Ask Karen - January 2002

I have super thick hair. I mean really really thick. It drives me crazy. I would gladly trade my thick straight hair for thin hair any day of the week.

My fiancé loves my hair longer but I absolutely hate it. I want to get a short chop or spikes that allow me to really control my bushy hair. Bill, my finance, tells me that short hair doesn't work for thick hair and the only option is to wear it long.

Help. I don't want another pre-marital disaster on my hands but I really want to cut my shoulder length hair.

Best wishes,

Constance

Answer

Dear Constance,

This is a very tricky and quite controversial question because it involves your likes and dislikes along with those of the man you are going to marry. You are right, short hair can be an ideal situation for hair that is super thick and hard to control. A wonderful look for thick hair is to wear it shaped so that the hair follows the head's natural shape and contours. For even more control, the hair on top can be cut into full layers that fall gracefully over hair underneath that is cut shorter.

I would suggest that you talk to Bill about your hair and explain how difficult it is to care for. Ask Bill to help you select a style that is a compromise. Look at hair and fashion magazines and find photos of shorter styles that you both like. Ask Bill to give his opinion about the styles that you like. Once you decide upon 4-5 styles that you both like, take those photos to your stylist for a consultation only. Be sure to take Bill with you so that he can participate.

At the consultation discuss all the pros and cons of a shorter style and ask how you could wear your hair for your wedding. Don't let the stylist cut your hair at the consultation. Go home, talk everything over with Bill, and then make your appointment to have your hair cut into a style that you and your finance agree will make both of your happy.

Yes, it is true that it is your hair and you have a right to wear it the way you see fit. However, since you are embarking on a brand new partnership with your future husband, it is important to consider his feelings and thoughts about how you will ultimately wear your hair. While you might not agree, it is best if you can find a style that makes both of you comfortable.

Best wishes,

Karen

January 27, 2002
Quick Haircolor Help?

I am so sorry to hear of your current hair coloring dilemma. While I strongly advise that you consider visiting a professional colorist, I understand that budgets can sometimes prevent this optimal solution. A colorist would be able to use special color-removing products to return your hair to its pre-processed color.

Since you used a Feria home hair color kit, I would suggest that you call Feria's toll-free hotline (listed on the box) for advice handling your hair color emergency. Be sure to have the box close by since the Feria hair color expert may need to ask you the exact color number from the box. It helps also to jot down any other colors or products that you may have used on your hair in the last 12 months.

Another option is to try the hot oil trick. According to color experts that I consulted, applying a hot oil treatment like Alberto V05 Hot Oil can help fade the color faster. This trick is most successful with newly colored hair. It also works best with semi or demi-colors. If you decide to try the hot oil trick, leave the oil in your hair for 20-30 minutes and then shampoo out with warm water. If the first application doesn't work, you can repeat the hot oil process several times without harming your hair.

If you are not able to get your hair back to an acceptable level of color, please consider visiting a specialist.

January 26, 2002
Hairspray & Ink?

My mother-in-law told me that when she was a teen she used hairspray to remove ink stains from her white school blouses. Does this trick still work? If so, how does this work?

Back in the 60s, 70s and 80s when most hairsprays contained lots of alcohol it was true that you could spray an ink stain with hairspray and the stain would wash right out. The same was true with a lipstick smudge on a collar or sleeve.

Is this trick still true? Probably not. The hairsprays of 2002 are radically different in composition from their ancestors. Many hairsprays are now called styling sprays and may be completely alcohol free. If you have a hairspray that contains alcohol and is truly a hairspray, this trick may still work. However, I could not guarantee that this would be true of the latest sculpting or styling sprays that are alcohol free.

January 16, 2002
Can Stress Cause Gray Hair?

I have been under a lot of stress at work lately and all of a sudden my hair is getting lots of gray hairs. Is it true that stress can turn your hair gray overnight?

This is a controversial subject. The experts are divided on whether extreme or prolonged stress can actually cause gray hairs to flourish.

In one scientific experiment, black lab rats were put on a diet that was deficient in B vitamins. Their coats turned white over a short period of time. When the B vitamins were added back to their diets, their coats regained its original color.

