February 1999
Revised 5/01/07
February 3,
1999
Transitional Hair Questions. Curly Hair & Straightening?
Introduction
Some people want to transition from chemically straightened hair to
permed hair. Some people prefer not to straighten while others feel that is
the best solution. Here are some letters from people with curly hair
problems looking for different solutions.
Question
Dear Karen,
I am an African-American woman who has chemically relaxed hair. It has been this
way for about 8 years now, but I really do not want it straight anymore. I was thinking
about a curly perm or a texturizer, but I do not want to cut my hair (which is halfway
down my back). Is there any way I can make this transition without damaging or cutting my
hair?
Thanks,
Nicole
Answer
Dear Nicole,
What you are hoping to accomplish is to trade one chemical treatment for
another. Hair relaxing and hair perming are based around the
same principles except with different outcomes. Both use very strong
chemicals that have a major impact on the structure of the hair shaft.
If you would like to learn more details about chemical straightening and its
effect on the hair, please refer to my recent article: Chemical Hair Straightening Faqs.
I would not personally recommend that you apply a chemical perm or
texturizer on top of your chemically straightened hair. The potential
damage to your hair from applying chemicals on top of chemicals would be
hard to predict. Your hair may split, break off or become very dry or
brittle. While it is possible that you might not sustain major damage
it is hard to imagine that your hair which has been chemically relaxed for
about 8 years would not suffer some damage.
To be safe and guarantee against chemical damage your only option would
be to let your hair grow out and apply a perm or texturizer to your new
re-growth. You could try having the perm applied to your entire hair
but be prepared for the fact that if the chemical application damaged your
hair you would probably need to cut off the damage part.
I wish I had a better solution for you but when you are dealing with
strong chemicals there is always a danger of damage to the hair. I
would recommend that you find a specialist that has had a lot of experience
with applying all types of chemicals to different hair types. They may
have a solution I am not award of that might get your from straight to curly
with minimal damage and no cutting.
Best wishes,
Karen
Follow-up To Original Question
PS. Nicole did contact a specialist about her chemically
straightened hair. Here is the follow-up email that she sent to
me:
Dear Karen,
Hi, it's me again! Recently I wrote to you about the transition from relaxed
straight to permed curly hair. I contacted a hair specialist and she told me that it was
possible, but not a good idea, considering that my hair is fairly dry. She said although
my hair is in very good shape, this different chemical on top of another might cause my
hair to curl, but become severely dry and break off.
I would try this...but I don't want to risk breaking it off. She said something
about molding muds, that it is a thick solution that gives body and can be used to create
curls. I think Sebastian makes it.
Thanks again,
Nicole
Question
Hair That Is Biracial Black/White
Dear Karen
My daughter is almost 4 and is biracial-black/white. She has beautiful
curly hair that is fine textured and easily managed most of the time.
We live in Texas and the humidity during the summer months creates some problems.
Her hair is all one length and a bit past shoulder length when wet. The
problem is that as it dries, it begins to shrink up and get kind of puffy and by the end
of the day she has "big hair". Like most little ones, she is very active
and outside a lot. Of course this makes the problem worsen.
I love her curls and do not want to straighten her hair.....is there a product that
will safely relax the curls a little bit and allow the hair to fall better without
damaging or changing the texture?
I have looked at both ethnic and nonethnic relaxers and am afraid to try them.
Also, her hair is easily straightened with a blow dryer, but we usually air dry to
avoid damage. Thanks for any information or product suggestions.
Shelli G.
Answer
Dear Shelli,
I think it is great that you are so careful with your daughter's hair and
concerned with the chemical straighteners and the possible damage they can
do.
No matter how mild they are, or claim to be, straighteners are chemicals
and will change the structure of your daughter's hair. I would also be
concerned about using any chemicals on a child since there is no guarantee
that they would not cause her some other harm.
When it comes to summertime, I would suggest that you use a good
moisturizing shampoo and conditioner (ARTec's
Smoothing shampoo, Aveda
Shampure, Aveda Cherry Almond Bark) on your
daughter's hair. The softer that her hair is kept, the better
that is will resist outside moisture which causes your daughter to have
"big hair".
Then apply a good anti-frizz leave -in product to your
daughters towel-dried hair and then pull it back into a soft ponytail or pin
it up in a little bun for her. This will allow her hair to "air
dry" and avoid blow dryer damage and contain it from becoming "too
puffy".
Ouidad Recommends
Here is what Ouidad,
of Ouidad Salon recommends if you want to blow dry or diffuse your
daughter's hair. "How to style it like a pro: Apply styling lotion to
wet hair, separate layers as you go. Let hair sit for 10 minutes, allowing
curls to resume their shape. Then, carefully diffuse dry hair without
touching or scrunching to avoid frizz." - Ouidad, Ouidad Salon, NYC.
Ouidad
makes several products designed specifically for controlling curly hair like
your daughter's. Her Tress
F/X (#90409) product is designed specifically to lock an inner
memory within hair for superior styling hold.
The F/X product contains special proteins and vitamin B5 which give curly
hair extra manageability and shine. If you decide to blow-dry, it also
protects from the damaging effects of the dryer. You can use it on wet
or dry hair and it is reasonably priced at $8.00 for 8 oz.
