Ask Karen - June 2004

My hair is terribly damaged. Well, I have chemically straightened my hair before but I used a children's relaxer which I was told is very mild. It worked really well but now (I don't know if this is because of the chemical relaxing) i have so many problems:

1- My hair is now like a V shape because the ends are a lot thinner than the roots. There is also a difference in texture, the ends are straight but extremely dry and there are a lot of long split ends while the roots are thick and very curly but are not very dry.

2- I also suffer from the greasy type of dandruff which I think was caused by product build-up. My scalp is very itchy and oily. I scratched my head once and blood came out.

3- The hair next to my face and forehead is extremely dry and brittle and looks like split ends. It is also extremely frizzy.

I don't know what to do. Some people advised me to use the children's relaxer again but do you think I should?

And if not, then what can I do to improve my hair, especially since I'm moving from a very hot and dry climate to a cold one for the Holidays.

I am very sorry to hear about the problems you are currently experiencing with your hair and scalp.

It appears, from your description, that your primary hair issues center around extremely dry, brittle, frizzy hair that is plagued with tons of split ends along with greasy dandruff and a sensitive, inflamed, itchy scalp that may bleed when scratched.

Is your current problems specifically caused by the relaxer you used on your strands? While the relaxer is certainly suspect as the primary culprit, there are many other related factors that may be at play. As an example, you mention product buildup as a potential cause of your dandruff and scalp issues. You also mention that you have curly roots. Naturally curly hair is more fragile than any other type of hair and more at risk for chemical damage.

Although you don't mention use of heat styling tools such as flat irons or blow dryers, these also can contribute to long term hair damage. Hair color or highlighting added to hair that is already chemically straightened, permed or relaxed is another ingredient for serious long term hair damage.

Indeed, many abusive hair habits from use of chemicals, color, harsh hair care products and hot styling tools, over time can lead to hair damage ranging from a mild destruction of the hair's natural luster and shine to full blown hair breakage, severe split ends and brittleness.

Because of the very serious problems you are currently experiencing I would strongly recommend that you turn to hair care experts that can professional diagnose your various problems and recommend corrective programs.

1. Abstain From Hair Chemicals
Put all thoughts of using any other chemicals out of your mind for at least six months or until you hair has been completely restored.

Adding a relaxing treatment at this time is asking for even more serious problems. Even though you have been advised to use more relaxing treatments, keep in mind that to do so would put your already damaged hair at risk for serious hair breakage and even hair loss.

If your curly re-growth makes dealing with your hair an impossible situation, find a hairdresser who is an expert at relaxing treatments. Make an appointment for a consultation and discuss the possibility of carefully applied spot relaxing applications to help minimize your unruly strands.

Keep in mind that the hairdresser may advise you to wait before you do any additional relaxing. If that is the case, listen carefully.

2. Have The Damage Trimmed Off
Since you mention that your hair is much thinner at the ends with long split ends, it appears that your hair's medulla or the inner core of you hair is damaged. Your only recourse at this point is to have as much as the damage removed as possible and start fresh.

Even superstar Madonna has had to submit split, fried hair to the scissors when they her strands could not be saved.

While you can use a variety of hair care products to help fill in the cuticle rips and tears to make your hair look a little better, it will only be a temporary respite from the frizz and dryness.

3. Treat Your Scalp
Consult a dermatologist or similar hair expert that specializes in scalp problems to get a clear reading on the actual health of your scalp. You may discover that your scalp is temporarily stressed due to chemical and product abuse. Or you may be advised of hidden causes that need to be treated medically.

Regardless of the outcome, keep in mind that your scalp acts as the foundation of your hair's roots. If you don't pay serious attention to your scalp now, you may find that additional hair problems manifest down the road.

Follow any scalp or dandruff treatment advise that the dermatologist of chosen expert provides.

4. Soothe Remaining Hair
Once you have had damaged cuticles removed, addressed your scalp and dandruff concerns, focus on soothing your strands.

Keep in mind that some products designed to address greasy dandruff problems are drying, which would not be recommended for use on the rest of your currently dry, frizzy tresses. If you are advised to use specific hair care products for your scalp or dandruff, you may need to layer your treatments to deal with the strands that extend from the top of your ear lobes down to the ends.

Select products specifically designed to increase hair shaft moisture. Use shampoos that advertise "moisturizing" like Phytojoba or Phytonectar or similar. Even better, during the initial hair recovery stages, you may wish to dilute the shampoo 1 part to 3 parts warm water and swish gently from your roots to ends.

Consider using only one application of the diluted shampoo, especially while your hair is regaining its natural strength and resilence.

4. Play It Cool
Avoid steaming hot baths or showers if the water will make contact with your hair. The hotter the water, the more it can dry out your hair and skin. Shampoo in cool or cold water, always finish with a cool or cold rinse and let hair air dry, when possible.

5. Air Dry
Since heat from blow dryers, irons and hot curlers can suck the life out of your hair, let your hair air dry, at least until it shows signs of new life.

If you must blow dry, be sure to first blot hair with a microfiber towel to remove excess moisture. Apply a good heat protectant or leave-in conditioner like Phyto 7 or 9. Use the blow dryer on the slowest speed, lowest heat, possible. Even better, if you can blow dry on a cool or cold setting, this will be the least damaging.

6. Pamper & Protect
Adjust your priorities and focus on pampering and protect your fragile strands as if they were a newborn baby. Hair, unlike cats, doesn't have 9 lives. We have to protect the hair we have and treat it with complete respect.

Schedule regular at-home or salon deep conditioning treatments for your hair that ranges from the top of your ears down to the ends. Select products like Phytokarite that were specifically designed to help soften and re-moisturize chemically damaged cuticles.

Avoid taking your hair out into the sun without the appropriate sunscreen hair care products. Whenever possible, wear a cover-up. Why tempt fate by exposing your strands to the damage of the sun.

Eat well, get plenty of rest, drink 8-10 glasses of water a day and take vitamins and supplements that support hair damage recovery.

7. Be Patient & Persevere
Hair damage happens over an extended time. Likewise, it can take many months for abused hair to completely recover.

Please remember that there are no miracle cures. Take your time and do some research and address each condition carefully.

Ultimately you have to ask yourself if you want to continue to pour a lot of money into your hair to temporarily make it look better or you want to start over with shorter strands and work on growing some healthy hair that is chemical free.

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