The scientists found that when people or rats are under stress, B vitamins are depleted. There are other known consequences of B deficiencies. Vitamin B6 deficiency is known to contribute to depression and mounting mental confusion. A lack of B12 can lead to nervous system problems. B2 deficiency is associated with flaky skin around the hairline and eyebrows.

Bottom line, if you are under extreme or sudden stress, you may become deficient in Vitamin B which can lead to all sorts of hair problems that range from dry and brittle strands, to white or gray ones.

How do you prevent stress related problems from impacting your hair and body? Eat foods rich in vitamin B during periods of high stress or take B complex supplements with your meals.

January 15, 2002
Hair Standing On End?

Have you heard the saying, it can make your hair stand on end? If so, can you explain this to me and what it all means?

According to history, our ancient ancestors would "fluff" up their hair to help stay warm and protect the scalp. Believe it or not every single hair follicle is actually attached to a muscle in the body.

When your body gets a sudden chill, you become suddenly startled or frightened or shocked, your nervous system reacts by wanting to warm up your body.

In the process of trying to add heat, your body makes your muscles contract. The contractions will force your hair up into the air thus making your hair "stand on end".

January 14, 2002
Thyroid Problems?

I think I have a thyroid problem but I had the tests done and my doctor said that I had no indication. However, my hands and feet are cold, my nails are brittle and my hair is a mess. It seems like I fit the profile of hypothyroidism. Any suggestions that might help?

I hear you. I went through a similar experience a few years ago. I started having problems with my hair getting very dry and falling out. I went to my doctor and he ran tests and told me I was fine. I continued to have problems. So I got a referral to a thyroid specialist. He did several tests and sure enough, I had a borderline case of hypothyroidism.

What this means is that the thyroid gland, which regulates how your body burns fuel, is under active.

The symptoms you described are common with hypothyroidism. Besides cold hands and feet, brittle nails and dull hair, there is also an inability to lose weight.

A medical doctor, Dr. Broda O. Barnes, developed a simple do-it-yourself thyroid check for women.

On the third day of your menstrual cycle, if you are still having periods, place a thermometer at your bedside. Make sure the thermometer is shaken down to the lowest reading. Also, set a timer or watch by your bed before you go to sleep. The next morning, before you get out of bed, put the thermometer under your armpit for ten minutes. Rest quietly until your ten minutes are complete. Record the reading each morning for ten days straight. If your temperature is consistently below 97.5 degrees you may be suffering from hypothyroidism and should get a second opinion.

Thyroid disease can be difficult to pinpoint. Sometimes it takes a specialist to uncover borderline conditions.

January 5, 2002
Too Much Blonde?

Is it possible to be too blonde? I have been doing my own hair color at home for years and started having problems with the color. I decided to go to a professional hair colorist for a consultation. To my surprise she said that I had gone too far away from my natural hair color and that my color is not multi-dimensional, whatever that means. I decided to wait to do anything until I had a chance to think about this but wanted your opinion.

First of all, it is always a great idea to consult with a professional to get their input. It is also okay to not accept the expert opinion as fact and find your own way. Ultimately the hair you wear on your head has to work for you.

With that said, yes, it is possible to be too blonde in the terms of your hair being too light that it becomes overly porous. When applying root touchups or constant highlights, hair can become over processed and porous. This means that over time the ends become too light or that parts of your hair can't equally absorb color. Lots of problems can develop with future blonding attempts over time.

Although I can't speak directly for the colorist that you went to see, I can tell you that it is important to examine the integrity of your current hair color and overall hair strength and condition before you add more color. It is also important to make sure that during touchup or the addition of new highlights that you don't overlap new color or highlights onto old color or old highlights. Part of the problem that may develop over time is when the same hair is continually lightened through accidental color or highlight overlapping.

Some colorists will suggest that their new color clients go through a series of protein or deep conditioning treatments to re-establish the health of the hair before going further. Another option is to look at going with demi or semi permanent color products and let your hair take a rest from additional blonding treatments for the time being.

