Ask Karen - October 2003 

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October 28, 2003
New Hairstyle For Me?

Question

Dear Karen,
I recently saw an article in a hair stylist magazine that gave your e-mail address for hair questions. 

I need some advice and help, please. I desperately need a new hair style. I am Caucasian. I have a medium amount of hair. Each hair strand is somewhat fine. I have absolutely no body to my stick-straight hair. My hair length is just below my neck. 

My face is thin and somewhat long. I am in my 40's. Please let me know what type of hair style would look good on me. I would like something that is flattering on me and yet doesn't take a lot of time to fix. I like low maintenance.

 
Thank you,

Susan Johnson

Answer

Dear Ms. Johnson,
 
My apologies but as you can imagine, it is virtually impossible to advise people of personalized new hairstyles over the Internet. Quite frankly, without being able to look at someone's face and their coloring and hair in person, even recommending general styles would be a shot in the dark.  It would be like be recommending a great couch for a house I have never seen, or similar.
 
I have tried to do this in the past because so many people have requested this exact help, but it is very hard to do and usually requires that the person still go to a hairdresser, so I no longer can make any custom hairstyle suggestions. I am sure you can understand why.
 
What I would suggest for you is that take a little time to research salons in your area.  Then call one that feels like it would be comfortable for you.  Ask them if you can pay for just a consultation.  Be sure and tell them that you are still searching for hairstyle options and just want to pay for the time to have your hair analyzed.  If you do this, there should be no pressure to accept what they tell you and then you can go home and decide whether to go back or not and have the work done.
 
In general fine hair does best when it is worn shorter than longer.  This is because fine hair does flatten easily. 

Please read:

http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip109.htm which explains in great details the types of cuts that work with fine hair as a good reference point. 

You also might like to visit HairBoutique.com at http://www.hairboutique.com which has over 8,000 articles about hair care as well as dealing with different face types and hair textures.

 
Many of the styles that Victoria discusses in the link above are lower maintenance. However, when you find a stylist that you are comfortable with, you can explain that low maintenance is key for you.  Since your face is thin and somewhat long, you definitely want a style that will give you width or definition around the cheekbones and will focus attention of your eyes or lips, whichever you wish to show off.
 
Finding a good salon can be tricky.  It is best to start watching women and men around you that have really great cuts.  Ask them where they got their cut and who did it.  I have found all of my best hairstylists that way.  Think about the fact that any hairstylist ultimately has their work walking around in public as calling cards. 
 
If you are looking for a good large chain of salons, Toni & Guy is generally reputable and good.  If you like near a very large city, it is easier to find a good salon.  Many of the local magazines that focus on happenings in the city (D Magazine, New York, LA Magazine, etc.,) will often list the Best and The Worst of hairstylists and salons.  You can often call the editors and ask for their list.
 
Finally, another trick is to look at magazines and find a celebrity that has a face shape like yours and hair like yours.  Then look at the way that the actress or celebrity wears their hair.  Usually celebrities have the very best of the best stylists at their beck and call. If you copy one of the celebritie's styles, you are getting very expensive  hairstyling advice for little cost.
 
Keep in mind also that hair color and hair streaking will "blow up" the cuticle of the hair and give fullness.  It can also be strategically placed to help minimize a long thin face and "open it up".
 
I hope this gets you started in finding a great style for you.
 
Best wishes,
Karen Shelton

Question

Dear Karen

Hi.  I just cut my hair and I really regret it now. I really want to grow my hair out.  I was looking through a magazine and there was an ad that said if you buy this shampoo stuff your hair will grow within 5-7 days. 

Does that stuff work at all or is it just a gimmick to have you buy the stuff? Does it help at all?

Thank you.

Annette Larson 

Answer

Dear Annette,

Unfortunately there is no magic bullet for instant hair growth. For more information please read:

http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip914.htm and http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip214.htm

Even with the new hair vitamins that help maximize growth, you will generally not grow hair faster than 1/2 to 1 inch a month with the 1 inch being somewhat rare.

Any product that promises overnight growth is suspect. Shampoo washes right out so that is even more suspect.

I can't say for sure whether the product works or not since I have not used it but I would certainly be suspicious since most hair growth takes time and needs to be generated from the inside out.

Regards,

Karen Shelton


October 22, 2003
Keep Up The Good Work

Question

Dear Karen

I visit HairBoutique.com every single day and I have emailed you a few times.  Every time you have been so nice and helpful which is amazing since I know you receive mountains of email every day.  HairBoutique.com is simply amazing.  Where else can you go and get a website with so much great information that is 100% free?  So many sites are now charging just to visit and they don't have 1/10th the information that you provide at no cost.

Therefore when I just read the email below from Ms. Sandy Hall (see below her email) attacking you for not dropping everything at 3:00 in the morning for her problem and giving the advice she wanted, I had to laugh.  I can only imagine what her problem was.  Did she have a last minute date and need an updo in 5 minutes.  Or maybe she wants to see a photo of Jennifer Aniston's new do but is too lazy to search for herself.  