You will probably have to experiment with the different "anti-fizz
products" to find the one that works best for your daughter. I
have also had good reports on the ARTec Smoothing
serum which is designed to work on both air and blow dried hair.
You are also correct about the damage that constant use of blow dryers
can do. The heat from the dryers will dry out the hair
shaft. so it is best to use the hair dryers or blow dryers as little
as possible.
Best wishes,
Karen
Question
Natural Curly Hair Out Of Control
Dear Karen
I have a major, MAJOR problem. I have natural curly (very curly) hair.
I am male and have only been able to use female perms to bring it somewhat under control.
Recently I gave up and cut it (approximately 4 inches off) and put in blonde
highlights. That seemed to satisfy me for awhile, but not I want long straight hair
again.
To tell you the lengths I have gone, I have pulled perms through my hair as per my
stylist's recommendation, brushed by hair straight back with gel and Climatress ( a heavy
conditioner) then when it dried brushed it out, and when I got it a good length blew dry
it straight with Climatress.
But that never seemed to last. Please could you recommend something,
ANYTHING!? I have been told it will never go straight, but with the methods above
seemed to get slight results. Thanks for any and all help.
Michael W.
Answer
Dear Michael,
You are correct, your hair, without any intervention on your part, will
always be curly. Sometimes hair will change texture due to
chemotherapy, the use of heavy medications or age. However, this is
rare. Almost everyone keeps the same hair texture that they are born
with throughout their lifetime. Sometimes gray hair will turn normally
straight hair curly or wavy. It is rare for gray hair to change from
curly to straight.
When it comes to your curly hair, you have two options. You can
accept it the way that it is and find styles that you feel comfortable with
OR you can straighten it.
When it comes to straightening curly hair you can do it on a day by day
basis using products designed to minimize or remove curl. However, not
all straightening products work on all types of hair. Some people get
great results with KMS Flat out while others report no noticeable
difference. You seem to have good results with Climatress, so that
would seem to be a good straightening product for you to use on a regular
basis.
You also have the option to have chemical straightening done to your
hair. If you would like to learn more details about chemical
straightening please refer to my recent article:
Chemical Hair
Straightening Faqs.
There are both pros and cons to having your hair chemically
straightened. The chemicals used in straightening hair involves a
process where the basic structure of overly curly or wavy hair is changed
into a straight form.
This change in the structure lasts until the roots of your hair start to
grow out. The roots will still be curly and will require routine
"touchups" to maintain consistent straightness to your hair.
The chemicals used to straighten hair are very strong. If your hair
is damaged or weak, you could sustain some post straightening damage to your
hair. It is not advisable to combine a chemical straightening process
with any other chemical procedures like hair coloring or perming. The
chemicals do affect the cortex of the hair and too many chemicals applied to
the hair during a short peered of time can cause it to stretch, break or
become very brittle.
I believe everyone should do what they feel is best for their hair.
I don't recommend for or against chemical straightening. I think that
choice should be left to every individual. However, I do
strongly advise that ANY type of chemical process that is applied to the
hair be done by a professional with experience in that procedure.
I also recommend that you take some time and understand the process and
how much post-straightening care you will need to take with your hair.
Once hair has been altered with checmials it requires consistent use of good
conditioning shampoos and related products.
Chemicals tend to dry the hair somewhat. Therefore, to protect the
hair from breaking or splitting, a good moisturizing shampoo and conditioner
should be used as much as possible. A routine of applying deep conditioners
1-2x a week would also be a good practice.
It is also wise to ask other people about their experiences with hair
straightening. This will help you understand what to expect from the
process.
Best wishes with your hair.
Karen
Question
Ouidad's Products For Curly Hair
Hi Karen,
I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy checking out your site. I surfed on
after checking out
Ouidad's
site a while back and have been visiting ever since.
While I am a big fan of Ouidad's shampoo and conditioner, I am always on the hunt
for new styling products and am always open to trying whatever I can get my hands on. I
remember a while back reading about a product called Phytodefrisant by Phytologie, I
believe (possibly at Hairboutique?) but I can't seem to find any more information about
it.
I've also checked out a few online beauty stores and haven't had much luck finding
anwhere that sells Phytologie products. Any info you could provide would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks! Susan
Answer
Dear Susan,
Thank you for your compliments about the site. Yes, you probably
read the Phytodefrisant review here at the Hair Boutique. We have a
hair care
product review
section that includes a review on the
Phytodefrisant
product. Nichole Carrillo is the guest reviewer of the Phytodefrisant
product and she found that it did a great job on her naturally curly hair
while she was in her "straight hair mood". She found the
product at Nordstroms's in Dallas (they will ship it) as well at Neiman
Marcus and the Beverly Hills Beauty Supply store.
For more details about Phyto call 1-866-467-4249.
The the entire Phyto line is available here at
HairBoutique.com in the Marketplace. My favorite Phyto
products include
Phyto #7 and
Phyto #9 leave in conditioning cremes.
I personally found my first batch of Phyto when I was in NYC the summer
of 1998.
Best wishes,
Karen
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