Chemical Hair Relaxers:
Myths & Magic |
| Karen Marie Shelton - Copyright - All
Rights Reserved |
| Revised Date: 10/12/09 |
Introduction
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The Hair
Benders Int'l
Chattanooga, Tennessee
Makeup: Darin Wright |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
Whether done professionally or in the privacy of your
own home, chemical hair relaxing can magically alter the
basic structure of naturally wavy or curly hair into a
new straighter form.
It is important to note that the treatments known as Japanese
hair straightening (Yuko, Liscio, etc.,) are not chemical relaxers.
Instead they are known as chemical straighteners.
The difference between chemical hair straighteners and chemical
hair relaxers (Phytospecific,
Rusk, Dark & Lovely) is that straigheners will result in stick straight strands and relaxers will
soften and relax.
Chemical straighteners are must stronger than relaxers and can be
very harsh and damaging. Depending on the hair type, texture,
condition and prior chemical use, some hair should be chemically
relaxed instead of straightened.
Curly Hair Pride
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Aveda
LV |
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Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
Some hair consumers with naturally curly hair would
never ever think of either chemically straightening or
relaxing their hair. While they might temporarily
straighten their hair with
styling products,
brushes,
blow dryers and
hot irons,
some people with curly hair pride
frown upon using chemicals to alter their natural
ringlets.
This is not the case with all naturally curly blessed people.
Some prefer to eliminate their natural texture with chemical
relaxers because they are much less damaged than chemical
straightening.
Relaxer Kits
There are two types of relaxers which include:
Sodium hydroxide
Ammonium thioglycolate
Sodium Hydroxide
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The Hair
Benders Int'l
Chattanooga, Tennessee
Makeup: Darin Wright |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
Sodium hydroxide relaxers, which are considered to be
caustic relaxers, are designed to soften and swell the
hair's fibers. Hair experts consider sodium
hydroxide to be more like a hair straightener than a
relaxer.
As the solution penetrates into the cortex of the hair, the
cross-bonds (sulfur and hydrogen) are broken. The action of
the comb, the brush or the hands in smoothing the hair and
distributing the chemical straightens the softened hair.
Manufacturers vary the sodium hydroxide content of the solution
from 5% to 10% and the pH factor between 10 and 14.
In general, the more sodium hydroxide used and the higher the pH,
the quicker the chemical reaction will take place on the hair, and
the greater the danger will be of hair damage.
Because of the high alkaline content of sodium hydroxide, great
care must be taken in its use.
Ammonium Thioglycolate
Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical compound made up of ammonia
and thioglycolate acid. It is the main active ingredient in
both chemical hair relaxers and chemical perms.
Although ammonium thioglycolate which is also referred to as a "thio"
is less drastic in its action than sodium hydroxide, it soften and
relaxes overly curly hair in somewhat the same manner.
Relaxer Kits
Most
relaxer kits, whether sold only to professionals or to hair
consumers, contain the following items:
1. Chemical hair relaxer
2. Neutralizer
3. Petroleum Cream Protective Base
Note: Top rated hair relaxer kits to try -
Phytospecific Phytorelaxer #1 and
Phytospecific Phytorelaxer #2
The petroleum cream is used as a protective base to protect the
scalp during chemical relaxing process.
Neutralizer
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Aveda
LV |
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Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
The neutralizer also is called a stabilizer or
fixative. The neutralizer stops the action of any
chemical relaxer that may accidentally remain in the
hair after rinsing. Even with complete rinsing, it
is possible that some relaxer may still be present.
The neutralizer for a thio type relaxer reforms the cysteine
(sulfur) cross-bonds in their new position and re-hardens the hair.
Base Versus No Base Formulas
When using sodium hydroxide, there are two types of formulas,
base and no base. The base formula is a petroleum cream that
is designed to protect the client's skin and scalp during the sodium
hydroxide chemical straightening process.
This protective base also is important during a chemical
straightening touch-up. It's applied to protect hair that has
been previously straightened, to prevent over-processing and
hair breakage.
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The Brown
Aveda Institute
Mentor, Ohio
Stylist: Ashley Allen
Brown |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
Petroleum cream has a lighter consistency than petroleum jelly
and is formulated to melt at body temperature.