Trust me, I have been there with you Karen. I own a hair salon and you would not believe some of the people that I have to deal with that are rude, obnoxious and believe the world owes them something. I have people come into my salon and demand that I drop everything and answer their hair questions.  Never mind if I am working on a customer or not.  I get calls from people who demand that I rearrange my schedule for their last minute emergency Homecoming date or Prom date or whatever event that is only important in their world. Never mind anyone else and their lives.

I wanted to email you and tell you to keep up the great work you do on behalf of both hair professionals like me and hair consumers.  I think you are probably the hardest working lady around and that you try very hard to help as many people as possible.  The fact that a bitchy women complains because she didn't like your advice, well I would have done exactly what you did and published her email to you for the world to see.

In fact, in the future, I hope you publish all similar emails.  I have found that a Bully feels empowered in private but will shrink when the bright light of the day hits them smack in their self centered faces.

You go girl.

Sincerely,

Donna

Answer

Dear Donna,

Thank you making my day.  Yes, I get an average of 500 emails every single day of the week to AskKaren.  I am flattered that so many people take the time to write and I try to read every email as quickly as possible.

Unfortunately, unlike AnnLanders or DearAbby I do not have someone funding a staff of people to help me answer each and every email personally.  If there was any way I could personally help everyone with every single hair problem, I would.  However, there are only 24 hours in every day and I can't get to every single email, no matter how hard I try.

HairBoutique.com was designed to help both consumers and professionals find a wide range of complimentary hair care help, advice and information. While I promise to try and help as many people as I can, I do not promise instant responses and I do not promise that all my advice will be perfect.  My advice is free however. 

When I know that a problem has already been covered in either the Askkaren column or in an article on HairBoutique.com, I do point people to appropriate links to try and expediate the answer to their question.  

Many people email me with hair care emergencies that I can't possibly help with because I am not because of the circumstances of the problem.  Just like Ann Landers, when I have an idea of someone that might be able to help, I do refer people. Some like Ms. Hall, literally email me at 3:00 in the morning and when I don't answer within a few minutes, send me abusive emails complaining because I did not drop everything and help them.  

While it is true that I hardly sleep, I do try to catch a few winks every night and 3:00 am is prime sleeping time for me.

As far as last minute pleas for homecoming, prom or wedding updos there is no way I can respond with just a few minutes notice.  Sometimes I don't even receive an email for up to 12 hours after it is sent.

Maybe you are correct and I should publish every email complaint that I receive.  I hate to embarrass people who assume that their bad manners and rude comments will not be seen by anyone else but me.  

The now deceased Ann Landers, one of my personal idols, used to publish routine columns from people attacking her for her advice.  So maybe there is some merit to the idea?  I am always amazed by how many people will complain about me or AskKaren or the HairBoutique.com site when it is absolutely free.  I wish I could remember what some wise person said about looking a gift horse in the mouth. 

One thing that some people are not aware of is that every AskKaren email receives an immediate automatic response to let the person know that their email was received. The auto responder is not from me but from the AskKaren mailbox. When I am able to personally answer an email question, it may take several hours for me to get back to the person.  Unfortunately some people are not patient and when I can not answer them within a few minutes, they fire back emails like the one I received from Ms. Hall.

As an aside, Ms. Hall was emailing me because she needed help using a banana clip.  Although I did not answer her at 3:00 am when she first emailed AskKaren, I did email her later in the day with detailed instructions on how to use a banana clip, which is published on the HairBoutique.com site (which she said sucks) as well.

Thanks again for your support and your funny email.  It is always nice to get good feedback. I may consider publishing a column with the worst emails I receive or something equally appropriate.  If I do, I will be sure to include Ms. Hall's email below.

Best wishes,

Karen Shelton


October 22, 2003
Thank You For Helping Me?

Question

Dear Karen

Thank you so much for your recent email help to me.  I really was suffering as a result of trying to do my own highlights at home and after I turned my hair green, you gave me some great advice that helped me recover from the problem.  I know that you help so many hundreds of people but I am sure that not everyone takes the time to email their thanks.  I wanted to do that.  So thanks and keep up the good work.

Sincerely,

Karlie

Answer

Dear Karlie,

Thank you for emailing me.  You are correct, I get many hundreds of emails every single day and try to personally answer as many as possible when time permits. The rest I try to forward to links that might help since time does not permit me to answer every single email.

Unfortunately I still receive emails like the ones below (see email from Sandy Hall) that sometimes make it all seem not worth trying to help any further.

Thank you again for your sweet feedback.

Good luck with your hair.

Best wishes,

Karen Shelton

Email Received by AskKaren from Sandy Hall on October 22, 2003 at 3:08 am.

-----Original Message-----

From: hall sandy [mailto:sipohall2@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 3:08 AM
To: askkaren@hairboutique.com

Subject: Thanks a lot.

