Ask Karen - October 2001 

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October 2001
Revised 5/01/07

October 20, 2001
Tips For Using Hair Sticks

Question

Dear Karen,

I received a gorgeous pair of hair sticks that my husband bought from your store at HairBoutique.com.  Although I managed to get them into my hair using the notes on your wonderful site, I am still struggling with the proper way to use them.  Is there something I am missing?

I noticed in one of the posts that you warned people with thin or fine hair that was not very long that they might have some challenges wearing the hair sticks without hairpins.  I should tell you that I have shoulder length hair that is straight and medium thickness.

What am I doing wrong?  Any tips would help so much.

Janice

Answer

Dear Janice,

It is unfortunate, but true, that many people are not familiar with the wide range of advantages that hair sticks offer.  Not only can they instantly dress up a style, they can save time if you want to pop your hair up into a quick twist or bun.

I personally love to wear hair sticks and own many different pair.  I have them in just about every color and style you could imagine.  While some people collect shoes, I collect hair jewelry. :-)

Don't worry about your current confusion with your sticks. I promise that once you get the hang of it, hair sticks can be fun to wear and a time saver to boot.

The first key to happy hair stick days is picking the right length of your hair sticks.  You are correct that thin/fine hair often has special hair stick needs.  People with thin/fine hair should select the shorter sticks that are patterned for better griping potential.

Longer and/or thicker hair may call for the longer hair sticks.  Hair sticks generally come in two basic lengths although the width of the sticks and material used to create the sticks will vary wildly.  

The best way to learn to wear hair sticks is to play with them when you have lots of time.  The easiest style to start with is a simple fat hair bun or hair twist.

One secret to getting the hair sticks to stay in place is to learn to position them so that the tips of the sticks cross each other in an "x" shape.  Think of the sticks like giant hair pins and insert the sticks from the outside top of your head towards the inside nape of your neck in a angled line.  At the top the sticks should form a big "y" and then touch at the bottom in an "x" form.  

Another secret to properly using the sticks is to twist or "knit" the stick, one at a time, into the bun.  If you gently twist the stick in a knitting or weaving motion from the outside of the bun towards the inside of your scalp, you will find that the stick holds the bun in place more securely without additional pins.  Make sure that the decorative end of the stick is visible 2-3 inches above the bun.

After you have the first stick anchored into place, repeat the twisting into place of the second stick making sure it is angled to touch the first stick at the bottom.

Some people become so successful at anchoring the hair sticks into their buns and updos they discover that they did it too well.  The sticks can be too tight and may even cause stress headaches in rare cases.  Remember to always adjust the sticks so the bun is secure but not too tight. If it feels uncomfortable, loosed the sticks slightly to soften the hold.

If you are afraid to practice with your gorgeous decorative sticks, practice with cheap chopsticks from the Chinese grocery or ordinary pencils. 

If you are nervous about dropping all the training wheels, feel free to cheat a little bit with large hairpins to help keep your bun in place.

Finally, practice makes perfect.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 16, 2001

Question
Tea Or Coffee Hair Rinses?
 

Dear Karen,

My auntie had waist length thick black hair that was gorgeous.  After she died I asked my mom how Auntie Ruth had such shiny black hair, even into her later years.  My mom said she thought that Auntie used either coffee or tea as a final rinse.  Unfortunately my mom did not know the exact details and so I am at a loss to try and figure this out.

Have you ever heard of such a thing before?  If so, do I use instant coffee, brewed coffee or what is the deal?  A friend thought that I might be able to avoid the muss and the fuss and just buy the drip of the day from Starbucks and pour that over my head.  

Help!

Julie Anne

Answer

Dear Julie Anne,

Hmmmm....Starbucks brew of the day as a rinse?  I never thought of that before but you know, it could potentially work.  The important point to note is to make sure you don't pour it on your head while it is still hot.  Lukewarm to cool would be the proper temperature to avoid burns or scalding to your sensitive scalp.