The melting process ensures complete protective coverage of the
scalp and other areas with a thin, oily coating. This helps to
prevent burning and/or irritation of the scalp and skim.
Previously treated hair should be protected with a heavy
moisturizing cream conditioner during the straightening process.
No base relaxers are also available. These relaxers have
the same chemical reaction on the hair, although usually the
reaction is milder.
The procedure for the application of a "no base" relaxer is the
same as for a regular relaxer except that the base cream is not
applied. It is advisable to use a protective cream around the
hairline and over the ears.
Chemical Hair Relaxing Steps
The neutralizer also is called a stabilizer or fixative.
The neutralizer stops the action of any chemical relaxer that may
accidentally remain in the hair after rinsing. Even with
complete rinsing, it is possible that some relaxer may still be
present.
1. A chemical relaxer is applied. The hair begins to
soften so that the chemical can penetrate to loose and relax the
natural curl.
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Aveda
LV |
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Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
2. As soon as the hair has been correctly
process, the chemical relaxer is completely rinse out
with warm water followed by a shampoo neutralizer or a
prescribed shampoo with neutralizer.
3. Depending on the client's needs the conditioner may be
part of a series of hair treatments, or it may be applied to the
hair before or after the relaxing treatment.
Extremely curly hair that has been damaged from heat appliances
or other chemicals must be re-conditioned before a relaxer service
is performed.
Hair treated with lighteners or metallic dyes must not be given a
chemical hair relaxer because it might cause excessive damage or
breakage.
Recommended Strength Of Relaxer
The
strength of the relaxer is determined by the strand test.
The following guidelines can help in determining which strength
relaxer to use for the test.
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Aveda
Las Vegas |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
1. Fine, tinted, or lightened hair - Use mild
relaxer.
Relaxers to try:
Radical AntiCurl - Resistant Formula #1 or
Phytospecific Phytorelaxer #1 available at
HairBoutique.com
2. Normal, medium-textured virgin hair - Use
regular relaxer.
Relaxer to try:
Radical AntiCurl - Resistant Formula #2 or
Phytospecific Phytorelaxer #1 available at
HairBoutique.com
3. Coarse, virgin hair - use strong, super relaxer
or for resistant strands.
Relaxer to try:
Radical AntiCurl - Resistant Formula #3 or
Phytospecific Phytorelaxer #2 available at
HairBoutique.com
Rusk AntiCurl Relaxers do not contain sodium hydroxide. As
a result it will not get hair stick straight. It will however
relax it, defriz it and soften it.
Regular relaxers usually don't last long and just damage the
hair.
Scalp Examination
It is very important to always inspect the scalp carefully for
any scratches, eruptions or abrasions before applying a chemical
relaxer. To obtain a clearer view of the scalp, part the hair
into 1/2" sections. Hair parting may be done with the index
and middle fingers or with the handle of a rat-tail comb.
In either case, you must exercise great care not to scratch the
scalp. Such scratches may become seriously infected or
seriously aggravated by the chemicals in the relaxer.
Lye Versus No Lye Hair Relaxers
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Aveda
Las Vegas |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
The alkaline based relaxer was discovered in the
1800s in the United States when African Americans who
sought to straighten their hair discovered that lye
based formulations worked.
Proline, the manufacturers of
Dark and Lovely claim to have invented the modern day relaxer in
1971. Their alkaline relaxer consists of lye, potash lye and
lime mixed with mineral oils and petroleum jelly.
Relaxers containing no-lye are based upon calcium hydroxide.
No-lye relaxers are popular with Caucasions but not work as well for
African American textures or hair that is extremely curly or nappy.
Hair Relaxer Myths
Hair relaxers have cycled in popularity throughout the years.
As their use has grown, hair myths have popped up.
Listed below are some of the most common myths and
misinformation:
Curls Will Come Back Before Root Regrowth
Some people believe with Rusk or PhytoRelaxer that the curls
eventually come back. Depending on who you talk to, if applied
correctly, the relaxers will permanently block the return of curls,
except with root regrowth.
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|
Aveda
Las Vegas |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
The reason that the manufacturers warn against
leaving the relaxer on for more than 20 minutes is to
prevent less experienced hairdressers or consumers from
overprocessing and burning hair.
Depending on hair type, texture and condition, some hair will
process in just 20 minutes while others require 40 or even 60
minutes.