Thanks for NO advice. I really needed advice and you shuffled me off to a site that SUCKED! Thanks for your GREAT help!

Sandy Hall
sipohall2@yahoo.com


October 22, 2003
Salon Today Magazine?

Question

Dear Karen

I would like to receive Salon Today Magazine. How do I get it? My name is Sandra D and my salon is Sandra D Salon of Beauty. 
                   
Thank you in advance.

Sandra

Answer

Dear  Sandra,
 
Salon Today Magazine is part of the Modern Salon publishing corporation which publishes magazines for the professional hair care industry.
 
Please check out:
 
and to subscribe go to:
 
Best wishes,
Karen

October 17, 2003
Hair Too Soft?

Question

Dear Karen

I recently switched from grocery store brands to the professional lines.  My hair has never felt more wonderful, soft and silky.  However, now I have a new problem.  My hair is actually too soft and silky to hold my normal style.  I love the new professional lines but I need to be able to also style my hair.  Any ideas of what I should do?

Kyla

Answer

Dear Kyla,

You have several options that can potentially offer you the styling power you seek without losing your new soft silky hair feel.  

You might want to experiment with a range of different styling products that will give your hair more traction.  If you want just a little more style consider using a soft mousse or similar type of product.  If you want a firmer hold and style use a firm gel or a wax.  The combination of your soft hair and the right styling product should offer you the advantage of soft and silky hair with holding power.

If you are using a rinse out or leave-in conditioner in addition to the softer shampoo and conditioners, you might want to experiment with only using them every other day or even every couple of days.  While rinse out and leave-in conditioners are wonderful for helping to control dry and damaged hair, if they are used too often or used on the wrong type of hair, they can make hair overly soft and more difficult to style.

You can also experiment with diluting your shampoo products.  Yes, I know, most professionals and product companies do not recommend diluting products, but sometimes it does help.  Consider diluting 1 part shampoo to 2 parts warm water.  Swish up the mixture and then apply to the roots first.  Let the suds gently flow down the length of your strands.  This will give you a solid hair cleansing experience without too much softening.

You also have the option of trying products that have less softening ingredients.  Look for products that specify that they are for fine to medium strands or that they offer volume and body.  

It could actually be true that the products you are using are a little too heavy for your hair texture and a lighter formula would offer better styling control.

Sometimes finding the perfect combination of shampoo, conditioner and styling products take time and experimentation.  Play with a few of the options I have suggested and let me know how it turns out for you.

 
Regards,
Karen Shelton

October 16, 2003
Reaction To Hair Color?

Question

Hi  Karen,

My hair colorist has been using Matrix permanent color on my hair for more than a year now with great results. In April of this year she gave me a body perm. I started having strange tingling sensations up the back of my neck and scalp, along with irritated eyes. Now, each time I have my hair colored, these reactions happen again.

Have you any idea what may be causing this? I have had my hair colored for the past ten years and have had no reactions.

Thank you,

Geri

Answer

Dear Geri,

Some people develop an allergic reaction to chemical hair dyes over time.  Usually it is related to the PPD which is short for p-Phenylenediamine.  

You can read more about this at:

 
Usually the allergic reactions develop over time and become more pronounced until a serious reaction occurs.  You might wish to discuss this with your primary physician and ask about having an allergy test.  They are fairly simple these days and involve a blood test that can pinpoint if you are in fact developing an allergy to PPD.
 
Some people have their hair colored and/or dyed for over 15 years before their body builds up an immunity and reacts with a negative allergic reaction.  Usual symptons include irriated eyes which sometimes may swell up and close up to rashes and can even be dangerous in some rare cases where there is a history of blood pressure or heart related issues.
 
Before you have the process done again, please investigate with your physician if there is an allergy developing.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Regards,
Karen Shelton

October 10, 2003
How Long Does Temporary Haircolor Really Last?

Question

Hi Karen,

I recently switched from permanent hair color to temporary at the advice of my stylist.  She told me that my hair needed a rest and that the temporary colors would give me the color I wanted but without the heavy chemicals.  Unfortunately I notice that my temporary color seems to be gone almost as quickly as I put it on my hair.  So my question is how long does temporary hair color really last?

Thanks

Saunder

Answer

Dear Sander

Well as you know, temporary does mean temporary.  The manufacturers of the temporary colors will usually publish a guideline of how long the color is meant to last.  Depending on the manufacturer and the type of color that they use, temporary colors may last from 4-8 shampoo cycles. 

There are definitely things you can do to slow down the color loss.  These include the following tips:

1.  Shampoo less often.  The process of applying water and shampoo is what causes the temporary colors to wash out.  If you can shampoo every other day or every couple of days rather than daily, you will extend the life of the temporary color.

2.  Shampoo in lukewarm to cool water.  The hotter the water you use, the quickly the color will leave.

3.  Do a final cool/cold rinse.  This seals the hair cuticle and allows the color the be sealed off from environmental factors that speed up hair color loss.

