or changed.  

One key difference between highlights and all over color is the upkeep.  When you apply color to the entire head as you hair grows you will experience a re-growth area (the new hair growth that is not lightened).  When you have all over color you can plan on needed a touchup every 4-6 weeks.

This can become very expensive and time consuming.  Also, it can be more stressful for the hair.

When you highlight the re-growth areas is a lot less and the new hair blends in with the non-highlighted hair.  You can actually go several months between highlighting procedures.

Also, highlighting can be less traumatic to your hair.

Your stylist may have advised you to go with highlights for a number of reasons ranging from the current condition or your hair, which may respond better to highlights, to timing and cost factors.

It sounds to me that your stylist has your best interests at heart and is on the right track. I would tend to agree that highlights are a wise decision for most people.

Best wishes,

Karen



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