There is a risk in testing long application beyond the
recommended minutes in the instructions. If you decide to push
the envelope, work with an experienced hairdresser who can apply the
relaxer and then watch your hair closely as it processes to
determine the perfect processing time for your hair.
It is not recommended that you push the envelope at home.
Relaxers are much less expensive than chemical straighteners or
thermal reconditioning treatments. Why not pay the few extra
dollars, at least initially until you understand the product, to
make sure your hair is protected.
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|
The Brown
Aveda Institute
Mentor, Ohio
Stylist: Samantha Albenone
&
Lydia DiCello
Brown |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
Proper Application
Hairdressers and consumers are sometimes confused about proper
application of the relaxer products. It is very important to
make sure that none of the product ever touches the scalp or any
part of the face, neck or skin. This can cause burns or
irritation.
If the product touches the scalp, it can also damage the hair
bulb and impact future hair growth. In rare cases it can also
cause temporary or permanent hair loss challenges.
Use Only High Quality Tools
Once hair has been chemically relaxed it is more fragile and has
a higher risk of damage. Only use the highest quality brushes
from Mason Pearson, Kent or Conair.
Avoid cheap combs and opt
for high quality Kent, Conair, wood or bone combs. Poor
quality brushes or combs will destroy the hair shaft by ripping away
the scales with rough edges or ridges.
Deep conditioning treatments should be performed weekly on all
chemically relaxed hair to build back strength and prevent hair from
feeling like straw.
When done properly relaxed hair can be straight, shiny and soft.
Select Hair Relaxers According To Hair Type
Rusk relaxers and Phytospecific Relaxer #1 work best for hair
that is Caucasian, naturally wavy or curly. Hair that is
African American, nappy or kinky will require the Phytospecific
Relaxer #2. Dark & Lovely is also designed for use on African
American hair.
More Hair Relaxer Facts
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|
The Brown
Aveda Institute
Mentor, Ohio
Stylist: Hallie Wedge
2007 |
|
ABC/Bob D'Amico - All rights
reserved. |
Hair relaxers can be used on any length of hair from
super short to long. Some people use spot relaxers
to deal with stubborn cowlicks or whorls. They may
also use spot relaxers on uneven growth patterns.
Hair relaxers can also be used on just the roots, just the ends
or throughout the entire head of hair.
It works on hair of all races and is used by men and women.
African American men often use "kits" as they call them to help them
achieve softer strands that can be styled into 360 Wave styles as
well as for braiding.
Hair relaxers work for hair that is combo meaning one part curly,
one part wavy and one part straight. Depending on how long the
relaxer is allowed to process the results will rank from stick
straight to subtle waves with soft bend. In general it leaves
healthy hair looking shiny and healthy.
Curls and natural texture always come back when the roots grow
back.
Relaxer treatments can be applied to 100% human hair extensions.
They can not be applied to synthetic extensions.
Depending on chemical relaxing preferences some people prefer
Rusk, some Phyto, some Dark and Lovely and other prefer other
product options.
Chemically relaxed hair can be easily altered to add back curls
and waves or straightened even further through hot irons and
rollers.
Hair that has been highlighted may or may not be able to handle a
very mild relaxer like Rusk. This should only be attempted
after a series of patch tests to make sure that hair will not break
off.
It will relax hair enough to make waves more manageable in humid
weather.
|
|
|
The Brown
Aveda Institute
Mentor, Ohio
Stylist: Ashley Allen
Brown |
|
Tom Carson
All Rights Reserved |
Summary
Check out a list of all
hair relaxer kits available at HairBoutique.com in
the
Marketplace.
The Rusk Anti-Curl will not get curly hair straight.
However, what you need to use depends on what the hair texture is
and what your desired results are. If the hair is only slightly wavy
and you don't need to get the hair bone straight, then the Rusk
would probably be ok.
If the hair has any kind of curl pattern or a frizz problem, any
thermal reconditioning product would be a better solution.
By the way, the ingredients in the Rusk thioglycolate. There are
formulas for virgin, colored, or highlighted hair and you just need
to use the appropriate solution.
Most of the Japanese straighteners (i.e. thermal reconditioners
are not meant to be used on Afro-American hair because they will not
get the hair straight).
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Original
Publication Date: 03/01/1998 - Revised Date:
01/01/08
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