4.  Avoid red colors. These fade the fasted because red colors have the smallest molecules which do not cling to the hair shaft as easily as the other colors.  If possible select a darker color base that will seep deeper into the cuticle and last longer.

5.  Use a color enhancing shampoo.  There are many on the market including those by Aveda, Mine, Paul Mitchell and Redken.  Select one that will help keep your color intact as long as possible.  I personally love the Mine Sunny Sunday for my blonde locks but Aveda's Blue Malva is wonderful for gray shades as well. Manic Panic also makes a color enhancing shampoo to keep their color line perked up.

6.  Apply your color on a weekend and don't shampoo your hair for the entire weekend.  This gives the color a chance to settle in deeper and thus last longer.

7.  Avoid using hot oil treatments that will pop open the cuticle and cause the temporary color to leech out faster.

8.  Consider using a demi-perm like Castings which will last longer. 

Best wishes,

Karen


October 6, 2003
Morning Hair Horrors?

Question

Dear Karen,

When I wake up in the morning I am always a frenzied mess because I don’t want my boyfriend to see my hair.  I rush into the shower where I hide out until my hair is presentable.  Although I have explained my embarrassment at my bad hair to my guy, he seems hurt that I don’t want to hang out with him when we first wake-up.  Any ideas what I should do to fix this problem?

Thanks.

Melody

Answer

Dear Melody

Although I genuinely sympathize with you, I also suspect that your sweetie would much rather enjoy morning cuddles with you and your pillowhead than watch your disappear into a cloud of shampoo. 

If you really can’t bring yourself to expose your electric socket morning locks to your guy, put your hair in a bun or ponytail before you go to sleep to anchor crazy locks.  Braids are other great options.

Don’t forget that true love is blind and conquers all sorts of morning horrors from morning mouth to spikey hair horrors.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 5, 2003
Boyfriend Pulls Hair?

Question

Dear Karen,

I am madly in love with my dream guy.  Unfortunately he has this terrible habit of playing with my long hair.  The problem is that he pulls my hair and it not only gets all tangled, it hurts sometimes.   I have gently asked him to stop but he tells me that one of the things he loves most about me is my hair.  I have considered getting my hair cut very short to end the problem but worry that I will lose him in the process.  I know this is a strange question but if you have any suggestions I would appreciate them so much. 

Thanks.

Meggan

Answer

Dear Meggan

Rule number one is to be totally true to your own wants and needs.  If you love your long hair but hate the constant hair pawing by your sweetie, then keep your locks and consider ditching your handsy guy.  So what’s up with him not listening to or respecting your clear wishes? 

One possible compromise that might allow you to keep your guy along with tangle free, painless strands is to agree upon some mutually enjoyable hair pampering rituals.  Consider letting your love brush your hair every night before you go to bed.  Or maybe you wouldn’t object to a weekly hot oil scalp massage that allows him to get his fingers into your locks without pulling too hard. Other options include letting him braid your hair or give you a seductive shampoo on a regular basis.

Have a heart to heart talk and explain your current cuticle distress.  Ask him to work with you to find mutually satisfying hair activities.  Be open to his ideas and suggestions.

If he balks or pouts show him the door and realize that your lovely long strands will love you for it.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 4, 2003
Note From You?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have been a faithful shopper in your Marketplace for the past year.  I love the Phyto products and the pricing and how fast my package always arrives.  I am curious about one thing.  I always notice a hand written note on my invoices that are usually signed by Karen Shelton or Karen.  Could you possibly be the same Karen?  If so, I am surprised that you would take the time to sign my invoices my hand although I do appreciate it. Thank you for a wonderful site.

Mrs. Grayson

Answer

Dear Mrs. Grayson,

Yes, those handwritten notes on your invoices are in my sloppy penmanship. Sometimes Karen comes out like "Kren" or other wide looped signatures that are a derivative of Karen.  But yes, it is me that personally signs about 99% of the time.

I have been signing most of the invoices every day since almost the beginning of our Marketplace some years ago.  After all, if you and our other HairBoutique.com customers can take the time to shop and buy products from us I feel that it is only right for me or some other HairBoutique.com team member to take the time to write a personal thank you note to each and every customer.

Hairboutique.com is not perfect by any stretch of the imagination.  We sometimes unintentially make mistakes and goofs but we do try very hard to offer quick, efficient, customer focused service.  We appreciate each and every customer, like you, that takes the time to visit our e-store.

Thank you for your kind note and question.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 3, 2003
Trimming Bangs At Home

Question

Dear Karen,

I am a college student with a very limited income.  I wish to trim my own bangs at home but am not sure how to start or what to do.  Can you please give me some pointers on cutting my own bangs at home?

Ilena

Answer

Dear Ilena,

Bangs can be so much fun and can offer so many different ways to change up any hairstyle in an instant. Keeping bangs trimmed to just the right length can be quite a challenge, especially for hair that grows quickly.  