Since you asked several questions, I will try to answer them in sequence.  

Yes, people have been pouring fresh brewed tea and coffee on their hair for centuries.  Basically as long as there has been tea and coffee in the world, it has been used for various beauty treatments, including hair shampoos and rinses.

Coffee and dark teas are thought to cover gray hairs in brunettes while chamomile and the yellow herbal teas are thought to brighten blonde hair, although it will not necessarily add color or lighten the hair in any way.

A friend of mine uses several herbal teas that have a red base to deepen the shine of her red hair.

Never use instant coffee or tea.  Never use either when it is hotter then lukewarm.

Although there is no absolute recipe, you can start by making a pot of coffee with a drip or Mr. Coffee type of machine.  A French press will work too and a Starbucks drip without additives is an option.

While you are waiting for the coffee to cool, shampoo your hair.  Rinse well.  If you use a rinse out conditioning treatment, complete that step.  Rinse well.  Carefully pour the coffee over your hair working from the roots to the ends.  You may want to use a large pan or bowl so that you can rinse your hair several times by swishing your hair through the coffee or catching the liquid as it runs off your hair back into the pan and then continuing to pour it until you are finished. 

When you are finished rinsing with the coffee you should do a final cool water rinse until the water runs clear.  It is not advisable to leave the coffee in your hair because it can cause it to be sticky or gooey.  

There are several things to keep in mind if you decide to rinse your hair with coffee:

1.  Be prepared to let the coffee have enough time to cool or pop an ice cube in the coffee to quickly cool it down.

2.  Have a large pitcher or bowl to allow for repeated rinses.

3.  This is a very messy process.  Don't attempt this anywhere but in a shower to avoid possible coffee stains to sinks.

4.  Remember that you hair could possibly stain your towels.  Use an old towel that you don't mind staining in case this happens.

5.  Rinse the hair well enough to prevent the coffee from dripping and staining during the final cool rinse.

6.  The results will be cumulative over a period of months.

7.  If you want deeper results you will need to use a temporary coloring agent.  Or you can experiment with making a coffee pack mixing 2 parts coffee to one part yogurt and applying to the hair topped off with a shower cap.  Leave on your hair for several hours and then shampoo and finish with a coffee rinse.

8. If you prefer use black tea or herbal teas instead of coffee.  Light haired people should avoid dark teas and coffees that might stain their hair.

The amount of coffee or tea that you use should be in proportion to the amount of hair that you have.  If you have long or thick hair, allow extra liquid for rinsing.  Start with two or three of the eight ounce cups and adjust the amount you use depending on the results.  The same would be true for the amount of tea that you use.

One thing is certain.  Using coffee or tea can be an interesting and fairly cheap alternative to adding color to dark hair.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 10, 2001

Question
Apple Cider Vinegar For Hair?

Dear Karen,

A friend of mine recently bought the Phytotherathrie Phytocidre shampoo.  She was concerned because it did not "foam" and because of the aroma of the shampoo.  After talking to her stylist she told me that it is actually good that the product does not foam because of chemicals and that the apple cider vinegar in the shampoo is good for her hair.  I guess I am skeptical.  Have you used this product?  Is she right about the foaming aspect?  Any help you can give would be appreciated.  

Constance

Answer

Dear Constance,

Yes, the Phytocidre shampoo does contain cider vinegar and no, it does not foam.  Phytocidre was carefully researched and then created specifically as a restoring shampoo for chemically processed hair. Pure cider vinegar seals the hair's cuticle, stabilizes color and imparts shine. Phytocidre shampoo was formulated to be ideal for improving blond or red highlights. 

Note:  Phyto discontinued the Phytocidre Shampoo

Cider vinegar is proven to not only rehydrate hair that is structurally weak, dry or unmanageable, it also will strengthen hair that has been permed, colored, highlighted or subjected to single or double processing. This shampoo will assist in restoring hair's natural Ph balance.