Although designed to be temporary, demi or semi permanent hair color may, in some cases, permanently stain hair that has been over process, over lightened or overly chemically treated. In some rare cases, applying even color shampoos can stain hair permanently.

Keep in mind that great hair color no longer means just blonde. During 1997, the deceased glamour girl, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, ushered in an era of white blonde hues that were considered the height of hair color fashion. As the 90s gave way to the 2000s hair color consumers realized that being white blonde was a major commitment of time spent coloring and dollars spent on a wide range of products to maintain the look. Ultimately many hard core Carolyn Bessette blondes longed to return closer to their natural colors. Others wanted a more natural look that was easier and less expensive to maintain.

As blondes became dissatisfied with being too blonde, hair colorists responded by helping client transition their too blonde hues with a series of strategically added lowlights to add subtle depth of color. Many colorists will weave in a range of lowlights to their blonde clients during their highlights sessions. The beauty of doing color with foils allows for the option to alternate light and dark hues together at the same time. Seasoned colorists will weave in lowlights for a luscious multi-dimensional look.

After years of over bleaching, overlapping or over processing, some blondes may have base color challenged strands. This means that the base color doesn't hold and continues to become lighter over time. One option in for this situation is for the colorist to darken the base and then carefully weave in highlights that are two or three levels lighter and try to build in warmer tones overall. Most colorists agree that in the lighter colors, warmth is a good direction to go.

Many colorists will finish a new color design by applying a clear glaze to add shine and to create a rich finished look.

Like any major changes, it is important to take things slow and make sure that you feel comfortable with the results. When you consider going back to your own natural hue, go slowly and avoid a dramatic change that can too shocking. Before making a decision to go back to your original color, drag out some photos albums and check out what you looked like with your true natural color. Your mind may have erased the true memory of what your original color looked like. You may love it and decide to go back but you may remember why you went blonde in the first place. So take your time and make it easy on yourself, your wallet and your hair.

January 1, 2002
Dull Hair Full Of Gel?

I use a lot and I mean a lot of gel, hairspray and wax to give my hair a spiked look. While I can get my hair to be styles the way that I want it to, the problem is that lately it has been looking really dull with no shine. Also, it is starting to feel sticky and tacky. I know that I probably should cut back on the hair gel but I just can't force myself to give it up.

Any suggestions on how to get my hair to be really shiny without giving up the gels?

If your hair is looking dull I would suspect that you have product build-up on your cuticles. This means that your shampoo is not removing all the old product and the more product you use on your hair, the more likely it will clog your locks. I would like to suggest that you alter the dullness by first washing your hair with a good clarifying product.

Clarifying shampoos are all designed to remove product buildup gently and carefully without damaging the hair's outer layer. You can also find shampoo products at your local grocery store that are defined as "clarifying" like that are advertised to help remove product buildup. Use the clarifying shampoo no more than three times a week since they can be quite drying.

Add instant shine to your hair by always doing a cool/cold final rinse which seals the cuticle and adds shine. Select gels and/or sprays that advertise that they add shine so that if you must layer on the product you at least have the benefit of built-in shine formulas.

Finally, you can also spray a tiny bit of shine product as the last step before your finish styling. Be careful to select products that have minimal "cones" or you might find your hair getting even more clogged with buildup.

One trick that always works to add instant shine is to apply a tiny bit of jojoba oil to your fingertips and quickly smooth your fingers from the middle of your hair to your ends. Keep the oil away from your roots and remember that less is more.

By submitting your question, you grant HairBoutique.com permission to publish it. Due to the volume of mail we receive, Karen regrets that she cannot respond to every question. To Ask Karen your questions send e-mail to askkaren@hairboutique.com

January 2002 Revised 5/01/07

January 27, 2002 Quick Haircolor Help?

January 26, 2002 Hairspray & Ink?

January 16, 2002 Can Stress Cause Gray Hair?

January 15, 2002 Hair Standing On End?

January 14, 2002 Thyroid Problems?

January 5, 2002 Too Much Blonde?

January 1, 2002 Dull Hair Full Of Gel?