It is always a good idea to arrange to have your bangs or fringe shaped on a regular basis to make sure that they don't grow totally out of control.  However, when a limited budget looms as a challenge, it is perfectly acceptable to do some trimming touch-ups on your own strands at home.  

When you undertake your own bang trimming operation,  be sure to use the right tools and take your time.  You may even want to explain your plight to your sympathetic stylist who might give you some trimming  pointers the next time you go to the salon.

It should be noted that some stylists will offer bangs trims at a minimal or no charge to their regular customers.  Not all stylists offer this service but it never hurts to inquire.

Many people borrow the eyes and hands of a friend or loved one to trim their bangs for them.  However, if you prefer to trim your hair yourself, you can still do a great job with some helpful hints listed below:

Bang Trimming Hints

1.  Whether you are a pro at trimming your own bangs or not, always allow yourself plenty of time to do the job.  Remember that haste makes waste.  Bangs that are trimmed in a hurry may turn out too short or may be uneven.

2.  Always use a professional quality comb and scissors.  A poor quality comb or scissors may potentially rip, tear or damage otherwise healthy strands. Purchase a good plastic comb and a good pair of trimming scissors.

Some hair experts recommend that you use a sharp cuticle or mustache scissors for a bang trim.  Although these types of cutting instruments are much smaller than a regular pair of scissors, you have more control over your trim operation and can make less mistakes.

Bang trimming guide tape can sometimes be purchased from various beauty supply stores.  Of you can improvise with some fabric tape.  Using guide tape can help you create a more uniform trim line.  

3.  Although professionals disagree on whether to cut hair when it is wet or dry, keep in mind that strands stretch while wet but shrink when dry.  This change in length can make judging how long your bangs will actually be a bit of a challenge.

Most professionals recommend that you shampoo and completely dry your hair before trimming.  Ultimately you may wish to experiment with cutting your bangs dry versus wet to gauge the best results for you.

4.  Make sure that your hair is completely detangled, styled and parted in its normal way before you start to trim. If you neglect this step, you may get unpredictable results.

5.  Pull any hair that is not going to be trimmed into a clip or elastic band that is directed away from the bang area.  

6. Position the index and middle fingers of either hand horizontally against your forehead, resting under your bags.  Your fingers will act as a cutting guide. Grab the ends of about 10 -15 hairs between your fingers and hold them straight down against your forehead.  

Don't pull strands too tightly or else you will artificially stretch your strands and cut too much hair. Always make sure that you have the same amount of hair on all sides before you begin trimming.

7.  Trim and cut below your fingers to keep from cutting hair shorter than you'd like. Work slowly by snipping as little as 1/8th of an inch.  This cutting technique should give your finished bangs a blunt, well designed finish.

When you reach the end, return to the center and trim in the opposite direction until you are done.

8.  When you are finished trimming each individual section of the bangs comb the section into the rest of the bangs and check the length and the evenness in a mirror.  If you prefer that more hair is trimmed from the length, trim another 1/8th of an inch.  Continue with this process until you have achieved the length you desire.

Remember that it is better to leave hair longer than shorter.  You always the option of snipping a little more length from the bangs in a day or so once you adjust to the trim.

9.  Create blunt-cut bangs by combing the hair straight down.  Use the scissors and cut in a straight line from side to side. Hair experts suggest that you start about the middle of the forehead and work your way towards one side.  Then start from the very outside edge of the bangs by your ears and cut towards the middle.  This will help you keep a straighter line.

10.  Wispy bangs should be gathered in a triangle at the middle of your forehead before snipping no more than a quarter inch off the bottom. Then, to get the fringy effect, make a few mini-snips holding the tip of the scissors vertically instead of horizontally. 

If you prefer your bangs with a bit more texture and softness, follow the instructions as above, but twist small sections of your hair a few times (so it's like a rope) and snip into the ends. 

11.  Feathered bangs.  If you prefer a softer, feathered look to your bangs, carefully snip tiny V shaped little wedges at random points along the edges keeping your scissors on a vertical angle rather than horizontal.

12. You may wish to invest in a roll of hair tape that you can use to help you find the perfect length for cutting your bangs.

Even if you make trimming errors with your bangs, don't freak.  Keep in mind that hair always grows back.  You can either let your bangs grow back in at their own pace or you can make an emergency appointment with your stylist to have your bangs reshaped.  Whatever you do, please don't keep nibbling away at your bangs with your scissors.  The result could be disastrous.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 2, 2003
Need A Hair Miracle

Question

Dear Karen,

I am 41, and in that dreaded menopause...I had beautiful hair down to my waist until the last 4 years...Now I have continuously cut it thinking that it would help and it is worse.

I have frosted my hair for 22 years never with any problems until menopause.  I do not take hormone replacement, it makes me crazier......But I do take herb replacement.  I NEED HELP.  Everyone is asking me what happened to my hair.  So not only am I trying to deal with the changes in my body-my hair is also an issue. 