Vinegar products have historically been praised by herbalists and natural hair care experts as a wonderful remedy for balancing and encouraging healthy hair. 

A famous apple cider vinegar rinse contains 2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar to 2 cups of warm water.  This recipe is used to create the final rinse in order to remove the residue left on the hair by commercial shampoos and to impart magnificent shine.  

If you want good general hair conditioning benefits you can also try pouring 4 cups of boiling water over either 2 tablespoons of sage or 2 tablespoons of fennel and let stand for 30 minutes.  When the mix is lukewarm strain the herbs from the mix and pour into a container to use as a all natural final conditioning rinse.  Use immediately on your hair (make sure it is not hot to the touch so as not to burn your scalp) or store in the refrigerator.

The Phytocidre does not foam because it is free of the sulfates that are added to other shampoos so that they will foam.  There is a lot of controversy about this topic and many people feel that the sulfates which create all those glorious bubbles can actually be harmful chemicals.  Is that really true?  It is hard to say but no foam may actually be better than foam when it comes to a healing shampoo formula like Phytocidre.

I personally include Phytocidre in my shampoo rotation schedule because I like the fact that is a very natural product that does not contain sulfates.  The first few times that I used the shampoo it was a little unnerving that it did not foam.  However, after a few times, the benefits to my hair far outweighed the fact that it did not foam and there is a definite aroma of cider vinegar.  I personally like the aroma but I am sure that some people might not like it.

This shampoo is designed to seriously help dry, coarse or chemically treated hair and it does a great job.  If you can live with no foam and the cider aroma you are getting a top quality shampoo.

Can you get the same benefit from using cider vinegar by itself as a shampoo?  Definitely not.  Believe me, I have tried.  Phytocidre is not just cider vinegar. It is a carefully researched and developed composition of ingredients that are built around the vinegar for the maximum benefits to dry, coarse or chemically processed hair.

One that I can say about the Phytotherathrie organization is that they spend a tremendous amount of time and energy developing the very best hair care products that can be developed.  I have been slowly working my way through testing their entire line.  Although I like some products a lot better than others because they are designed for my specific type of hair, I can honestly say that every product I have tried is carefully designed for the results it promises. 

If you have a problem with the aroma of cider vinegar than obviously the Phytocidre is not for you.  However, be aware that many high quality lines offer a form of a cider solution for hair and skin.

Best wishes,

Karen


October 1, 2001

Question
Hair Damage From Pool Chemicals?

Dear Karen,

How harsh are pool chemicals to your hair? Myself and my husband have noticed more hair loss since we have swam in the pool this summer. Is there anything we can do to help the loss?

Kim

Answer

Dear Kim,

All pool chemicals are designed to act as chemical gorillas gobbling up the bad pool bacteria guys.  This is terrible news for unprotected hair that is definitely victimized by those "search and destroy" chemicals.

One of the major pool chemicals, chlorine, is a bleach.  It is corrosive.  When chlorine or other pool chemicals find their way to unsuspecting, unprotected hair cuticles they soak right in, bond with your natural oils and proceed to burn your hair.

Chemists have proven that the pH and chemical composition of pool water is

Unprotected hair that absorbs pools chemicals on a regular basis will most likely become extremely dry, brittle and damaged.  The combination of sun and pool chemicals will also cause hair to become more acidic and loss natural elasticity.  This puts hair on the fast track to varying degrees of breakage, accelerated hair loss and other problems.

Hair that has been damaged by the sun needs a lot of moisture and TLC.  Run don't walk to the nearest hair care shop and load up on moisture enhancing products.  

One of the major advantages of the Phytotherathrie line is that is actually repairs damaged hair rather than just coating the cuticle. Phytotherathrie has a great product  (Phytoplage - After-sun Repair Mask) that is designed specifically to help repair hair damaged by the sun.  