My hair is a little below my shoulders, but won't hang properly due to the thinning (especially in the humidity).  I have tried many products my hairdresser recommended.  I sleep in conditioner. I spray it with leave-in and so on.

Can you please help me!  I don't want to grow old gracefully.  I want to fight it all the way.  I need a miracle.  I have been praying but so far nothing.  I have bought an artificial ponytail in the meantime and that makes it somewhat better.

Thanks in advance.

Waiting For A Miracle In Mississippi,

Robin

Answer

Dear Robin,

Yes, growing older can be a bitch sometimes.  The good news is that there are many options available to you to help you deal with your current hair challenges. In essence with some right steps you can craft your own hair miracles.

Great hair, no matter what age, is one part good attitude, one part genes and one part great styling advice and products.  While you may not be able to change your genes at this point, a great attitude, good products and good advice can help you overcome this fork in the hair road.

Society has changed with the the Baby Boomers.  Many are throwing caution to the wind and not worrying about thinning or gray hair or wrinkles.  Actress Jamie Lee Curtis recently posed for More magazine to prove that she feels beautiful in her 40s with thinner hair, salt and pepper roots and wrinkles.  Many people in their 40s, 50s and above are comfortable in their own skin and support others who do the same.  

Consider taking a little time to reflect on who you are at this stage in your life and clarify what you really value.  Celebrate who you are and the wonderful things in your life.  Consider that when one door closes in life another opens.  Challenges always lead to new opportunities.  

In your current situation with your hair if you really want to effect changes you are going to have to be proactive.  A change will not happen overnight without some investigation and legwork on your part.  Are you still willing to make your own miracle?  Then consider these steps:

1. Seek advice for your thinning hair from your chosen health practioner or practioners as well as your hair and beauty advisors.

It is possible that your current hair thinning can be due to a combination of factors including hormone imbalances, thyroid malfunction, nutritional deficiencies or other medical issues.  Have a complete physical work-up that includes testing of your hormone levels, your thyroid and your overall physical condition.

2. Consult with a nutritional expert.  

Are you eating a good nutritional diet, getting enough sleep and drinking enough liquids to support your hair?  Are you supplementing with vitamins and herbs that are right for your body's needs at this point in your life?

If you are taking herbs it is possible that you may not have the right formula or balance that is best for you. The same can be said for any vitamin or mineral program you are following.  As we age our bodies require different type of nutrients from a variety of sources. A good vitamin program is definitely necessary to grow healthy hair and skin.  This is even more true the older we become since our bodies may require extra support.

3. Consider alternative hormonal solutions.

Although traditional hormones may not work for you, there are many alternatives that can make a difference.  Many women have had great success with alternative forms of hormones sold at health food stores.  Life-Flo Products sold through many health food establishments and on the web offer all natural progesterone and estrogen creams that can help balance hormones.  

It is possible that your thinning can be due to a combination of factors from hormone imbalances, thyroid malfunction, nutritional deficiencies or other medical issues.  

Of course it may be that your genes contain a family history towards age related hair loss.  If this true for you then external solutions will work best.  This includes looking at hair extensions, wigs and products that will fatten your locks.  

4. Evaluate hair extension options.

Many people have great success with "spot hair extensions" designed to add thickness and fullness in thinning areas.  All natural human hair extensions are a wonderful option because they can be dyed and cut to match your current hair color and style.  Clip-on ponytails, like you have recently purchased, are a great fun way to enjoy the benefits of longer hair with your hair loss challenges.  Wigs are another option.  They have come a long way from the early days and are lightweight and can be amazing close to real human hair.

5.  Work with your stylist to find a great new style.

A great stylist can help you select a style that enhances your hair and gives it more fullness and movement.  Make a consultation with your stylist and discuss your options.  Don't agree to make any changes but take the time to think about what your stylist suggested.  

6.  Evaluate the range of hair loss products on the market.

Many hair care products are designed specifically to help with hair loss issues.  Phytologie makes a series of hair care related products designed not only to address hair loss issues but to help camouflage the thinning hair. They offer a special vitamin program for thinning hair as does Viviscal.

Some of Phytologie's hair loss and strengthening products include:

Phytotherathrie - Phytocyane Treatment - Phytocyane revitalizing treatment addresses female temporary hair loss from pregnancy, stress, diet or menopause. Grape seed extract & gingko biloba protect & revitalize hair. Clinical efficacy testing showed 83% positive results. Delays grey hair onset.

Phytotherathrie - Phytocyane Shampoo

A combination of plant-based active ingredients restores vitality of the hair by encouraging blood flow to the hair bulb & promoting hair growth. A mild cleansing base derived from Coconut oil makes Phytocyane shampoo effective, gentle & pleasant.

Phytotherathrie - Phytoaxil Treatment

With 2 patented botanical active principles, Phytoaxil helps combat the process of thinning hair, due to accelerated aging, by acting both on the hair bulb & surrounding area. Exclusively formulated w/ natural active principles & proven to help hair grow.

Phytotherathrie - Phytoaxil Energizing Shampoo

This shampoo is a great energizing cocktail for all hair types as well as an ideal supplement to Phytoaxil Fortifying Intensive Care. In association w/ a Ginseng extract & Zinc, it fortifies the scalp & invigorates the hair. 3.3 oz

Phytotherathrie - Phytopolleine Scalp Treatment is a 100% botanical scalp treatment for weak, anemic slightly thinning hair and dry or oily scalp.  Essential oils cleanse purify and balance the scalp which stimulates the hair bulb.  This is a must product for regular maintenance that promotes the health of the scalp.

7.  Consider temporary volume enhancers

Finally, there are wonderful volume enhancing products that allow you to shampoo in fullness and follow with gels and volume enhancer formulas that will help.  Matrix Amplify and Vavoom are both great lines with many options for volume enhancement.  Phytotherathrie offers two volume enhancing shampoos and a their wonderful Phytovolume Actif that is the favorite hair fattener of many well-know celebrities.

Simple things like using cool/cold water as your final rinse and drying your hair bent over at the roots will help add fullness.  Hair color applied strategically will also swell the hair shaft making it appear fuller.  

Hang in there and embrace your new hair journey.

Best wishes,

Karen


Question

Dear Karen,

OK.  I am a teen and I hate that it takes me almost 2 hours to get ready and it is all because of my hair!.  I usually take my shower at night so it will only take one hour in the morning.  This is my problem.  I have very long wavy, thick, frizzy, dark hair. It's the worst!

I do the whole gel after the shower thing.  Then I blow dry with a round brush (or flat brush) straight.  Then in the mornings I use a straightener on it.

I barely have time for makeup and picking out clothes.  It is all my hair!  I want to get it cut but I am so scared cause when I was like 5 I had really curly hair and my got it all cut off and it came back like THIS!.

So if I get it cut I believe it will be so bad cause the only reason that it is even a little straight and sometimes not frizzy is cause the weight of my hair holds it down.  So do you have any way to help me?  

Anything is good for me!.  I just don't know what to do with it besides putting it into a ponytail.  Even then it is just frizz.  Well thanks.

Sarah

Answer

Dear Sarah,

I hear you.  Having lots of hair can definitely be time consuming.

While you’re right longer hair helps weigh down hair waves, you do have several options.  A possible long term solution is to consider having your hair relaxed.  There are many wonderful at-home salon quality products like Phytologie's Phytospecific relaxers that are all natural.  They will soften and relax your hair so that it is much easier to style.  The relaxed cuticles will also compress the size of your hair and help prevent frizz. 

If you don’t feel comfortable relaxing at home, talk to your stylist about similar options at the salon.  You are right to be concerned about cutting your hair too short.  Selecting a slightly shorter, well crafted style, that thins and shapes your thick hair will definitely keep your waves under control but help to speed up your daily styling tasks.

Prevent haircut trauma by taking your time to find a stylist that you really trust.  Select a hair expert that will really listen to your hair desires and needs.  Once you find such a pay for a pre-cut consultation only.  Avoid allowing the stylist to work on your hair during the consultation.  Be sure to take some photos of styles you might like and discuss your styling nightmares and new style concerns.  Wait at least 48 hours before you act on suggestions from the consultation. 

Bust daily frizz with shampoo formulas designed to add moisture to your hair.  ARTec Smoothing, Phytojojoba and Aveda Shampure are wonderful products for combating frizz.  Always use a rinse-out conditioner and finish with a cool rinse to seal your hair cuticle.   

Add back weekly moisture with a deep conditioning treatment.  Phyokarite and Aveda Curressence will help soften and defrizz even the most parched hair. 

Braiding your hair in a simple three strand braid while damp will also look smashing and eliminate morning hair fuzz.  Ballernina buns are the hottest rage and only require a few rotations of a ponytail and a handful of bobby pins.  Practice on the weekends to create some new styles that you enjoy and are quick and easy.

Other options include drying your hair the night before school and then sleeping in soft or rag curlers overnight to skip the styling steps in the morning.  Wake up to soft frizz-free curls and waves and ditch your morning styling rituals.

Best wishes,.   

Karen

Question

Dear Karen,

I have short, thick and wavy hair.  I have tried straighteners, gels and hair sprays, but nothing seems to straighten my wavy hair.  Can you recommend something that may help me achieve the look I want.  I want something along the lines of a punky spiked out fashion.

Thank you.

Kelly


Answer

Dear Kelly,

Run, don't walk to a hairstylist that you trust.  Arrange to pay them for some of their time for a consultation ONLY.  Bring a list of the products that you have tried without success.  Also bring some samples of punky styles that you would enjoy wearing.  Keep in mind that your hair may require special cutting and chemical treatments to prepare it for the type of styles that you desire.  