Phytotheratrie also has one of the best lines for protecting hair that is going to be exposed to sun and surf.  The Phytoplage line has one of the best hair sunscreens around. 

I would also advise that you load up on moisturizing shampoo and conditioners to add natural oils back to the hair. Phytocadamia shampoo is a restoring shampoo for dry, porous, thick & curly or chemically processed hair. Phytocadamia is loaded with Macadamia oil, illipe butter & panthenol in order to restore and fortify damaged hair.  Phytocadamia will nourish damaged hair in depth. 

Phytocitrus Mask is a fabulous deep conditioner that should be used as needed on a weekly basis until your hair recovers.

It is always advisable to have any hair that has been excessively damaged removed to allow new growth to flourish.  Make an appointment with your stylist and have all split ends and damaged hair trimmed. 

Best wishes,

Karen


Question

Dear Karen,

I have short wavy hair which when cut properly is great. I'm looking for someone who knows how to cut and work with it. I live in New York City and would appreciate some referrals.  I know New York can be pricey but I am

Viv

Answer

Dear Viv,

New York City is the greatest place in the world for finding master stylists.  Trying to select just one is difficult.  If you are looking for a salon that specializes in wavy hair you should check out Ouidad's salon located at 846 Seventh Avenue (800-677-HAIR for more info on appointment schedules). 

Although Ouidad no longer accepts new clients, she has a staff of experts that would do a great job. Ouidad's salon has been recognized by Vogue as one of the top salons in the nation for specialty hair like yours.

Best wishes,

Karen


Question
Fine Hair Styling Advice

Karen,

I need your help. I currently have long, fine hair. I am planning on cutting it off soon but I am having a hard time finding a style I like. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Donna               

Answer

One of the best all purpose cuts for fine hair is the bob with its many

A popular look for fine strands is a shoulder length bob with chiseled or

Avoid blunt cuts which may result in shapeless or limp looks.  Although pixie cuts can be a great style for fine hair, it is best to reserve the cut  for petite or oval faces.

Check out Fine Solutions, a great article written for HairBoutique.com by Victoria Wurdinger who has fine hair that she has learned to tame with success.

Best wishes,

Karen


Question
Naturally Curly

Dear Karen,

Help!  I have shoulder length naturally curly hair, and of course with naturally curly hair comes frizz, I have tried everything to straighten it, but it just becomes so frizzy. I was wondering if you had any pointers as to how I can straighten my hair and control the frizz.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Nikky

Answer

Dear Nikky,

Congratulations on your naturally curly hair.  When handled properly your hair can be absolutely stunning.   Products that contain a high concentration of silicone can instantly eliminate the frizzies.  Unfortunately this is only a temporary fix and will not help long term.  

Frizz can be controlled by adopting the following regime that includes: 

  1. Moisturize well with shampoo and rinse out conditioners like those from Phyto's fabulous shampoo and conditioner options. 
  2. Avoid very hot water that can dry out your naturally fragile hair.
  3. Detangle with a wide toothed comb and a detangling spray.
  4. Fight frizz with a relaxing balm like Phytotheratrie’s Defrisant Balm, (a favorite of many celebs like Jennifer Anniston and Jennifer Lopez).  This relaxing balm contains Ferula, horseradish and garlic extracts that coat and straighten hair without any chemical action.
  5. Use a natural bristle paddle brush as an anchor, blow dry hair in individual sections until it is 100% dry. Remember to direct the air-flow from the roots to the ends to straighten and add instant shine.
  6. Apply a good light holding spray.

Remember to deep condition as often as your hair needs it. This will build long term moisture benefits into your cuticle and help to cut down on heavy frizz days.  Enjoy gorgeous frizz free locks.

Best wishes,

Karen


By submitting your question, you grant HairBoutique.com  permission to publish it. Due to the volume of mail we receive, Karen regrets that she cannot respond to every question personally. To Ask Karen your questions send e-mail to askkaren@hairboutique.com

 


 

 

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