Can you achieve the look that you desire?  Anything is possible but be open to the suggestions of your stylist and weigh the commitment you will need to make in terms of salon visits and/or styling time and products

Best wishes to you,

Karen


Question

Dear Karen, 

Over the past years, I developed a nervous habit that has created major damage to my hair. It started a while back and I tried to prevent it but I still do it till this very day. 

Every time I'm nervous or I'm bored, I start to divide my bangs in the middle and start pulling at them. I didn't know it was really becoming a habit when people started mentioning to me that it was getting thin in the middle. 

I had gotten really scared so I tried all sorts of methods like, parting it to the side, of just pulling it back, but none of it really works. I asked my stylist what I should do about it and she said that I should just leave it alone. But I don't think that would actually work. 

What should I do? 

Do you think there could be a product that could rebuild the damage I've done or should I just do what my stylist says. If you could help me with this bad habit/problem that would be great. 

Shawny

Answer

Dear Sarah,

You are not alone with this problem.  According to Dr. Howard Rosenthal, Ed.D, famous author of the best selling book, Encyclopedia Of Counseling, “it is estimated that more than 8 million Americans currently suffer from a form of compulsive hair pulling known as Trichotillomania (pronounced trick-o-till-o-mania).  

It is now believed females suffer more from trichotillomania (TTM) than males. Coined by a French dermatologist in 1889, the term described individuals who suffer from a "dis-tressing condition.” The word is derived from the Greek words thrix (hair) and tillein (to pull) and mania (madness). 

Although TTM involves a compulsive pulling, and sometimes eating, of hair from the scalp, and other parts of the body, it really is not about the individual’s hair or how they feel about it.  As Dr. Rosenthal explained, while sufferers often insist “that they feel a sense of gratification after pulling out their hair”, most people who suffer from this behavior are usually not specifically upset with the condition or appearance of their hair. 

Will products help?  Not really.  You can try to have your hair styled to camoflauge the thinned out areas or you can consider spot hair extensions that are designed to fill in areas of thinning hair.  Your challenges are to deal with the internal issues that cause you to pull your hair out in the first place.

Most current experts on TTM recommend a multi-modal approach to treatment including behavior modification, hypnosis, and nutritional therapy, which Dr. Rosenthal successfully utilized for treatment of his first patient many years ago.  Some therapists also log success with alternative health treatments such as acupuncture, body work, rolfing, herbs and related therapies. Yes, there are also prescription drug remedies but many experts believe that they may not be as effective long term as the behavior modification approach.

There are many support groups on the web that will help you learn to cope with your hair pulling issues. For more information check out the Trichotillomania Learning Center (TLC).  The Trichotillomania Learning Center (TLC) is located at 1215 Mission St., Suite 2, Santa Cruz, CA 95060, (408)457-1004. Founded in 1991 by a sufferer of TTM, TLC has responded to over 50,000 inquiries about trichotillomania with up-to-date information

Best wishes,

Karen


October 1, 2003
Society Do Did Me In?

Question

Dear Karen,

I have read all of your columns and have never seen this problem before.  I was at a society type of party recently and went a bit crazy on the champagne on an empty stomach.  I wound up tripping, falling down and ripping my very expensive wig off my head for all to see.  Luckily I was too "happy" to feel the pain of embarrassment and just plopped the wig back on. But now I find that people are still talking about my unfortunate experience behind my back several weeks later.  

I am not sure what to do and wonder if I owe anyone an explanation about the wig.  I know that many of my friends had no idea that I suffer from an advance form of alopecia.  Should I keep quiet and hope it all will blow over or should I out my hair loss problem and explain the wig?  If I do talk about it, who should I trust to tell?

Please help.

Thanks.

Morganna

Answer

Dear Morganna,

How awful for you.  Embarrassing situations are always a challenge to overcome with grace and beauty.  Although I am sure you felt bad at the time and are uncomfortable with the current gossipmongers, it is admirable that you are taking the time to ponder a good solution rather than acting without forethought.  

The people who are your true friends and really care about you will understand that everyone has unfortunate situations in life.  They will still love you for you and will let it pass. People who enjoy celebrating in the misfortunes of others, will do so, no matter what you say or do to try to erase it.  So let the tongues wag since people are people and they will talk.  

Why not keep mum about the champagne incident and maintain a low profile until new fodder captures the fancy of the gossips. And trust me, it will.  Someday you might even be able to look back and laugh about your experience. Until then, remember that this too shall pass.

Should you talk about your hair loss issues? I would suggest that you talk about it only if you really feel that you must bare your soul or need to share to get support.  Who should you tell?  Although it is probably best to only share your hairloss challenges with your family and close friends, if you feel OK talking about it to everyone, then do so.  

If you listen to your heart and follow your conscience you can never go wrong.  

Best wishes,.   

Karen


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